Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Duplicating a formula - need advice

  • Duplicating a formula - need advice

    Posted by Zoya on August 15, 2023 at 4:06 pm


    Lately I’m experimenting with plant based surfactants. I would like to duplicate a simple face wash formula with the following INCI : Aqua, Sucrose, Coco-Betaine, glycerin, coco glucoside, disodium cocoyl glutamate, xanthan gum, sodium Chloride, sodium cocoyl glutamate, arginin, propanediol, citric Acid, sodium benzoate, salicylic acid.

    I don’t have the exact same ingredients but I do have almost identifical ones: CAPB,decyl glucoside,sodium cocoyl glutamate,xanthan gum,glycerin,preservative,citric acid… I guess they use disodium cocoyl glutamate in liquid form as a blend with NaCl and propanediol (otherwise I don’t see a reason to use NaCl in this system as SCG does not thicken by adding salt). It’s Cosmos organic and 94% natural origin of total. I also bought the product to have a closer comparison. I’ve tested multiple formulas from which the best I had contained 4.5 Active CAPB with 2.3 Active decyl and 1.6 Active glutamate. Unfortunatelly I’m still not fully satisfied: the product quite similar to the original one regarding skin feel but I m experience a little but very unpleasant itchiness after using mine which I have never experienced with using the sample.

    Could anyone guess what causes this slight irritation/itchiness and how could I eliminate it? PH is fine (around 5.5), i also tested the preservative with knock-out, but it’s fine as well. I’m planning to do some more knock-outs with the surfactants as soon as I’m heading back to lab. I would really appreciate any advice or idea. I grew 10 years older in the last months playing around with surfactants…


    Priya1033 replied 1 week, 6 days ago 2 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Zoya

    August 16, 2023 at 1:09 am

    I wonder if it could be from free charges available in the surfactant solution - has anyone experienced something like this? First, I tried to slightly increase the amount of nonionic surfactant to see if it makes any difference - for now it seems a little better but I still need more time to test it properly.

    Sometimes I feel this ‘itchiness’, especially when working with amphoteric or anionic materials, that’s why I’m suspecting the charges in this case too. A balanced surfactant solution wouldn’t cause this feelig - am I right? I’m still quite a beginner in blending sole surfactants together so any advice would be appreciated, thank you very much. @Perry44 @MarkBroussard @Paprik @chemicalmatt @ketchito @Bill_Toge @fareloz if you have some time please help me solve this mystery 🙂

  • Zoya

    August 17, 2023 at 1:24 am


    I’m here to do an update (it may be helpful for others): reducing the scg seems to solve the problem. I’m still not finished yet but I finally see where I’m going.

  • Priya1033

    April 11, 2024 at 1:50 pm

    Hi Zoya, were you able to find the reason of irritation. I am currently formulating a body wash with just glucosides like Coco - 12%, decyl -1%, caprylyl -2. It’s burning my skin

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