Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Insights on formulation and silicone-free oil for hair

  • Insights on formulation and silicone-free oil for hair

    Posted by Pavalosk on November 21, 2023 at 4:00 pm

    Dear,

    There is a brand that has its oils free from D5 and D4, yet they still have a viscosity similar to silicone. Any guesses on how they achieve this? Perhaps intense agitation, like making mayonnaise?

    Below is the list of ingredients.

    Oenocarpus Bataua Fruit Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Glycerin (Vegetable Derived), Isoamyl Cocoate, Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Fragrance/Parfum, Eugenol, Limonene, Linalool.

    Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil | Isoamyl Cocoate | Copaifera Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin/Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil | Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment/Glycerin/Hydroxyethylcellulose | Octyldodecanol / Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides / Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract/Tocopheryl Acetate | Fragrance/Parfum, Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin, Hexyl cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool | Titanium Dioxide, Mica, CI 77510.

    kot replied 3 months ago 4 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    November 22, 2023 at 9:29 am

    @Pavalosk this brand is selling a bogus INCI label to the buying public. Anyone who states “vegetable derived” glycerin is either a moron or a scoundrel - my opinion only - and should be forced to devour their “vegetable derived” product while I watch. If you perceived a silky sensorial effect using it, they likely have a lot more isoamyl cocoate and coco caprylate caprate [they miscue this as “hydrogenated coco-glycerides”] than they claim and much less of everything else. Those two esters grant a light D5-similar sensation when used at concentration. There is evidence of morons at work there also: why place a preservative into an anhydrous product, I ask?

    • fareloz

      Member
      November 22, 2023 at 9:40 am

      If you ask about Benzyl Salicylate then it is a fragrance additive I think

  • Pavalosk

    Member
    November 22, 2023 at 2:50 pm

    When it comes to Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, it is part of the active ingredient SPHINGOCERYLTM VEG LS 9948, marketed by BASF, and Benzyl Salicylate is certainly part of the fragrance. I still wonder how they achieve a thick texture.

  • Pavalosk

    Member
    November 22, 2023 at 2:52 pm

    I tried to emulsify a portion of glycerin with Isoamyl Cocoate, and as I expected, they separate and do not become uniform.

  • kot

    Member
    November 23, 2023 at 11:31 am

    Which of these is your question about, you have two ingredient lists?

    1) Oenocarpus Bataua Fruit Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Glycerin (Vegetable Derived), Isoamyl Cocoate, Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Fragrance/Parfum, Eugenol, Limonene, Linalool.

    2) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil | Isoamyl Cocoate | Copaifera Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin/Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil | Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment/Glycerin/Hydroxyethylcellulose | Octyldodecanol / Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides / Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract/Tocopheryl Acetate | Fragrance/Parfum, Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin, Hexyl cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool | Titanium Dioxide, Mica, CI 77510.

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