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water in silicone serum
Hi guys! It’s me the rookie again. Recently I’m quite interesting in formulating water-in-silicone serum. I’ve searched google online, but there’s limited info in formulating in this kind of formulation. Where can I study more about formulating water-in-silicone based?
Last time I’ve tried formulating a serum, but it always appeared to be slightly ‘separated’. There’s a thin layer of oil above and the appearance looks “fluffy” with air bubbles trapped on top.
Here’s glance of my formulation:
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.02%
Niacinamide 2%
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate 0.5%
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 5%
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate 10%
RO Water 37%
Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 16%
PEG-10 Dimethicone 5%
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 11%
Vit E 0.5%
Sunflower Seed Oil 2%
Dimethicone 3%
Isohexadecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 3%
Retinol 0.3%
Fragrance 0.15%
I’ve try to slightly modified the ratio of PEG-10 Dimethicone and the % of oil/water phase, but the serum became separated and very watery. Any help will be appreciated! Thanks in advanced! 😌
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4 Replies
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There are so many anomalies here I don’t know where to start. (Galactomyces Filtrate? Say wha’??) Just briefly, you need a salt to stabilize, you need to increase the total water content and you need to switch your ethoxylated silane emulsifier to a more alkyl modified one -and use less of it - since you have organic lipids involved. Go in peace and do no harm.
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Hi Matt, as I mentioned I’m still a rookie in cosmetics. 🤓 I’m adding in the galactomyces ferment filtrate cz it helps brightening dull skin and enhancing moisture barrier. Btw appreciated your kind advice! and one more question, when I increased the total water content, the viscosity increase and the sensory become ‘heavier’. Is there any way to avoid this problem as I prefer lower viscosity serum.
p/s: Will definitely go in peace after successfully formulating a stable formulation 😜
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From a fellow-rookie: maybe an idea to remove the actives and stabilise the base-formula first. Saves you money and helps to isolate the problem.
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You can try with silicon 2 % w/w in the above said compsoiton along with polyoxyl 40 hydrogenated castor oil 1 % w/w. and the rate mixing & heat and order addition also important to stabilize the formulation.
if not works use hydrophilic silicon 2 % (e.g., DC 193) with polyoxyl 40 hydrogenated castor oil 1 % w/w.
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