Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating How to incorporate Ceramide in anhydrous oil formula (not emulsion)?

  • How to incorporate Ceramide in anhydrous oil formula (not emulsion)?

    Posted by kivangel on August 15, 2023 at 12:38 pm

    On the market, I see anhydrous, transparent face oils with ceramides (simple oil formulas without emulsifiers). But when I try to incorporate ceramide in anhydrous, transparent, oil base, with heating to recommended temperature, I get haziness and/or fine settling at the bottom within 1-2 days. I tried using Dekasperse III (INCI: Ceramide NP, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate), which has emulsifier that supplier claims prevents ceramide recrystallization. Distributor says it can be used in anhydrous, oil-based formulas. But when adding it to the oil base and heating to recommended 70C, even at very low level of 0.1% (equals to 0.01% of Ceramide NP) there is still very fine particle settling. Base formula is just liquid oils & esters (Jojoba Oil or Plum Oil with Isoamyl Laurate or Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride). So how do the products on the market do it? What am I missing? Are they sprinkling ceramides in such tiny amounts that they are not affecting final formula appearance / stability?

    Here is one example of transparent face oil with Ceramide - Drunk Elephant Maretinol Oil IL: Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Soybean Oil, Retinol, Tocopherol, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP.

    • This discussion was modified 9 months, 1 week ago by  kivangel.
    Zoya replied 9 months, 1 week ago 2 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • Zoya

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 12:57 pm

    Hi,

    I have never used ceramides before so apologies for guessing, but as I can recall, working with ceramides oil phase needs to be heated to 90C. Also, the majority of oils have to be good solvents for ceramides, like C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate or Caprylic/capric triglyceride.

    • kivangel

      Member
      August 15, 2023 at 1:07 pm

      Thank you for your feedback @zoya. I am heating to the temperature recommended by the supplier. For Dekasperse III distributor recommended 60-70C (I heated to 75C). I tried base formula with 50% CCT (still got the same result). Although Drunk Elephant formula contains only two plant oils (Marula and Soybean), so I am confused.

      • Zoya

        Member
        August 17, 2023 at 2:03 am

        You may try adding some more polar oils/emollients like castor oil, avocado oil, cocoglycerides, triisostearin, etc.

        • kivangel

          Member
          August 18, 2023 at 9:32 pm

          Thanks again @Zoya ! I just don’t get how some anhydrous, transparent oils I see on the market have ceramides & only plant oils in their IL & how were they able to incorporate that.

  • Zoya

    Member
    August 19, 2023 at 1:16 am

    Did you try rising the temperature to around 90 C, than adding the ceramide and keeping the temperature there until fully dissolved? Method can be crucial in this case, I would give it a try.

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