[suswang8]

I’m sure an SPF of 30 should be taken for granted, but obviously you’d have to have the product professionally tested.

(anhydrous 20% zinc product with SPF 40)

https://stream2sea.com/products/spf-40-sunscreen-balm/

stream2sea.com

SPF 40 Sport Sunscreen Zinc Balm - Stream2Sea: Tested & Proven Reef-safe Sunscreen & Skin Care

The all-new SPF 40 Balm sunscreen has been Environmental Working Group verified and certified 100% U.S. Department of Agriculture Biobased. Active Ingredient: 20% EcoSafe Zinc™ - a non-nano mineral that applies sheer but is proven safe for you and our … Continue reading

[suswang8]

I wanted to re-open this again, for @MarkBroussard or @Belassi or anyone else still using this EGCG (or similar) extract.

The 0.5% citric acid has not been enough to prolong discoloration time; I typically notice the change in color after about three weeks, using 1% EGCG. Do you think this hydrolyzed protein extract will make all the difference, or is there perhaps another ingredient I should try? I am also going to try Miron (violet) glass, which should help, but I would prefer not to have to go to airless (plastic) packaging.

Thank you.

[suswang8]

Reopening…

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to use the powder form of SMCT? (Useless instructions from MakingCosmetics tell you nothing more than to mix it in with your other surfactants.) I assume I need to first mix this ingredient with some warm water….and once that’s done, I can add my other (liquid surfactants)…which should also be heated? And from there I can add small amounts of lipids…?

Thank you.

[suswang8]

Basically, I am making indirect reference to the study below, which looks at strength based on IU, rather than % concentration, but — yes — I was speaking only of retinol and not other similar derivatives.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36574043/

• This reply was modified 1 month, 4 weeks ago by  suswang8.

pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

A long term study of the difference in efficacy and effect rate of various concentrations of retinol (1500-6600 IU) in middle aged women - PubMed

Retinol is widely used for topical application for antiaging. However, the efficacy and effect rate of different concentrations of retinol have been rarely analyzed. Therefore, in this study, the efficacy and rate of effect of retinol concentrations from 1500 to … Continue reading

[suswang8]

Hi, all.

Cranberry oil is known for being relatively stable, but given its high polyunsaturated content, it is definitely still regarded as a “precious” carrier oil. Unless they are refrigerated or stored under nitrogen, nearly all of them at least start going rancid after the one-year mark. To give you a somewhat relevant example, the Flora flaxseed oil that I buy has a relatively similar fatty acid profile as the cranberry seed oil, and the instructions on the bottle suggest it be used within two months after opening….even though it’s refrigerated. (I realize this is not apples-to-apples because they are speaking of human consumption, but still.) I will be using the cranberry oil at a very high %, so it’s a fairly big issue for me.

<font color=”#01574e”>@PhilGeis </font> I would assume they will not disclose much information, but I can ask. In what they sent me, it seems to suggest only two variables/components were tested: (1) Appearance, for which they said “Pass” and (2) Peroxide Value, which scored 8.11 meq/kg (maximum threshold being 20meq/kg).

@Graillotion I agree with you, but this is kind of unbelievable given how long this particular reseller has been in business and in light of their reputation for being the go-to source for all things under the sun. To be honest, I was mainly going to them because some of the things they sell — e.g., two surfactants that I bought — are virtually impossible to find elsewhere. I honestly should have just used Jedwards from the beginning, but their MOQ is a bit high, and I would have had to “regift” some of the products to others, since I was buying a lot more than I could use. Knowing what has happened, I regret the decision. Noted about Simply Ingredients. And you are correct that this is not the first time this has happened: I am aware of other products this reseller is selling that are rancid/unusable per guidance from the manufacturer, yet they continue to do this without telling customers. I assume they get business because they have access to ingredients that so few resellers do.

[suswang8]

Apologies: I should have clarified that I was speaking about surfactants for shampoos. Forgot to mention that bit.

Thank you.

[suswang8]

Did you already try sodium phytate? Or can that not be used for some reason?

[suswang8]

Loads of sites in Europe carry it, such as Skinchakra.

Caffeine is known for being an antioxidant, but I don’t know what evidence there is in published literature re: cosmetic effects around the eye area.

[suswang8]

Nope. I order mine, like 90% of my stuff, from Europe.

[suswang8]

For the anti-glycerin brigade . . .

Do you feel the same about sodium PCA?

[suswang8]

(just making sure @Cafe33 @chemicalmatt see this). 🙂

[suswang8]

I am interested in learning more about this ingredient myself, only because I hear it referred to as both a surfactant and (hydrophilic) refatting agent. For shampoo, it seems people only incorporate it for the latter reason. I also would like to know why glyceryl oleate is used so much more for this purpose rather than sucrose cocoate.

Regarding your post specifically, I would imagine a cleanser with such a high percentage of this ingredient would be very “moisturizing,” but perhaps its refatting benefits are overstated.

[suswang8]

Thank you. I am trying to be an evil natural-ish formulator and avoid going down the polysorbate road, but let’s see what happens. It looks like I might have to do my own experimentation and report back my findings. 🤠

[suswang8]

Well, ye olde traditional surfactants I am pretty sure is the answer, but I believe that is partially because one almost always adjusts the pH with citric acid in the finished product — and that this is not done when preparing soap — perhaps because it’s not possible/feasible? Not sure.

[suswang8]

Anybody else? 🙂

[suswang8]

I’m not sure there is a way to make a natural room spray last long. I think that 7% fragrance is already pretty high, but increasing it might provide the effect you need.

I am curious who recommended the glycerin to you, and especially that high, but perhaps they know something we don’t (i.e., it sticks to a surface and evaporates more slowly?)

I also think you should increase the amount of water. Why don’t you try something like 75% ethanol, 18% water, and 7% fragrance, as a start and see if you notice a difference from your current blend?

[suswang8]

So the story gets better:

I contacted Making Cosmetics, and they said their product is *not* Rovisome Retinol Moist, adding that just because I found the usage instructions I mentioned above, that does not necessarily mean those instructions are applicable to the Making Cosmetics variant, as these are two different (albeit similar) products.

I then wrote back to say that the Rovisome was the only product I was able to locate online that had the same INCI as the Making Cosmetics item, and that if it is not Rovisome, what product is it? They then came back to say that they will not tell me which product it is. =|

[suswang8]

Thank you.

I did know it was Rovisome Retinol Moist, but I didn’t want to mention the name as I believe some of the resellers are sensitive for whatever reason. I tried contacting Evonik previously, but they didn’t seem eager to help since I was not really a client. Making Cosmetics said they did not have additional information, and I also just noticed from a technical document from the manufacturer that you need to (1) warm the product to room temperature and (2) shake it before using it — neither of which was mention on the MC packaging.

[suswang8]

Thanks, guys.

[suswang8]

OK. Naturally derived? 🙂

(I don’t think there is a fully natural product that is similar to either dimethicone or cyclopentasiloxae.)

[suswang8]

I would prefer to use a natural product.

[suswang8]

Reopening to ask….

I have heard someone describe isoamyl laurate and coco-caprylate/caprate as both being good replacements for dimethicone but that isoamyl laurate has a fairly dry (non-greasy) feel and coco-caprylate/caprate has a more emollient sensation after application. Do you agree with this?

[suswang8]

@Belassi

Did you ever end up experimenting with this in a shampoo?

[suswang8]

Belated “thank you” on this.

They would not see to confirm or deny that they provided the packaging, but either way — and bizarrely — they no longer offer identical items to what Suki used (i.e., they still sell a near-identical bottle, but the sprayer/neck options are quite different). I am going to test out some of their offerings, though. Thank you for your help.

[suswang8]

55 degrees C has always been enough for me, and I want to say that 50C is probably enough, but I am not certain.