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  • Zoya

    Member
    August 16, 2023 at 1:53 pm in reply to: Difference between foundation and concealer (Makeup)

    Hi,

    As a consumer I would choose concealer for full coverage and foundation for a more pleasant wear during the day with medium coverage so it does make sense to me that concealer has higher percentage of TiO2.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 16, 2023 at 1:09 am in reply to: Duplicating a formula - need advice

    I wonder if it could be from free charges available in the surfactant solution - has anyone experienced something like this? First, I tried to slightly increase the amount of nonionic surfactant to see if it makes any difference - for now it seems a little better but I still need more time to test it properly.

    Sometimes I feel this ‘itchiness’, especially when working with amphoteric or anionic materials, that’s why I’m suspecting the charges in this case too. A balanced surfactant solution wouldn’t cause this feelig - am I right? I’m still quite a beginner in blending sole surfactants together so any advice would be appreciated, thank you very much. @Perry44 @MarkBroussard @Paprik @chemicalmatt @ketchito @Bill_Toge @fareloz if you have some time please help me solve this mystery 🙂

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 10:51 pm in reply to: SCI powder in lower pH formulation (4.5)

    Hi Paprik.

    Thank you so much for your reply. I was thinking to use it as the anionic surfactant for a slightly acidic cleanser, as I have successfully made stable and functioning liquid gel cleansers with it - but in those cases the pH was 6. I have never tried to bring pH down as I was worried of hydrolisation and I planned to use a glutamate for the lower pH cleanser because they tend to ‘work’ between pH 4-6. Unfortunately I don’t have much luck with glutamates lately so I considered changing the anionic surfactant to SCI. Seems a bad idea now. Still don’t know what to do, I have very few options to use as surfactants.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 1:59 pm in reply to: Leavein conditioner

    Ah and for a hair product you better use less oil to make it less greasy and appropriate for a leave-in hair product, so cut the oils down to 05-2* the amount of the emulsifier and use more viscosity builder and waxy emulsifiers for the desired viscosity. Also, you can use liquid polyquat up to 5% (the active is usually under 10% of the solution).

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 1:49 pm in reply to: Leavein conditioner

    Hi,

    You can find starter formulas on the internet. As a guide, you can use this:

    Emulsifier: 2-6% (depends on the type of the emulsifier, end consistency, quantity of the oil phase, etc) and 0.5-1.5% co-emulsifier

    Viscosity builders (fatty Alcohols, etc): 0-4% as needed (depends on the desired end viscosity)

    Shea butter: 1-3%

    Oils: approx. 4* the quantity of the emulsifier(s)

    Glicerin:2-10

    Gums/polyquat: 0.05-0.3%

    Tocopherol: 0.05-0.5% (depends on the formulation)

    Preservative (!): as proposed (depends on the preservative and on other circumstances, i.e on which skin area you use the product, packaging, etc.)

    You can start with an avarage of the usage rates I mentioned above and build the product up from there. Always change one thing at a time and make your observations after every change, that way you can learn how those little changes affect the whole product.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 12:57 pm in reply to: How to incorporate Ceramide in anhydrous oil formula (not emulsion)?

    Hi,

    I have never used ceramides before so apologies for guessing, but as I can recall, working with ceramides oil phase needs to be heated to 90C. Also, the majority of oils have to be good solvents for ceramides, like C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate or Caprylic/capric triglyceride.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 9:46 am in reply to: Hair gel formula starts to smell rancid after 3 weeks

    Hi,

    You need a stronger preservative system for your formula and also a solubilizer. The ‘smell’ may come from Carrageenan gum, you can make a knock-out test and leave out Carrageenan.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 2:28 am in reply to: Zinc oxide for a sunblock formulation

    Hi,

    I just found this old post and I would like to know what homogenizer could you propose for dispersing pigments and ZnO in a w/o emulsion?

    For Zno, I’m currently using a pre-dispersed version (Zno in Caprylic/capric triglyceride) and I also use pigments to cover the whitening effect of ZnO. For ‘home-experimenting’, I’m using a simple homogenizer. The emulsion seems stable (but still under examination) and homogenous, however after applying it several days in a row, I experience comedogenicity. I’m wondering, could it be because the pigments (or Zno) haven’t been fully dispersed in the formula (or is it natural with this high level of Zno - around 20%)?

    Thanks.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 2:01 am in reply to: PEG-6 Alternatives

    Hi,

    PEG-6 can function as an emollient, refatting agent, solubilizer or wetting agent - what function would you like to replace and what are your criteriums (does it have to be natural, etc.)? Without knowing theese, it would be difficult to answer the question.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 14, 2023 at 7:10 am in reply to: NIACINAMIDE

    Hi,

    Could you provide any more details? (at least full inci, final pH). How does the separation look?

    Also, have you already done a knock-out experiment? Is the ‘base’ stable without NA?

    • This reply was modified 9 months, 1 week ago by  Zoya.
  • Zoya

    Member
    August 12, 2023 at 2:04 am in reply to: Microbiology test failed twice

    Hi Cdsgames,

    You can do a microbiology check on the raw materials and also, you can examine a version without HA, however I doubt that HA caused the problem.

    Sodium levulinate/sodium anisate - in my experience - is not a strong preservative, however, I often see products on the market using this. The reason, I guess, it might work in very simple formulations with low pH and massive amount of boosters -also with appropriate packaging- for limited time period, but in more complex systems it doesn’t do well on it’s own, I wouldn’t recommend using it alone. Also, formulations work differently from eachother - if a preservative works well in one formulation, it does not mean, it’s approppriate for another, you have to consider a lot of things when choosing the right one (incompatibilities, type of the emulsion, pH, boosters, packaging, etc.) I have to admit, I’m not an expert on this topic, but have a bit of experience. In your place I would consider changing the preservative system or using additional preservative(s) for consumer safety.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 4, 2023 at 7:34 am in reply to: Oil / Beeswax balm cracking on top surface.

    Hi Symbiosis,

    I think it might happen because the top surface cools down quicker than other parts of your balm.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 4, 2023 at 7:29 am in reply to: Duping a Niacinamide formula, few questions

    Hi,

    I agree on this with farleoz. I have read a study in the past - on science direct as I can recall - in which they examined different concentrations of niacinamide, it’s effectiveness and possible side-effects. The conclusion was that above 5% the sebum reducing efficacy does not improve but side effects and sensitation happen more frequently. Personally I don’t think that the marketing trend of using really high percentages (much above their efficacy) of actives is sustainable - at least I hope it won’t last for long.

    If you only have water phase in your product, glycerin (and also higher content of HA) can feel tacky, it depends on what percentages you use and whith wich ingredients. In theese cases I often use glycerin in combination with propanediol or pentylene glycol - theese two not only help in improving the skin feel but to boost the preservative system. You can also use lactic-acid-sodium lactate buffer or other ingredients to improve skin feel and have other benefits (keep in mind, with nicainamide, your best option is to have a final pH of 5.5-6 to improve it’s stability).

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 4, 2023 at 3:42 am in reply to: viscosity of anhydrous oil/balm system

    Hi Yang. I’m not sure how much viscosity differs in the two batches - if it’s a small difference and you have higher butter content, could it be that in the smaller batch more air is ‘trapped’ in the system (bigger surface area introduced with air) - less viscous product? Was rpm kept the same with both batches? Butters tend to trap more air with higher rpm. The time of cooling down may also have a slight effect on the end viscosity of butter containing Products in my experience.

  • Zoya

    Member
    March 24, 2023 at 1:03 pm in reply to: Looking for dry & non-greasy emollient - any recommendations?

    Hi Grapefruit.

    I often use a combination of emollients to end up with the right skin feel. Coco caprylate and alkyl benzoate are really fine for a fast absorbing “dry” skin feel but they are very light-weight emollients, so you may use them in combination with a less light weight emollient, like Caprylic/capric triglyceride to have a great final consistency and after feel. I would use Isoamyl Laurate in formulations for the drier skin types, as it tends to leave an oily after feel - its really silky, but not as fast absorbing as you may require.

  • Zoya

    Member
    March 24, 2023 at 12:30 pm in reply to: Using two anionics in the same formula….Why?

    Hi Graillotion. Glutamates are often used in combination with sulfates (at a lower concentration) to improve gentleness- they tend to reduce the absorption of sulfates into the skin. They might also help in stabilizing the foam or modifying the foam’s characteristics.

    • Zoya

      Member
      March 24, 2023 at 12:36 pm in reply to: Using two anionics in the same formula….Why?

      Sorry, Im realizing you are not talking about surfactant systems, but improving emulsion stability with anionic co-emulsifiers. In this case it might improve emulsion stability but I’m not sure exactly how.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 10:05 am in reply to: Hair gel formula starts to smell rancid after 3 weeks

    Hi KatieW.

    You can try cationic guar gum instead of Carrageenan, it’s quite beneficial for the hair (make sure you order the cationic one). For preservation I would completely change or at least add Benzyl Alcohol or Pehentyl Alcohol for the above system (they both smell nice, so double-win) - but here we have more experienced chemists than me, I’m sure they can help you with the preservation. For solubilizer, you have many options, if you would like to stick with the ‘more natural’ ingredients, you should try Oramix CG 110 (3:1 solubilizer : oil but different oils need different ratio so you have to play with it) or Polysugamulse D9. Otherwise, PEG-s can easily do the job.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 1, 2023 at 1:27 am in reply to: Gellyfying oil(s) - ingredients

    Hi fareloz,

    Thank you very much for your answer. I have actually worked with sucrose laurate in the past and I liked the results, so it’s a great idea, I give it a try in this formula too.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 1, 2023 at 1:25 am in reply to: Gellyfying oil(s) - ingredients

    Hi Mark,

    Yes, for application benefits. It’s easier and more comfortable to use a slightly thicker formula on face than in liquid form.

  • Zoya

    Member
    March 29, 2023 at 11:53 am in reply to: Natural hand wash formulation

    Dear Reza.

    Thank you for your valuable response. I’m actually planning to incorporate a plant extract and waiting for my cationic guar gum to upgrade the skin feel. Still playing around with the percentages but I finally feel like I’m getting somewhere good with it. 🙂

  • Zoya

    Member
    March 25, 2023 at 6:23 am in reply to: Natural hand wash formulation

    Oh and unfortunatelly I’m also not allowed to use SLES , SLS, SCS.

  • Zoya

    Member
    March 25, 2023 at 6:21 am in reply to: Natural hand wash formulation

    Dear Abdullah.

    Thank you for your answer. 🙂 I use sorbic Acid at 0.09% and I’ve also did knock out tests for the preservative system, it seems that it doesn’t cause the problem. The percentages above are the weight percentages, the total ASM is low - around 7.7. It foams and cleanses well, but not that nice skin feel I would prefer (I’m not surprised because of the low surfactant level). Personally I don’t reallly like Products with High nonionic concentration because they seem to be too degreasing and causing skin dryness. I would better use high anionic or amphoteric with lower amounts of nonionics but in this formulation I can’t use CAPB above 10 weight percentage (because it’s syntetchical matter) and I also don’t have great experiences with higher glutamate concentration (it seems to be more irritating on my skin and also gives an aesthetically not too pleasing yellowis color to the final product).

  • Zoya

    Member
    March 25, 2023 at 1:59 am in reply to: Natural hand wash formulation

    Sorry, I correct: naturally derived. The aim here is to keep the product’s pH close to the skin’s natural pH, this is why I can’t go with oil saponification. The raw materials I use are naturally derived with a few synthetic part. since the aim for the product is to be Cosmos approved, it must be at least 98% naturally derived. This is a new approach I have to implement in surfactant systems.

  • Zoya

    Member
    March 25, 2023 at 1:46 am in reply to: Natural hand wash formulation

    I knew I ‘d better stick with the good old sanitizer… 😉

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