Zoya
Forum Replies Created
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Hi Symbiosis,
I think it might happen because the top surface cools down quicker than other parts of your balm.
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Hi,
I agree on this with farleoz. I have read a study in the past - on science direct as I can recall - in which they examined different concentrations of niacinamide, it’s effectiveness and possible side-effects. The conclusion was that above 5% the sebum reducing efficacy does not improve but side effects and sensitation happen more frequently. Personally I don’t think that the marketing trend of using really high percentages (much above their efficacy) of actives is sustainable - at least I hope it won’t last for long.
If you only have water phase in your product, glycerin (and also higher content of HA) can feel tacky, it depends on what percentages you use and whith wich ingredients. In theese cases I often use glycerin in combination with propanediol or pentylene glycol - theese two not only help in improving the skin feel but to boost the preservative system. You can also use lactic-acid-sodium lactate buffer or other ingredients to improve skin feel and have other benefits (keep in mind, with nicainamide, your best option is to have a final pH of 5.5-6 to improve it’s stability).
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Hi Yang. I’m not sure how much viscosity differs in the two batches - if it’s a small difference and you have higher butter content, could it be that in the smaller batch more air is ‘trapped’ in the system (bigger surface area introduced with air) - less viscous product? Was rpm kept the same with both batches? Butters tend to trap more air with higher rpm. The time of cooling down may also have a slight effect on the end viscosity of butter containing Products in my experience.
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Zoya
MemberMarch 24, 2023 at 1:03 pm in reply to: Looking for dry & non-greasy emollient - any recommendations?Hi Grapefruit.
I often use a combination of emollients to end up with the right skin feel. Coco caprylate and alkyl benzoate are really fine for a fast absorbing “dry” skin feel but they are very light-weight emollients, so you may use them in combination with a less light weight emollient, like Caprylic/capric triglyceride to have a great final consistency and after feel. I would use Isoamyl Laurate in formulations for the drier skin types, as it tends to leave an oily after feel - its really silky, but not as fast absorbing as you may require.
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Hi Graillotion. Glutamates are often used in combination with sulfates (at a lower concentration) to improve gentleness- they tend to reduce the absorption of sulfates into the skin. They might also help in stabilizing the foam or modifying the foam’s characteristics.
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Sorry, Im realizing you are not talking about surfactant systems, but improving emulsion stability with anionic co-emulsifiers. In this case it might improve emulsion stability but I’m not sure exactly how.
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Hi fareloz,
Thank you very much for your answer. I have actually worked with sucrose laurate in the past and I liked the results, so it’s a great idea, I give it a try in this formula too.
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Hi Mark,
Yes, for application benefits. It’s easier and more comfortable to use a slightly thicker formula on face than in liquid form.
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Dear Reza.
Thank you for your valuable response. I’m actually planning to incorporate a plant extract and waiting for my cationic guar gum to upgrade the skin feel. Still playing around with the percentages but I finally feel like I’m getting somewhere good with it. 🙂
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Oh and unfortunatelly I’m also not allowed to use SLES , SLS, SCS.
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Dear Abdullah.
Thank you for your answer. 🙂 I use sorbic Acid at 0.09% and I’ve also did knock out tests for the preservative system, it seems that it doesn’t cause the problem. The percentages above are the weight percentages, the total ASM is low - around 7.7. It foams and cleanses well, but not that nice skin feel I would prefer (I’m not surprised because of the low surfactant level). Personally I don’t reallly like Products with High nonionic concentration because they seem to be too degreasing and causing skin dryness. I would better use high anionic or amphoteric with lower amounts of nonionics but in this formulation I can’t use CAPB above 10 weight percentage (because it’s syntetchical matter) and I also don’t have great experiences with higher glutamate concentration (it seems to be more irritating on my skin and also gives an aesthetically not too pleasing yellowis color to the final product).
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Sorry, I correct: naturally derived. The aim here is to keep the product’s pH close to the skin’s natural pH, this is why I can’t go with oil saponification. The raw materials I use are naturally derived with a few synthetic part. since the aim for the product is to be Cosmos approved, it must be at least 98% naturally derived. This is a new approach I have to implement in surfactant systems.
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I knew I ‘d better stick with the good old sanitizer… 😉
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Dear PhilGeis.
Sure, I’m using sorbic acid and potassium sorbate as my preservatives and have a gum (cosphaderm X soft) and glycerin to thicken the system because salt doesn’t do the trick here. 🙂
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Dear Gordof.
Thank you for your reply. Right now I’m developing a liquid body wash but I definetly try this bar soap formulation in the future, it seems really nice with its high humectants and emollients. 🙂