[suswang8]

Somewhat relatedly…

Does anyone know of data showing how effective sodium phytate is compared with synthetic chelating agents? I know it’s “common knowledge” that it’s not as effective, but I was just curious if that had actually been proven and if it was concentration-dependent (e.g., could 0.2% sodium phytate be as effective as 0.1% tetrasodium EDTA?).

[suswang8]

This is very interesting. Where did you hear/learn of this? (Curious to see if others on Chemists Corner have had similar results…)

For what it’s worth, instructions from one of the sodium ascorbyl phosphate manufacturers recommended inclusion at 0.1%, but perhaps that’s because many formulators use SAP at a fairly high percentage (often 5%) and hence more sodium metabisulfite would be required in a preparation like that? I’m not sure.

Regardless, I did see elsewhere online that sodium metabisulfite, like all antioxidants, can itself become pro-oxidant, so perhaps less is better in this case.

[suswang8]

I am tempted to start keeping a list of products with suspect ingredient lists . . .

[suswang8]

Interestingly, I had recently looked at this product, but I find it hard to believe they are able to suspend what must be 1-2% oil using only xanthan gum and not make the product feel too tacky/sticky. https://www.ulta.com/p/golden-booster-amla-berry-vitamin-c-brightening-serum-pimprod2023210?sku=2621444

(Additionally I do wonder how potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate are enough to preserve, but I think that’s another matter.)

ulta.com

0.95 oz Golden Booster Amla Berry Vitamin C Brightening Serum - Beekman 1802 | Ulta Beauty

Free Shipping at $35. Shop 0.95 oz Golden Booster Amla Berry Vitamin C Brightening Serum Beekman 1802

[suswang8]

Thank you. Just to clarify:

For this product in particular I am working on, it is not an emulsion. It’s just a serum/toner.

[suswang8]

I think the question needs to be rephrased, but certain types of mica can do this without a glitter residue. It depends on the type and quantity. Also, you don’t have to *increase* emollients, but perhaps switch to ones that leave more of a gloss/residue? Finally, even glycerin will do this to a certain extent.

[suswang8]

I have renewed interest in sodium metabisulfite in part out of desperation, and also after reading about it on CC and after seeing it in use hereby Givaudan, perhaps because of the green tea content?

https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/829/367356/Redensyl

Additionally, as much as I don’t love this woman, I would think she went to a reputable formulator develop her skincare line. I’m semi-surprised they felt the need to include the ingredient here in her vitamin C serum given they/she very obviously got the idea from Skinceuticals, which does not use the ingredient.

ulprospector.com

Redensyl® by Givaudan Active Beauty - Personal Care & Cosmetics

Redensyl® is the newest breakthrough against hair loss and the best alternative to hair transplantation. Redensyl® is a synergistic blend of 4 molecules...

[suswang8]

I’m sure an SPF of 30 should be taken for granted, but obviously you’d have to have the product professionally tested.

(anhydrous 20% zinc product with SPF 40)

https://stream2sea.com/products/spf-40-sunscreen-balm/

stream2sea.com

SPF 40 Sport Sunscreen Zinc Balm - Stream2Sea: Tested & Proven Reef-safe Sunscreen & Skin Care

The all-new SPF 40 Balm sunscreen has been Environmental Working Group verified and certified 100% U.S. Department of Agriculture Biobased. Active Ingredient: 20% EcoSafe Zinc™ - a non-nano mineral that applies sheer but is proven safe for you and our … Continue reading

[suswang8]

I wanted to re-open this again, for @MarkBroussard or @Belassi or anyone else still using this EGCG (or similar) extract.

The 0.5% citric acid has not been enough to prolong discoloration time; I typically notice the change in color after about three weeks, using 1% EGCG. Do you think this hydrolyzed protein extract will make all the difference, or is there perhaps another ingredient I should try? I am also going to try Miron (violet) glass, which should help, but I would prefer not to have to go to airless (plastic) packaging.

Thank you.

[suswang8]

Reopening…

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to use the powder form of SMCT? (Useless instructions from MakingCosmetics tell you nothing more than to mix it in with your other surfactants.) I assume I need to first mix this ingredient with some warm water….and once that’s done, I can add my other (liquid surfactants)…which should also be heated? And from there I can add small amounts of lipids…?

Thank you.

[suswang8]

Basically, I am making indirect reference to the study below, which looks at strength based on IU, rather than % concentration, but — yes — I was speaking only of retinol and not other similar derivatives.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36574043/

pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

A long term study of the difference in efficacy and effect rate of various concentrations of retinol (1500-6600 IU) in middle aged women - PubMed

Retinol is widely used for topical application for antiaging. However, the efficacy and effect rate of different concentrations of retinol have been rarely analyzed. Therefore, in this study, the efficacy and rate of effect of retinol concentrations from 1500 to … Continue reading

[suswang8]

Hi, all.

Cranberry oil is known for being relatively stable, but given its high polyunsaturated content, it is definitely still regarded as a “precious” carrier oil. Unless they are refrigerated or stored under nitrogen, nearly all of them at least start going rancid after the one-year mark. To give you a somewhat relevant example, the Flora flaxseed oil that I buy has a relatively similar fatty acid profile as the cranberry seed oil, and the instructions on the bottle suggest it be used within two months after opening….even though it’s refrigerated. (I realize this is not apples-to-apples because they are speaking of human consumption, but still.) I will be using the cranberry oil at a very high %, so it’s a fairly big issue for me.

<font color=”#01574e”>@PhilGeis </font> I would assume they will not disclose much information, but I can ask. In what they sent me, it seems to suggest only two variables/components were tested: (1) Appearance, for which they said “Pass” and (2) Peroxide Value, which scored 8.11 meq/kg (maximum threshold being 20meq/kg).

@Graillotion I agree with you, but this is kind of unbelievable given how long this particular reseller has been in business and in light of their reputation for being the go-to source for all things under the sun. To be honest, I was mainly going to them because some of the things they sell — e.g., two surfactants that I bought — are virtually impossible to find elsewhere. I honestly should have just used Jedwards from the beginning, but their MOQ is a bit high, and I would have had to “regift” some of the products to others, since I was buying a lot more than I could use. Knowing what has happened, I regret the decision. Noted about Simply Ingredients. And you are correct that this is not the first time this has happened: I am aware of other products this reseller is selling that are rancid/unusable per guidance from the manufacturer, yet they continue to do this without telling customers. I assume they get business because they have access to ingredients that so few resellers do.

[suswang8]

Apologies: I should have clarified that I was speaking about surfactants for shampoos. Forgot to mention that bit.

Thank you.

[suswang8]

Did you already try sodium phytate? Or can that not be used for some reason?

[suswang8]

Loads of sites in Europe carry it, such as Skinchakra.

Caffeine is known for being an antioxidant, but I don’t know what evidence there is in published literature re: cosmetic effects around the eye area.

[suswang8]

Nope. I order mine, like 90% of my stuff, from Europe.

[suswang8]

For the anti-glycerin brigade . . .

Do you feel the same about sodium PCA?

[suswang8]

(just making sure @Cafe33 @chemicalmatt see this). ????

[suswang8]

I am interested in learning more about this ingredient myself, only because I hear it referred to as both a surfactant and (hydrophilic) refatting agent. For shampoo, it seems people only incorporate it for the latter reason. I also would like to know why glyceryl oleate is used so much more for this purpose rather than sucrose cocoate.

Regarding your post specifically, I would imagine a cleanser with such a high percentage of this ingredient would be very “moisturizing,” but perhaps its refatting benefits are overstated.

[suswang8]

Thank you. I am trying to be an evil natural-ish formulator and avoid going down the polysorbate road, but let’s see what happens. It looks like I might have to do my own experimentation and report back my findings. ????

[suswang8]

Now, I get it 🙂

But back to sodium metabisulfite….usage is typically 0.1%? Or not sure?

[suswang8]

I think you mean 0.1%, no?

[suswang8]

Yes. Sorry if I’m not being clear, but I already knew that.

I think the question I had (originally) were what could I use to (help) stabilize antioxidants like EGCG other than going airless.

[suswang8]

Belated “thank you” on this.

They would not see to confirm or deny that they provided the packaging, but either way — and bizarrely — they no longer offer identical items to what Suki used (i.e., they still sell a near-identical bottle, but the sprayer/neck options are quite different). I am going to test out some of their offerings, though. Thank you for your help.

[suswang8]

Anybody else? ????