Paprik
Forum Replies Created
-
Ahoooj!
Good to see another Czech in here 🙂 I have nothing else to add to Perry’s comment, just wanted to say hi 🙂 I am from Czech too, but living in NZ. Got a little excited to see you here 😀
-
You can source pure caffeine. Myskinrecipes have some encapsulated. I source it here in NZ in normal form.
I use it at 2% around the eyes. But if I remember correctly TheOrdinary have 5% serum?
-
Hi,
I would just try to make a simple formula first and after tried to add more anionic or other surfactants. Try it simply with one anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic and see how it goes.
And change anionic if that doesn’t work etc..
What worked for my cationic guar now was to add that into water first, lower pH to 5 ish and mix for 15 minutes. After I add all other surfactants.
You are also using Geogard ECT, I would never go above pH 5 ish with this one, despite what the supplier says. And also would add a booster.
Good luck, keep us posted 🙂
-
I second Microformulation …
But here would be my rank and why
1. SLES - due to the ethoxylation (milder)
2. SCS and SLS
Maybe SLS would be 3. as SCS sounds better for customers.
-
It is normal. Really depending on your waxes and lipids.
Sometimes the full viscosity is reached a few days after manufacture.
And yes, the higher temperature the more “liquid” your product will be. 45°C is considered high temperature for stability testing and will not likely to happen in real life.
-
I am not really sure about the “reputable vendor” term.
The carrier oil should be emulsified. Not added after. You usually don’t put oils into emulsion, unless it is heat sensitive (e.g. cyclomethicone). The oil will be kind of free and might just feel heavy (if plant oil is chosen).
1% essential oil or fragrance seems crazy! First of all, you need to check regulatory limits for essential oils. If you add essential oils you need to add antioxidant. Fragrance at 1% is also high input. Depending on the fragrance, you sometimes need 0.1 - 0.2%.
Chemists/formulators work in grams, not gallons. So I would weight the product and mix it accordingly.
Some emulsions need to be mixed under low shear after/during cooldown, some can be high sheared again. Without formula/IL of the body cream we cannot tell.
-
That looks to me like a solubiliser.
Will be a highly ethoxylated substance.
-
Hi,
44% is not the surfactant active matter, right? It is probably using 44% solution at, let’s say, 10-15%?
It would be probably easier if you tell us what do you have on hand and if you want to replace it with sulfate or non-sulfate.
We can literally name dozens of surfactant - from sodium coco sulfate to “luxurious” ones such as isethionates or taurates. -
Yes, you do. But you do have a little bit - Behentrimonium Chloride. Not enough I am afraid.
Cetostearyl Alcohol helps as it probably made it real thick.
-
Glycolic acid is never let you to thicken the Carbomer 940. Also bringing the pH to high level will neutralise the acid anyway.
You need something electrolytes resistant. I had success with Sepimax Zen. And keep the pH low so the acid can stay bioavailable.
-
I have never worked with Polysorbate 60, but I would say for this higher load of lipids you should choose some solid waxy emulsifier (blend), even anionic, paired with a stabiliser (can be cetearyl alcohol) and also add rheology modifier (Xanthan Gum).
-
@Graillotion could help you. He is a Deo God 🙂
-
According to the suppliers the pH should be within 6-8. It might hydrolyze out of that range.
If we take into consideration that pH drifts over the product’s shelf life, I would definitely aim for pH 7.
Use the active at 0.001% and you can make good marketing story and not worry much about stability.
-
You would need to supply your full formula with inputs in % w/w.
Otherwise we can only guess.
-
Sorry, I was replaying to a wrong topic.
-
Yummy … bacteria cannot wait to dig in 🙂 😀
First of all … what is your budged for this formula? 😀
You need to realise all those butters, milk and oil will go down the drain. Actually, some will stick to your face and not really clean it as there is almost nothing to support cleansing.
Total active surfactant matter will be around 1.6%, however it will be killed/busy with taking care of all those butters and oils.
Let’s rewrite the formula, save you some money and make a nice gentle cleanser, ok?
To 100% Water
0.2 Chelating agent
0.3-0.5-ish - Xanthan Gum depending on grade
2-% ish Glycerin just for slurry of XG (but you don’t actually need XG, you can reach nice viscosity with Cetyl alcohol/Cetearyl alcohol)
3-6% Cetyl alcohol (or do you have Cetearyl alcohol? Might be better option)
5-10% Cocamidopropyl Betaine
3-5% Decyl Glucoside
Preservative (Highest recommended/allowed input)
pH to be compatible with all the ingredients especially preservative - aim for as low as possible.
To make it more milder, add superfatting agents if you have any on hand. You can add polyquat-7 for also for example.
I would also look for anionic surfactant - this would be the main cleansing agent. Then support it with amphoteric and nonionic. Remember you do not need high active matter input for face wash as it is a small area. Aim for 3-5%.
If you would also get salt responsive anionic surfactant, thickening would become way easier. 🙂
Hope this helps?
-
Oh wow, yeah .. definitely would not fall under commonly available cosmetics at this % and final pH.
Looks like CosIng is broken (couldn’t find corresponding opinion under Lactic acid), but found CIR (cosmetic ingredient review) opinion = ≤10% and pH ≥ 3.5.
https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/PR758.pdf
But yeah, your regulations might be different. I would not say by much tho.
From the times when I had acne, I can imagine how much this would hurt and sting if I would apply it on it.
Acne is basically broken skin - try to cut yourself and squeeze lemon juice in it 😀
Definitely not recommended.My recommendation would be to use some form of serum, which would stay on the skin. It would be weaker and would have time to work. Lactic acid is a great ingredient which allegedly helps to ceramides and skin barrier. I do use it in my facial spray/toner. Used to have a serum, but as formulator I do have 100 serums on hand all the time and could not stick with it 😀
-
Oh yeah, I have a good one too 😀
I got this one for free for my grocery shopping. I guess they could not sell 😀
-
PLEASE .. use a proper preservative. Especially in your “green tea based” product. This sounds delicious to me, .. imagine to bugs 😀
Use chelating agent if possible, use some strong well-known preservative and support it with other ingredient, keep pH as low as possible.
Almost every ingredient can act as a bug food in low inputs.
-
If you are looking for clear aka transparent concoction you should look for solubiliser for the oil phase. However if you are using 5% lipid that might be too much.
Some gums might hold a small lipid input too.
I am surprised that Sepimax Zen did not pass? I made Glycolic acid serum with it [huge load of electrolytes] and it was just fine. It has never failed me.
Maybe share you full formula and we will be able to help you more.
-
Why you cannot list all the ingredients? You will have to list them on the product anyway?
-
Ok, glucosides are non-ionic .. Cocamidopropyl Betaine is amphoteric and Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) is the only anionic on your list.
SCI is a bit harder to work with as it tends to precipitate in solution. Check this forum for some tips and tricks. I would suggest to source more water soluble form of Isethionate - Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate for example. However if it is for a shampoo, it might be toooo expensive. It is usually used in premium products or face washes as you do not need that much surfactant active level. It is very mild.
-
Oh I see now 😀 I just skim read and once saw Deo - BANG .. Graillotion 😀
-
By some mommy blogger I believe. Please do not try to replicate everything you see.
Main purpose of cleanser it to clean .. not to add to your skin - that is what toners, serums, creams etc are for.
You should have your development brief and you should go with that.
If your customer wants a gentle cleanser, look for gentle anionic surfactant (isethionates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, glutamates … ), pair it with amphoteric and nonionic, add superfatting agent or polyquats and you are sorted. No need for fancy milks etc .. you can add them at 0.01% for marketing and that is it.
Good luck with your formulating 🙂
-
Amen! As I also read somewhere here, when you ask the trainer they tell you to re-read some text or watch their god dammed video. It was so frustrating to get a proper answer from them. I had Tasmin as a trainer.
The best thing is, as mentioned, to finish the formulas as per their guides and tables, do not make any innovation or try to be “extra”, get the paper and learn on your own.
On the other hand, I think that those Facebook lives they are doing [well, when Belinda was doing them] are quite good as they need to answer your question properly and you can respond immediately. Now, Tasmin is doing them and they are not so great.