Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Please give some advice on this shampoo formulation


  • Please give some advice on this shampoo formulation

    Posted by trujfj on October 25, 2023 at 10:27 pm

    Hello, I made formula for shampoo. Here’s the ingredients:

    Na2 EDTA: 0.05%; Polyquaternium 7: 1%; Hostapon SCI 85: 5%; CAPB: 15%; Decyl Glucoside: 7.5%.

    Polysorbate 20: 0.75%; Oil: 0.15%; Essential oil: 2%; Tocopherol: 0.1%.

    Glycerin: 7%; Euxyl PE 9010: 1%; NaCl or Xanthan gum for viscosity; Water.

    I have 2 questions that I need advicde:

    1) Is there any potential risk or serious problem for user with this formulation?

    2) Decyl Glucoside or Lauryl Glucoside will increase amount of foam?

    Any tips on ingredient adjustments or techniques would be appreciated. Thank you!

    fareloz replied 7 months, 1 week ago 10 Members · 15 Replies
  • 15 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    October 26, 2023 at 12:52 pm

    @trujfj As I have stated soooo many times before in this blogosphere: friends, don’t let friends place glycerin into surfactant cleansing products because it does so many terrible things and then all rinses off into the sewer to do more unpleasant things down there. DEL the glycerin and you will no longer need xanthan gum or salt. That 2.0% essential oil isn’t doing you any good either. Are you philosophically opposed to using fragrances? Doesn’t seem to be a problem using other synthetics, right? To answer your questions though: #1) no potential risk to users other than they won’t like it very much with all that essential oil. decrease that and increase the Polyquaternium-7 (10% active) to provide better wet comb. #2) Glucosides are not good foamers compared to most surfactants, increase the betaine or SCI instead.

    • trujfj

      October 26, 2023 at 8:42 pm

      Many thanks for your advice. I will continue studying in this forum to enhance my knowledge.

      Regarding essential oils, I use biologically active ones that have an effect on oil products. However, the process with oil products is too complex, so I want to create a shampoo product for a better customer experience. Hence, it is the essence of this product :v

      Anyway, thank you for your recommendation.

      • ADENA

        November 15, 2023 at 6:29 am

        @chemicalmatt May I ask, why is glycerin bad in surfactant cleansing products? I’ve just started to formulate, so I would really appreciate the knowledge, and thank you btw 🙂

  • mikethair

    October 27, 2023 at 5:26 pm

    My approach to shampoo is a lot simpler. Saponified coconut oil with added essential oils. I manufactured this product for 20 years for brands globally, and now in retirement, I have constant requests for this product.

    • fareloz

      November 20, 2023 at 6:00 am

      It is not a shampoo, it is soap. And ads of your company.

  • Cafe33

    October 27, 2023 at 9:09 pm

    Have you thought about adding Lamesoft PO 65? It will have a slight thickening effect and adds a nice feel to the shampoo. Not too discourage you but 5% SCI is typically needs a anionic co surfactant(s) to work sufficiently well. If you have the budget consider adding SLSa, it is highly soluble and according to some Stepan literature, it stabilizes SCI in solution.

    The glycerin is pointless.

    • trujfj

      October 28, 2023 at 9:23 pm

      Thanks for your reply.

      Unfortunately, I have no SLAS supplier, and I don’t have any available Coco Glucoside either.

  • ketchito

    October 28, 2023 at 4:36 pm

    Decyl glucoside might not help you build good viscosity. If you still want some glucoside, shoose coco glucoside.

    Also, I don’t see something to give lubriticy to hair, so an ester or silicone (I believe you might not be a fan of those) is required.

    Could you elaborate more on this: “biologically active ones that have an effect on oil products”?

    Also, your preservativos system might not give enough protection.

    • trujfj

      October 28, 2023 at 9:28 pm

      Thanks for your reply,

      Yeah, I prefer not to use ester or silicone currently. However, I will consider using them depending on the results of later experiments with this formulation.

      Regarding bioactives,… I wrote that quite obscurely. I meant that there is a product contain above essential oils and 2 carrier oils that have shown the desired bioactivity on the skin and hair, which I want to use in this formula, so I cannot exclude them from my formulation.

  • suswang8

    October 28, 2023 at 6:01 pm

    For the anti-glycerin brigade . . .

    Do you feel the same about sodium PCA?

  • Mad.Scnts

    October 30, 2023 at 8:49 pm

    may i asking, how was your physical performance of shampoo? is it viscous enough? my shampoo has same surfactant base as your shampoo, but using HPMC, Acrylates copolymer and NaCl as thickening agent, in some case my shampoo get clumping. i want to change the thickening agent.

    • trujfj

      October 30, 2023 at 8:57 pm


      I have not tested this formula yet. I currently working with actives first.

      I will notify you when I test this formula (may be 1-2 months later :v ).

      • Mad.Scnts

        October 30, 2023 at 9:08 pm

        okay. FYI, i’m using 8% decyl glucoside, 9.5% CAPB, 2% SCI, and 2% CDEA. it’s foaming property become gentle, dense and slightly rich. but dont compare it with SLES-Shampoo, foam.

  • drkvsarathi

    November 20, 2023 at 5:08 am

    The chosen surfactants and their concentrations are fine and it meets 14+ percent ASM, which is suitable for making shampoo formulations and I have concern on the usage of xanthan gum, which will not give uniform flow and looks like a jelly kind of nature. Pls check.

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