chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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Yes,there is…or perhaps I should say there are (many). Add ceresine wax at 1.0% , that will firm this up enough to stop the cracking. To aid in lubricity and stop the sticking: without knowing your “oils” identity I’d add an alkanolamide or polyglyceryl ester and either should do the trick there.
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@Margaret You are correct in that “it depends” assumption. You can be relatively confident the true concentration is somewhere between the lower and middle of the stated range. Since nobody actually checks or verifies the values given, drafting SDS lends itself a lot of literary freedom. In the early days of drafting composition statements for export docs I used to place ranges very close to truth, then I quickly realized there is zero analytical work being done over in the E.U. to determine accuracy of my statement; not enough chemists on this planet to carry that out. A classic “no duh!” moment. Now I put down nearly any number that comes to mind as long as they add up to 100.
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@OB_Ben Those crystals must be sodium chloride since it has a lower saturation point in water than has magnesium sulfate heptahydrate. Neither solvate in ethanol well so reduce the NaCl and ethanol and keep this spray out of your eyes. Consider also adding a smidge of propylene glycol to this. Retards the flash point and keeps the plumbing free in that dipstick.
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For the record, glyceryl monostearate S.E. is an o/w emulsifier whereas GMS plain is not. So much for that. I’ll take a guess and accuse xanthan gum-glycerin for the sticky agency, unless the dimethicone used was a MW greater than 10,000 CST.
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@Graillotion Aloha right back at you brother. Virtually all shelf 3.0% peroxides have stabilizers and likely these are simply chelants. I do not know where you could capture unadulterated H2O2. These days you cannot even commercially purchase more than 35% without a special permit in the USA (Shaghayegh must be elsewhere) ever since Homeland Security got involved.
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@WADYA I agree, nothing “soapy” about this formula. This is eyelash setting gel plain & simple. DELETE the sorbitol and problem nearly solved. Be sure to have enough propylene glycol in there to plasticize the PVP or this could flake off into someone’s eyes. As for drying time I suspect they have SDA in there but don’t list it. Can you smell ethanol? If not then they put a LOT of sorbitol and carbomer in there to displace water and make a sticky mess.
Also make sure your product liability insurance is paid up before market launch.
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@farah.k There are several corrections to be made here. One is that much PVP is destabilizing and retarding this product’s gelation. Next thing is all that polyol is reducing the gelling temperature. Reduce by 50 - 75% all the above and see what happens.
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No difference
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There are so many anomalies here I don’t know where to start. (Galactomyces Filtrate? Say wha’??) Just briefly, you need a salt to stabilize, you need to increase the total water content and you need to switch your ethoxylated silane emulsifier to a more alkyl modified one -and use less of it - since you have organic lipids involved. Go in peace and do no harm.
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This all depends on the solid-state UV absorbers you are using. All have different solubilities and you will need to experiment. I’ll add that some are soluble in their liquid state partners. I.e. avobenzone is soluble in octicrylene and homosalate.
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Add PEG-150 Distearate at 65C after your base surfactants are dispersed completely. Then always add that pearlizer during the cool-down phase. If it were me, I’d just add plain EGDS at same time/temp as the PEG-150 and forego the Texapon mix.
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You are compounding 10 Volume and 20 Volume developers for oxidative hair dyes here, right? Been here and done that and as @PhilGeis alludes that 50% peroxide is nasty to work with. The suppliers do not mention stabilizers they are using, just as they don’t for hypochlorite technical grades. Don’t ask me why - trade secrets maybe? Since you are simply diluting stabilizers are not the issue but your water and mixing gear certainly are. Deionization must be thorough and then you will need to add acid stable chelants like EDTA (Na2) or disodium pentetate to this. Yes, phosphoric acid (also a chelant) is recommended and peroxide is more stable at pH 5.0 or so. Finally, if you are not familiar with equipment passivation techniques, read up on it. This is essential to success and absolutely necessary if stainless steel is involved. Good luck and try not to blow anything up.
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@evchem2 hydroxypropyl guar is really great to work with, more formulators should, and it is good you mentioned a visual decrease in viscosity. The one thing I can share is many guars are not long-term stable with glycols including glycerin. I recall needing to use “glycol compatible” HP guar in the past. There may be other materials in your formulations that break the saccharide chain down to size, the cause of viscosity drop. E.g. Guars are stable with electrolytes until the point they are not. Here’s a hack if you can stand it: add a little sodium borate solution and watch it cross-link into a gummy - just like that.
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@Joejoe there are many filtering tools you can purchase and apply here. For viscous products (“non watery”?) the standard 316SS canister filter with 100 - 200micron SS frit should do. The polyester insert may be needed depending on the schmutz involved. For a cheap hack (again I should be charging money for this) assuming you are using 2.0″ Tygon hose or SS pipe with standard sanitary couplings attached, then purchase a 2.0 inch Buna N gasket having a 10 - 30 mesh SS frit, then get organza fabric from the fabric store, which is nylon and chemically inert. Stretch a piece of organza across the frit on the input side of the frit then clamp into place securely. Depending on the organza you can filter out 1 - 5micron particles. Pump slowly to avoid too much back pressure and check/clear the fabric overlay frequently during transfer.
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Notably absent is a preservative, but that is a subject for another day. Depending on the nature of those “Esters” (cetyl palmitate perhaps?) there does not appear to be anything “waxy” in there other than the 1.50% cetearyl alcohol in the BTMS-25, which is not much at all.
Are you sure you were not trippin’ at the time? ????
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Have you tried ChatGPT?
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Disperse directly into water at room temperature while mixing with a baffled turbine (Lightnin’) mixer or a paddle blade while heating. The thixotropic shear thinning nature of xanthan and other polysaccharide gums is such that if you only apply shear in the locus of the mixer blade, the surrounding solution never gets mixing motion so you need to move the entire solution to fully hydrate. This holds true for nearly all gum resins and polymers. Honestly in over 35 years I never understood nor have I needed that “pre-mix in oils or glycol” approach. Gums need water and shear to hydrate. Period.
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@Nasha52 lamellar liquid crystal formation is no marketing trick and depends more on formulation constituents than it does mixer configuration. The physical chemistry of MLE (LLC we call it) self-assembly is way too complex to get into here. The one process input that you should know about is the cooling gradient: slow cool with low shear. In the meantime: experiment in the lab and have fun doing it.
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Adding to @ketchito here, all correct, but here is a bit of tribal knowledge to consider here (I just have to begin charging money for this): your viscosity problem is not related to GMS or Stearac at all but hydroxyethylcellulose. Disodium EDTA will impede hydration-gelation of HEC, especially the cationic type. I found this out one day when I added EDTA to water first then dispersed Ucare Polymer JR-30M. After two hours the polymer still had not hydrated and I knew that should have only taken 20 minutes. I retried only this time leaving out the EDTA until the cationic HEC was fully hydrated and no problem. Try altering order of addition and see what happens. You do need to add a small amount of alkali to fully hydrate HEC depending on the grade and I don’t see that mentioned in Part A - or anywhere else. How does stearic acid make any sense without TEA, AMP or TrisAmino to saponify with? Could be part of the problem too.
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I will add that the primary polymer film-former Artistoflex is at a very low level especially considering that is only 30% active if memory serves. Also, glycerin works against alcohol evaporation so DEL that. Finally, Amphisol K is a very powerful emulsifier and 4.0% is twice what you need especially if reducing those oils as @Marsupilami suggests. Being a powerful surfactant, it also contributes to that “smudge factor” you are trying to omit.
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That is the synonym for disodium cocoamphodipropionate which is supplied as a 40% aqueous solution by many surfactant manufacturers including Stepan, Solvay, Colonial. It is one of the best amphoteric surfactant-hydrotropes out there. As for propylene glycol: yes it is needed here but not that much. Reduce by half. PG makes all that glycerin less sticky-tacky but does little for curl activation, the goal of this spritz. Without PG this would have too much tackiness. You also may want to consider increasing the PEG-12 dimethicone much higher, at least to 1.0%. Likewise the PEG-75 lanolin.
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@natiyo123 You asked and I will inform, though you may not have the coin but here goes: a steam-jacketed 316 SS kettle with full side-sweep agitator and offset turbine mixer, flush-fit valve. A low-pressure steam generator (15 - 25 psi) with a PLC-controlled steam valve solenoid and J-type thermocouple for temperature control. Transfer - when ready - through a recirculating, insulated 316 or 304 SS sanitary 2.0 inch pipeline traced with an element heat tape to a shrouded multi-head positive displacement filler having a top-mount plenum for product recirculation, preferably with vertically mounted pistons, then feeding into a reciprocating cooling tunnel with minimum 1 meter headspace for air make-up efficiency with the 15,000 btu air cooler. I’ve manufactured millions of hot-fill deodorants, antiperspirants and pomades this way with few production problems. Oh yeah…almost forgot: you will need a few capable employees on the payroll to do this too.
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@trujfj As I have stated soooo many times before in this blogosphere: friends, don’t let friends place glycerin into surfactant cleansing products because it does so many terrible things and then all rinses off into the sewer to do more unpleasant things down there. DEL the glycerin and you will no longer need xanthan gum or salt. That 2.0% essential oil isn’t doing you any good either. Are you philosophically opposed to using fragrances? Doesn’t seem to be a problem using other synthetics, right? To answer your questions though: #1) no potential risk to users other than they won’t like it very much with all that essential oil. decrease that and increase the Polyquaternium-7 (10% active) to provide better wet comb. #2) Glucosides are not good foamers compared to most surfactants, increase the betaine or SCI instead.
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Two insights to share here @MariaSibon . The polyglyceride ester is competing with polysorbate 20 here, so reduce the polysorbate 20 to 1.0% and increase the PG-3 diisostearate up to 2.0 - 3.0% and see what happens (not sure what polysorbate-20 is doing there in first place but I’ll leave that to you.) The other is that cocoa butter and coconut oil is the sole crystallization problem here, mango butter is actually composed chiefly of hydrogenated vegetable oil which is more stable. The only other aspect - a stretch here - is that the 6.0% or more of essential oils is “solvent stripping” beeswax of its unsaturated fatty acids which are then precipitating. That’s all I got.