Zoya
Forum Replies Created
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Thank you! Around what percentage propylene Glycol should work better? 50-60%? Could I replace it with water or do I need something else?
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You might need to adjust the percentages of your ingredients. If one formulation works well with one viscosity modifier, it doesn’t mean that the exact same formulation would work as well with another viscosity modifier. High input of Aristoflex, Glycerin and Xylitol can also leave a sticky feeling on the sikn, so I would start with a knock-out test, cut down on the inputs of theese ingredients, one by one and see how it works. Sometimes only a small change can have a big impact on the overall feeling. If nothing helps, you can change the ingredients or add low amount of sodium Pca, sodium lactate-Lactic acid, etc. to help reducing the tacky feeling.
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Sepimax Zen, HMW Hyaluronic Acid, Xanthan (there exist good grades which don’t leave a sticky feeling on the skin), Solagum AX (combination of xanthan and acacia for better skin feel), Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, to mention a few. 🙂 Sepimax Zen is synthetic, has really great texture and skin feel and can handle low pH and even small concentartion of electrolytes. The others fits well into ‘natural’ formulations, also have great skin feel, they make different textured products than Sepimax. Try them out and see how you like them! 🙂
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Hello!
HMW HA, Xanthan Gum (try Xanthan Soft, it doesn’t feel sticky at all) and Sepimax Zen would be your best friends, all of them can handle low pH.
Have a nice day!
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Azelaic acid is poorly soluble in water and with the formula above I’m suspecting it is the one you see crystallizing. As recommended above, make a knock out test, one formula with azelaic acid, without niacinamide, and the other with niacinamide, without azelaic acid. Then, you will be able to tell which one causes the problem. With azelaic acid you probably have to use potent solvents to dissolve it in the water phase or incorporate it in a higher oil-phase containing, more robust emulsion.
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Hello.
As Phil mentioned, check your country’s regulation and take your other ingredients under consideration, as they may reduce the efficacy of your product . Otherwise, this may be useful: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7132458/
but there are plenty more articles on this topic.
Higher concentrations usually sting when applied to a wound, but you probably need higher content of ethanol for proper efficacy, if this is the only desinfectant in your formula.
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Hello.
I’m not completely sure about it, but maybe you are thinking of positive displacement pipettes. ?
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It looks fine to me. Yes, polymerics can be on the pricier side and yes, decreasing them in the emulsion may reduce the stability of the emulsion, but you have to test it, it’s difficult to answer without testing it properly. Sepimax zen has a fresh sensation on the skin, while sepinov emt is ‘more greasy’ in high concentration, in my experience. Reducing them also affects product viscosity, so you should also take this under consideration. Have you also tested it for SPF?
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Hi,
If I understand well, nothing else changed in your base formulation which doesn’t stick, neither raw materials nor suplliers or percentages, so you are sure, what you feel is caused by HA.
In that case: Sodium hyaluronate mol.weight < 10 kDa is less sticky, than higher mol.weights (10-50 kDa, 800-1500 kDa,…). If the CoA doesn’t tell what molecular weight yours is, you better ask the supplier. The smaller mol.weight HA usually pricier. You can change the mol. weight of HA or adjust the percentages of other components in the base for better skinfeel.
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Hi Lab,
You may find this useful:
Good luck! 🙂
ulprospector.com
Settle Down: Factors that Influence Pigment Settling and Stability
Introduction -The first steps in the pigment dispersion process are wetting and separation of the pigment. However, if the pigment dispersion is not properly st
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You can always try to play around with percentages but without changing raw materials your formula probably won’t function well. As ketchito said, you don’t have enough lubrication without adding esters (or oils). I would switch up at least a part of cetyl alcohol to a waxy ester like cetyl palmitate and also add a little ester in liquid form to reduce rigidity even more (and have Conditioning effect). Cetyl alcohol in 5% gives too much rigidity to your formula and can also lead to stability issues.
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Did you try rising the temperature to around 90 C, than adding the ceramide and keeping the temperature there until fully dissolved? Method can be crucial in this case, I would give it a try.
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What does your oil phase contain?
You may use an additional high HLB emulsifier (I never trust only one) and you can also use a gum or polymer to help in stabilization.
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Thank you gordof! I was thinking of something similar. 🙂
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Oh and also leave out vitamin E, even with high oil concentrations you probably won’t need that much - especially in a shampoo.
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I don’t think fancy moisturizing ingredients are needed in a shampoo because all of them will be rinsed off. You better go with polyquat or cationic guar which ‘stick to the hair’ and have that Conditioning effect - save some money by leaving out well-branded moisturizing actives. BTMs will destabilise the product - and you also have cationic guar so it’s useless in here. If you want some pearlizing effect add a hint of Glycol distearate. You may consider adding some anionic surfactant to make it more gentle to the hair and scalp and have some nice bubbles. Leave out the oils or keep 0.1-0.5 % for marketing.
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Didn’t you experience something uncommon during stability testing?
Have you made a sample without perfume? It can also cause cloudiness if some incompatibilities happen between perfume components and surfactant systems.
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Hello,
I’m here to do an update (it may be helpful for others): reducing the scg seems to solve the problem. I’m still not finished yet but I finally see where I’m going.
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Hi,
At specialchem I find some info ‘faster’ than at Prospector (ie. percentage of active - I don’t have to download a PDF)- but Prospector may have more info about the raw material. I use both of them, depends on the circumstances.
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Thanks for the tip graillotion, I check it out! 🙂
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Thank you so much, ozgirl. 🙂 I actually ordered from them a few times, but the shipping cost is a bit high to me, that’s why I’m searching for possible alternatives (all I could find in EU yet is 10 kg MOQ which is too much for me)
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Thank you Chemicalmatt. 🙂
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Thank you, fareloz 🙂
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You may try adding some more polar oils/emollients like castor oil, avocado oil, cocoglycerides, triisostearin, etc.
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Hi ketchito,
Thanks for the idea, I order some and play with it. I’m also experimenting with glutamates right now, they can tolerate lower pHs as well.
