chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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This does not make sense: you want water resistance but water affinity at same time? Ok, let’s leave that one aside for now. @Onur is right in that you are using the components for a barely stable o/w emulsion, co-emulsifiers all, so it is not surprising you have an unstable invert system. Onur’s helpful additions will only work in a o/w emulsion system, so be advised there too. Bottom line: you need more study on invert emulsions my friend. Also, the usually coherent and always helpful @ketchito meant “slow” addition not “low” - a typo no doubt.
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You will want to add another wax builder with divergent melt point to that, like rice bran wax, castorwax, carnauba, synthetic wax (similar to ceresin but builds better); offset by cutting back the ceresin. Plus add a small amount of lipid surfactant such as lecithin or a polyglyceryl ester such as polyglcyeryl-3 diisostearate or polyglyceryl-6 oleate. Some folks have lecithin sensitivity so be aware of that.
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The preservative efficacy questions I’ll leave to @PhilGeis and @Perry44 but I can weigh in on your thermodynamic stability issue. Most microemulsions will experience a change of state around 40 - 45C, and when that happens the test flies out the window. Same holds true with w/o and w/Si invert emulsions. These are intrinsically unstable at mildly higher temps, but quite stable at RT. I’ve had microemulsions and invert emulsions stable for >8 years, but they would have disassembled at 40 - 45C.
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@sr6866 you did not include any other formulation details so this request cannot be handled with any accuracy. What other ingredients are involved here? You need not include exact concentrations either. I’ve manufactured millions of metric tons of all the alkali hair relaxer mediums over the years, even lithium hydroxide back when it was inexpensive, so it is unlikely I’ll be surprised by anything you divulge.
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Best wishes to you @Belassi and your wife on the next chapter in life. You were always a fine knowledge contributor to this blog and you will be missed.
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@Jamiemhair Never heard of “Carbomer silk” but cationic guar and anionic carbomer do not play well together ever. This is the root cause of your problem. DEL the carbomer. Then adjust the ratio of your anionic Iselux to amphoteric betaine from 13:1 (!!) to a more reasonable 2:1. Since the free NaCl in the betaine will no longer be crashing the acrylic carbomer, you should find peace and happiness soon.
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I never heard of l-arginine functioning as a styling/fixative agent, and I would be surprised to learn of it. It is used in post-chemical hair treatments to partially salt-bridge “dangling” sulfhydryls on keratin after bond breaking. The fixative trope may have been born from its use in neutralizing SPDMA when using that quat salt in hair conditioners where it makes a super high viscosity cationic emulsion. Pretty cool but an expensive way to go. Price it and you will find out.
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This almost sounds like a trick question, but here goes. The Answer: everything. Trideceth-12 is a nonionic surfactant used in the ubiquitous amodimethicone/CETAC hair conditioning-styling blend you ID’d simply as an emulsion aid/wetting agent helping it to incorporate into your formula on its own. It serves no other purpose and does not compete with BTMS at all; if anything helps it emulsify oil additions. You may add BTMS in collaboration with the Amo/CETCA/TD-12 blend Your hair will be softer in the end.
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Your addition of these Sepinov/Sepiplus acrylics is forcing this to be something it does not want to be: an o/w emulsion, thus the inversion. This would be very happy remaining w/o given your surfactant blend and oil load, but those darn acrylics…shame on them. DEL the SEPINOV and SEPIPLUS - and the xanthan while you are at it. Build viscosity and stabilize the external phase, which is lipid-based. Another glaring omission here: no polyol, needed when formulating with polyglyceryl fatty esters such as these. Throw in a little (not too much) propylene or butylene glycol, or…I hate to admit it: glycerin. I’d also consider adding a preservative as I do not see one present.
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Mike, do not know if you need Asian source, but in the USA you might contact Vermont Soap Factory http://www.vermontsoap.com They promote their house brands but also do private label at small scale, mainly sticking with Castille formulations.
vermontsoap.com
Vermont Soap | Organic Soaps, Liquid Castile, and More
Say good-bye to harmful petrochemical ingredients in your soap, and hello to natural materials. Order online from Vermont Soap!
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Is this a trick question????? Answer: everything, including critical thinking.
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If you are certain this is a w/Si invert emulsion then premix your fragrance oil into an ester carrier that is miscible with cyclomethicone, then add to your batch. There are several that work, C12-15 alkyl benzoate being most prominent.
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@Mara use a phospho-ester surfactant, most of which are compatible with IPA and water and will not create too much foam or viscosity. A solvent friendly associative polymer such as Rapidgel EZ1 would be a slam dunk, but will not mist only stream. If you wanted to transition to a gel however that would be the ideal choice. As for the sticky-tacky sensorial issue, nothing will mitigate that, not with 12.0% terpene oils inside. It will be sticky and smelly, just deal with it.
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There is only one hydrogen peroxide, none other. You do not describe the conveyance method for the peroxide, so this is a blind alley for us.
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@rizi this is attributed to the often depicted anionic/cationic incompatibility seen so many times. You have all that amino-functional conditioning material mixed in with your primary anionic isethionate. Then there are the sodium salts to add to the maelstrom. This electrolytic chaos is kicking out EGDS and fatty amides. The guar HPTC isn’t nearly enough to stabilize this either. Also, as everyone in this blog knows my M.O. well by now: WHY add all that glycerin to a shampoo???? I am astonished this foams, builds or remains stable at all.
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@Cherma The problem you describe is viscosity crash, not fragrance incompatibility. Premixing your fragrance will not resolve this. Your customer may be overwhelming the spatial stability with too much fragrance or uses one with a lot of phenoxyethanol or ethylhexylglycerin as fixatives, both which will crash viscosity if salt is the only builder. For this application you need to maintain viscosity with a polymer or gum resin rheology stabilizer. Acrylates copolymer, hydroxymethylcellulose, another cellulosic, the overused xanthan gum - even better a combination of one or more. This will allow your customer to add any fragrance at nearly any concentration without viscosity crash.
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@Kristina Do you mean inside the lid of the jar, not on the lid itself, meaning atop of it? I would have no explanation for moisture vapor atop the jar lid. Inside the jar happens whenever you cap it while still hot. This low temperature condensation may be somewhat mitigated by adding to your formula more glycol or glycerin or xylitol, sorbitol, any polyol that forms a eutectic mixture with water.
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IF this is for in vivo delivery sub-dermally you may be asking the wrong crowd. (cosmetic chemists call that “the short cut”). Having said that, do research on these delivery systems for your peptide: niosomes, liposomes (PEGylated preferred), multilamellar lipid vesicles.
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@ruru this is not an endeavour you will do on your own. Color cosmetics are more difficult than you think. Message me and I’ll point you to a consultant chemist who is a master at this (and it is NOT me). She is widely known in our sphere assuming you are in North America.
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As I usually do I agree with @ketchito : revise the ratio of ampho to anionic closer to 1:1 solid state and as I so very often shout into the formulator wilderness DO NOT PUT GLYCERIN INTO FOAMING/CLEANSING PRODUCTS!! Kills foam, viscosity, then goes right down the sewer. You are also guilty of addiction to Ultrez, and your surfactants are winning that battle. Switch to acrylates copolymer like Synthalen W600 and you’ll see a clear gel - that is once you’ve replaced that preservative that is giving you all the opacity.
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I’ll agree with @Microformulation that noviconnect has come a long way from their starter point. I can say the same for Knowde; I use it more often now and it conveys a lot of intel without having to go into supplier websites and other avenues. Covalo is quite good if you are in the E.U. or elsewhere but North America. SpecialChem is simply annoying with all those pop-ups even though it draws from the most sources. The winner: UL Prospector - for the reasons Perry and Mark state. (That is until the A.I. bots come along and order me to their Formulator Re-education Camp.)
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As @chem.ist explains: always disperse gum resins directly into room temp water first before adding any other component, then begin heating while mixing. “That’s a fact Jack.” As for your “watery” outcome, this is no surprise and you did nothing in error that I can tell. Both xanthan and tragacanth are piss-poor at thickening. A 0.50% mucilage of either will not generate more than 300 cps or so. Both gums ARE good however at contributing yield value to your formula (suspension in 3 dimensions) which is why both are primarily only used as stabilizers not thickeners.
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@Creamycreamygel That is a lot of ethoxydiglycol there (Transcutol) which combined with all the propylene glycol may well be reducing the solubility of pentoxyfylline leading to the precipitate. I do not think it can be anything else. You should not need any more than 5.0% ethoxydiglycol to work for skin permeation. You may want to consider reducing the propylene glycol down too. Less is more here.
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@DoreenSarvan that will turn out to be one mean hand soap (not “soup” right?) with those ingredients. Must have some very dirty hands there. Nonylphenol ethoxylates such as NP9 are no longer tolerated here in the USA but you will be able to clean many things with this stuff. I take it potassium “netroxide” is actually potassium hydroxide (KOH)? If so, solid state or the standard 38% solution? If it is the solid use approximately 1 part KOH (pre-dissolved and heated to 80 - 90C) to 3.25 parts coconut oil being sure to end up on the alkaline side like pH9.0. After that step is complete add the N9 then the others while cooling. Glycerine does nothing for this formula so feed that to the pigeons where you live. You will still need a preservative so I’d suggest getting some DMDMH & methylparaben or good ‘ol methylisothiazolinone. Peace.
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@Fekher Ceteareth-25 without question. It hits the sweet spot of hydrophilicity, which is significant when one considers the ETO chain length distribution curves for CT-20 and CT-30 both overlap CT-25.