Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Moisturizer piling off

  • Moisturizer piling off

    Posted by Beginnnerformulator98 on February 3, 2024 at 11:51 am

    Hi, i have a question about my moisturizer piling off after application. It doesn’t pil off immediately but does once i start rubbing it more after a while.

    Here are the ingredients:

    Hyaluronic Acid- 2%

    Panthenol- 2%

    Polyglutamic acid- 2%

    Glycerin 5%

    Butylene glycol 3%

    Xanthan gym 0.5 %

    Aloe vera 3%

    Squalene 10%

    Bisabolol 2%

    Ethylhexyl stearate 1%

    Jojoba oil 2%

    Sweet almond oil 1%

    Shea butter 1%

    Cetyl alcohol 5%

    Stearic acid 1%

    Caprylic triglyceride 2%

    Dimethicone- 0.5%

    Any help would be appreciated- my aim is to create a cream moisturizer that leaves the skin very plump and hydrated.

    Unknown Member replied 1 week, 5 days ago 4 Members · 16 Replies
  • 16 Replies
  • graillotion

    February 3, 2024 at 2:10 pm

    Incomplete formula… please list all ingredients, including the preservative.

    First guess would be the X-gum….as it is often the guilty party. .5% is a lot.

    Second guesses would be way too much of HA and PGA. Maybe look at some professional formulas for some guidance on use levels. Please do not take the sellers use rates…as they are only trying to move product.

    Too much Aloe, can also have this effect. Cut all above mentions by at least 50%…and see if you have a better product.

  • Beginnnerformulator98

    February 3, 2024 at 2:21 pm

    So i added optiphen at 1% for the preservative, that’s the only thing i forgot to include in the list sorry. You’re saying i should cut all the above product weights in half and just increase the water as the solvent?

    • graillotion

      February 3, 2024 at 2:27 pm

      Hehehe….Yes…just for a knock out experiment, start with the 50% reduction of the jelly like materials….this will at least give you an idea if you are headed in the right direction.

      Don’t ask me more….as I would delete all aloe….and put HA and PGA down to claim levels. 😉

      • graillotion

        February 3, 2024 at 2:29 pm

        When you said all above….that would be the X-gum, HA, PGA and aloe.

        Yes, replace with water.

        At some point…you’ll may have to find an alternate thickener…as the above will reduce viscosity.

        • graillotion

          February 3, 2024 at 2:33 pm

          Look at the use rate of PGA! Looks a little like you used mommy blogger sites for a reference? HA would have similar use rates.

  • Beginnnerformulator98

    February 3, 2024 at 2:32 pm

    Thank you so much! What other thickeners would you recommend that don’t pil off? I find that carbomer pils off as well 🙁

    • graillotion

      February 3, 2024 at 2:37 pm

      Do you find this formula drying (say after an hour), and this is why you are rubbing the skin…and finding the pilling?

      If you drop the aloe completely….a whole new world opens up to you…. Look at Aristoflex AVC. You can get that at LotionCrafters…if you live in the USA. (Dropping all the aloe…would be a wonderful thing….as it is mostly over-hyped bug food.)

  • Beginnnerformulator98

    February 3, 2024 at 2:39 pm

    Okay i will drop the aloe. Thank you so much!

    • graillotion

      February 3, 2024 at 2:42 pm

      This formula….is so…. far from standard… I think you should just go back to the drawing board.

      What are you trying make? A moisturizing cream? Let me know what you are trying to make…and I paste a couple of formulas…just to give you some guidelines.

  • Beginnnerformulator98

    February 3, 2024 at 11:11 pm

    What about it is so far from standard? I’m trying to make a squalene and B5 moisturizing cream

  • paprik

    February 4, 2024 at 6:21 pm

    It is a lot … that is how I would describe it.

    Take it easy and reduce and/or remove some ingredients.

    My guess would be hyaluronic acid. If you are using HMW, 2% is a LOT. It basically dries and turn into flakes. If you are using good grade of Xanthan Gum I would say 0.3% is not a lot. If you are using some cheap slimy snotty grade it might not be helpful.

    2% Panthenol - again, too much. It might also feel sticky.

    If you calculate the phases, you have around ~56% water left. Try to aim higher.

  • Beginnnerformulator98

    February 4, 2024 at 11:38 pm

    Okay thank you, I appreciate it. I’ll reduce those quantities and replace the HA with LMW sodium hyaluronate. Is the 10% squalene okay? I read that’s how much you need to use to show tangible results

    • paprik

      February 6, 2024 at 1:15 pm

      Even with LMW HA stick with 0.x% .. if you put a lot of HA, it might draw moisture from the skin and evaporate from the surface = drier skin.

      If 10% Squalene is ok for you, I don’t see a reason why not. Drier skin types will appreciate that.

      Happy formulating!

  • Unknown Member

    February 21, 2024 at 12:25 am

    Make sure your skin isn’t over-exfoliated, as dead skin buildup can interfere with moisturizer absorption.

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