Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Experimenting with various natural thickeners, leaving out mimosa wax

  • Experimenting with various natural thickeners, leaving out mimosa wax

    Posted by hatasamatter on December 4, 2023 at 1:30 pm

    Hi! I’m an aspiring formulator and I’d like to experiment using different natural thickeners (e.g. Astragalus gummifer gum, Guar gum, Carrageenan, Sodium Alginates, Cellulose Gum, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate). My starting formula contains Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera (Mimosa Wax) and I was wondering if I could leave this ingredient out and instead include my other thickeners in comparable percentage levels in Phase A/A1. Do you think this could work or do you see any issues? Thank you so much in advance!

    This is the initial formula:

    Phase A:

    Water Aqua — ad 100%

    Phase A1:

    Glycerin — 3.00%

    Xanthan Gum — 0.50%

    Phase B:

    Glyceryl Stearate Citrate — 3.00%

    Cetearyl Alcohol — 2.50%

    Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil — 20.90%

    Mimosa Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera — 2.00%

    Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil — 0.10%

    Phase C:

    Preservative — q.s.


    Add phase A1 to A at 55 °C and mix until completely dissolved. Heat phase A/A1 and B separately to 75–80 °C. Add phase B to A/A1 under stirring. Homogenize for 90 seconds. Cool under moderate stirring. Add phase C below 40 °C. Cool further to RT and fill into suitable packaging.

    • This discussion was modified 6 months, 3 weeks ago by  hatasamatter. Reason: formatting
    hatasamatter replied 5 months, 2 weeks ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • lotions4lyfe

    December 5, 2023 at 10:01 am

    You could also add those ingredients directly into the oil phase

  • chemicalmatt

    December 12, 2023 at 10:32 am

    You are going to use an additional rheology gum resin with the xanthan gum already established? OR, are you to substitute each for the xanthan? I don’t think your wax will affect these at all, so leave it there if you wish. The rest appears sound to me. As for resin dispersion, I always disperse directly into as much water - and only water - as you can muster and mix/heat until fully hydrated. That Step A1 is totally unnecessary in my opinion. In the case of Veegum (Mg Al silicate) you’ll need to add to water only and apply a lot of shear for a long time before adding anything else. You won’t know how completely you hydrated that Veegum until you begin adding the oil phase.

    • hatasamatter

      January 7, 2024 at 7:25 pm

      Thank you so much for your answer and terribly sorry for the late reply! I was indeed going to replace the Xanthan Gum with other rheology modifiers. Thank you again!

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