chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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This is pushing the solubility limit for azelaic acid unless you raise the pH closer to neutral with a metal hydroxide. With a little more Polawax this should work. Xanthan gum will be dispersed into water first (NOT in the oil phase) then add AZA into water at temperature, adjust pH to 5.5 - 6.5, then proceed as planned and see what you get. I would add a little cetyl alcohol to mitigate the “soaping” from the PEG ester and improve stability at same time. Kudos to you for employing Germall as preservative.
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I think you need to more clearly define what exactly is “liquid carbomer”. There are many acrylate liquid rheology modifiers, most are 30% activity, and some are geared towards thickening surfactant systems. Others are not. If you are using one of the 30% acrylics suitable for your shampoo formula, then 1.0% w/w (0.30% solid) is far too short. Start with 3.50% and go from there. I would not adjust the pH below pH5.0 either. None of these build well below that pH and without the acid salt preservatives (as Perry remarked) you won’t need to.
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This should work just fine. I think you may be applying too much mixing there. Slow cool while slow mix and this should build, assuming your starting temp is > 75C. Finally, adding NaCl solution while at 25 - 35 C can build viscosity here too. A little bit o’ salt goes a long way and most formulators don’t know this works with cationic systems not just anionics.
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@ketchito is (again) on point there with DEL that propylene glycol/ADD anionic surfactant. That alone will boost viscosity and lessen the need for all that acrylic polymer. As for your Polyquat10 addition problem, disperse it into water directly 100%, then add the alkali needed to neutralize the acrylic copolymer to that mixture. Slowly add the acrylic as drop-in thickener and it will neutralize while addition goes on thereby not complexing with polyquat-10. Also, you might consider polyquat-7 or another cationic polymer with lower mass-charge.
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@KRISTIANA Tween 80 (Polysorbate 80) is good for 5 years, if not more, especially stored in a cool dark place. disregard what the SDS or TDS say.
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@Jorge Brenntag should be distributing all over the Iberian Peninsula. They feature BASF and SABO, two manufacturers of ceteareth-25.
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@Heath0o7 answer is negative. If you have amodimethicone pure then no need for the surfactants. Be sure to add a low temperature since amodimethicone is reactive.
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Check the SpG in a glass fritted density bottle at 60C or so using a water bath or microwave oven, wipe it dry quickly then weigh and record temp while doing so. Look up water density at that temp from the tables and you will have SpG. The SpG at 25C will not be significantly different as long as you reference water volume mass at same temp. I’ve used a 100ml Kimax graduate cylinder for this too. You get a value close enough to work with.
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I cannot recommend any of those thickeners, pal. Are you opposed to using alkanolamide builders or acrylic polymers? If acrylics are not in your plan use Poyquaternium-10 at 1.0% w/w for conditioning effect, with or without silicone, and keep it simple: alpha olefin sulfonate / disodium cocoamphoacetate / then the capryl glucoside or Ninol CAA (Stepan) dimethyl amide to build viscosity.
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The answer as @Onur states: silicone, silicone and more silicone. Nothing else beats it.
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@Lilith The “46%N” refers to the total nitrogen content in urea itself whose molecular weight is 60. The math: (2N * 14 aw = 28) then [28 / 60] * 100 = 46.6% This is 100% urea. The 46N grade is for the farmers to understand how much nitrogen they are putting into the soil.
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HCl would do a number on the aluminum part with lots of fumes to go with it. Fiberglass though? Only something very toxic would attack that. No comment.
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@Tyss Vous pouvez essayer d’utiliser silylated silica pour cette formule. En Englais: utiliser “heat and high shear mixing” to incorporate. This will be translucent, not 100% clear. D’accord?
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This has come up many times over the years. The 350cst dimethicone is the happy medium polymer chain length for hair and also skin care formula. It is not expensive either. However, I do agree with @ketchito on the amodimethicone addition here, perfect for color treated hair too. The blend with CETAC and trideceth-12 is the easiest with many clones available too.
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This does not make sense: you want water resistance but water affinity at same time? Ok, let’s leave that one aside for now. @Onur is right in that you are using the components for a barely stable o/w emulsion, co-emulsifiers all, so it is not surprising you have an unstable invert system. Onur’s helpful additions will only work in a o/w emulsion system, so be advised there too. Bottom line: you need more study on invert emulsions my friend. Also, the usually coherent and always helpful @ketchito meant “slow” addition not “low” - a typo no doubt.
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You will want to add another wax builder with divergent melt point to that, like rice bran wax, castorwax, carnauba, synthetic wax (similar to ceresin but builds better); offset by cutting back the ceresin. Plus add a small amount of lipid surfactant such as lecithin or a polyglyceryl ester such as polyglcyeryl-3 diisostearate or polyglyceryl-6 oleate. Some folks have lecithin sensitivity so be aware of that.
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The preservative efficacy questions I’ll leave to @PhilGeis and @Perry44 but I can weigh in on your thermodynamic stability issue. Most microemulsions will experience a change of state around 40 - 45C, and when that happens the test flies out the window. Same holds true with w/o and w/Si invert emulsions. These are intrinsically unstable at mildly higher temps, but quite stable at RT. I’ve had microemulsions and invert emulsions stable for >8 years, but they would have disassembled at 40 - 45C.
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@sr6866 you did not include any other formulation details so this request cannot be handled with any accuracy. What other ingredients are involved here? You need not include exact concentrations either. I’ve manufactured millions of metric tons of all the alkali hair relaxer mediums over the years, even lithium hydroxide back when it was inexpensive, so it is unlikely I’ll be surprised by anything you divulge.
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Best wishes to you @Belassi and your wife on the next chapter in life. You were always a fine knowledge contributor to this blog and you will be missed.
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@Jamiemhair Never heard of “Carbomer silk” but cationic guar and anionic carbomer do not play well together ever. This is the root cause of your problem. DEL the carbomer. Then adjust the ratio of your anionic Iselux to amphoteric betaine from 13:1 (!!) to a more reasonable 2:1. Since the free NaCl in the betaine will no longer be crashing the acrylic carbomer, you should find peace and happiness soon.
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I never heard of l-arginine functioning as a styling/fixative agent, and I would be surprised to learn of it. It is used in post-chemical hair treatments to partially salt-bridge “dangling” sulfhydryls on keratin after bond breaking. The fixative trope may have been born from its use in neutralizing SPDMA when using that quat salt in hair conditioners where it makes a super high viscosity cationic emulsion. Pretty cool but an expensive way to go. Price it and you will find out.
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This almost sounds like a trick question, but here goes. The Answer: everything. Trideceth-12 is a nonionic surfactant used in the ubiquitous amodimethicone/CETAC hair conditioning-styling blend you ID’d simply as an emulsion aid/wetting agent helping it to incorporate into your formula on its own. It serves no other purpose and does not compete with BTMS at all; if anything helps it emulsify oil additions. You may add BTMS in collaboration with the Amo/CETCA/TD-12 blend Your hair will be softer in the end.
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Your addition of these Sepinov/Sepiplus acrylics is forcing this to be something it does not want to be: an o/w emulsion, thus the inversion. This would be very happy remaining w/o given your surfactant blend and oil load, but those darn acrylics…shame on them. DEL the SEPINOV and SEPIPLUS - and the xanthan while you are at it. Build viscosity and stabilize the external phase, which is lipid-based. Another glaring omission here: no polyol, needed when formulating with polyglyceryl fatty esters such as these. Throw in a little (not too much) propylene or butylene glycol, or…I hate to admit it: glycerin. I’d also consider adding a preservative as I do not see one present.
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Mike, do not know if you need Asian source, but in the USA you might contact Vermont Soap Factory http://www.vermontsoap.com They promote their house brands but also do private label at small scale, mainly sticking with Castille formulations.
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@Fekher Ceteareth-25 without question. It hits the sweet spot of hydrophilicity, which is significant when one considers the ETO chain length distribution curves for CT-20 and CT-30 both overlap CT-25.