Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Advanced Questions Need Help on formulating Clear Facial Cleanser with Dense Creamy Foam

  • Need Help on formulating Clear Facial Cleanser with Dense Creamy Foam

    Posted by febrie on May 23, 2024 at 9:06 pm

    Hi,
    Need help with formulating clear facial wash with Dense and creamy final foam.
    The client also ask about low PH Cleanser, So I can’t use myristic, lauric, or else.
    Here’s my prototype:
    - CABP 8 %, Decyl Glucoside 10%, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 5%, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate 15 %. I use NaCl as thickener.
    For this prototype the foam is rich but not dense and creamy enough, I add NaCl until 2%, but the viscosity is not increase. I also use Carbopol Aqua SF-1 polymer/Acrylates Copolymer as thickener, and No, it’s not getting better.
    Please, I’m all ears with all suggestion.

    ketchito replied 4 months, 2 weeks ago 5 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    May 24, 2024 at 6:22 am

    Replace Decyl glucoside with Sodium cocoyl isethionate, and you’ll have a creamier foam and more viscosity. Also, I think your Glycinate could thicken with a lower pH.

  • evchem2

    Member
    May 24, 2024 at 8:53 am

    How low in pH are you targeting?

    • ketchito

      Member
      May 31, 2024 at 7:08 am

      Close to 4.5 or 4.0. If you don’t see an increase in viscosity, then focus more on switching from Decyl glucoside to a more salt-responsive surfactante (like SCI or a sulfonate).

  • Perry44

    Administrator
    May 24, 2024 at 8:55 am

    Glucoside based and other non-ionic surfactants do not thicken with salt. You’ll need something else like maybe a Cellulose thickener. If you have salt in your system a Carbomer thickener will not work either.

  • Zoya

    Member
    May 28, 2024 at 10:15 am

    Try adding some Lauryl Glucoside and lower the amount of decyl glucoside you use or keep your formula but use a good grade of xanthan gum instead of salt. Here’s What I would try: Drop the decyl, lower the glycinate to ~ 13%, add some SLSA (~0.5-2%), maybe increase the CAPB if needed, and may add a little extra Lauryl if needed (~1-5%). Recalculate the ASM and adjust the formula to the desired ASM.

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