Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Critic my sunscreen formula

  • Critic my sunscreen formula

    Posted by SunilHiwarkat1965 on October 8, 2023 at 10:49 am

    Dear Members,

    I have formulated spf-30 sunscreen cream for my client. The cream may go on production floor by next month. The texture, feel, viscosity, spreadibility is good at this moment. I invite your suggestions/ comments to know is there any scope of improvisation?

    Here is the formula-

    Sunscreen SPF-30 cream formula for 100 gm.

    A)Water— qs

    EDTA— 0.10%

    Glycerine— 2.5%

    B) BHT— 0.15%

    Cetyl alcohol— 2%

    Glyceryl stearate & peg 100 stearate— 2.5%

    DHHB— 2% ( UV filter)

    Sepinov EMT-10— 1.5%

    Sepimax Zen— 0.40%

    EHMC— 6% ( UV filter)

    C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate— 3%

    Dicaprylyl carbonate— 7%

    Dimethicone— 1.35%

    C) Polymethylsilsesquioxane— 2%

    D) MBBT— 6% ( UV filter)

    Euxyl k-510— 0.15%

    Fragrance— 0.60%

    Thanks in advance!!!

    SunilHiwarkat1965 replied 8 months, 2 weeks ago 4 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • Perry44

    October 9, 2023 at 7:11 am

    It looks like a reasonable formula to me. What kind of feedback were you looking for? Without having samples available there is not much advice people can give. Does it remain stable? Do consumers like the feel? To me, there is nothing obvious about the formula that is lacking just based on the ingredient list.

  • SunilHiwarkat1965

    October 9, 2023 at 9:10 am

    Thanks @Perry44 for the comments. Agreed; without samples it is difficult to share feedback. The batch is stable & consumers do like the feel.

    However I had a doubt about the combination of conventional emulsifier @ 2.5%, & polymeric emulsifiers @ 1.5 +0.40 %. Am I not increasing the cost of the formula ? Shall I reduce polymeric emulsifiers to bellow 1% ? Will decreasing polymerics destabilize the emulsion during shelf life ?

    Thank you @Perry44 once again.

    • Perry44

      October 9, 2023 at 1:43 pm

      You might be increasing the price by including both polymeric and standard emulsifiers. However, if a formula is stable you generally don’t want to mess with it. Also, if they ask you for a reduced cost version, then you can experiment to get the most optimized formulas. Until then, I’d just leave it alone.

  • Zoya

    October 9, 2023 at 12:31 pm

    It looks fine to me. Yes, polymerics can be on the pricier side and yes, decreasing them in the emulsion may reduce the stability of the emulsion, but you have to test it, it’s difficult to answer without testing it properly. Sepimax zen has a fresh sensation on the skin, while sepinov emt is ‘more greasy’ in high concentration, in my experience. Reducing them also affects product viscosity, so you should also take this under consideration. Have you also tested it for SPF?

  • SunilHiwarkat1965

    October 9, 2023 at 2:22 pm

    @Perry44, yes.Exactly pin pointed. This was my dilemma.

    I was not in mood to disturb the formula & you confirmed it. Thank you so much.

  • SunilHiwarkat1965

    October 9, 2023 at 2:35 pm

    @zoya, Thank you very much for your suggestions. The basic idea to include sepinov EMT-10 was it’s non -tixotropic behavior much needed in sunscreen formulations & sepimax zen for good pick up.

    Yes. You are correct. Reducing their % may affect the viscosity.

    I have not yet tested for spf. But surely I will get it done prior to commercial production. However this spf is predicted by BASF simulator; & so far in my experience the actual spf is always more than the simulator predicted spf.

    Thank you once again.

  • ketchito

    October 9, 2023 at 11:25 pm

    I love MBBT but I would never use it alone, mainly because of price. I use it as a stabilizer (EHMC thanks you for that) and SPF booster. Hopefuly you’ll have enough UVA coverage with only 2% of your UVA filter. Where are you planning on selling this product? Last I remember, MBBT wasn’t approved in the USA as UV filter. Also, there’s a UVB/UVA ratio now with the New las you have to fulfill.

  • SunilHiwarkat1965

    October 10, 2023 at 1:14 am

    @ketchito Yes I too love MBBT, mainly because it can directly be added to the emulsion during cool down & protect from UVA & UVB both.

    DHHB,though added @2% covers UVA 1 & UVA 2 & in combination, the system provides broad spectrum Protection.

    You are correct. MBBT approval is pending in USA under Time & Extend application. But since this product is for Indian domestic market I have no worries.

    This combination has UVA/ UVB ratio of 0.8 & UVA☆☆☆☆ along with PA++ ratings as per simulator prediction.

    Thanks for your concerns @ketchito

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