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Using Siligel or xanthan gum
I am trying to use a “gum” to make a viscous serum. I tried using 1.5 siligel in my formula and my client wants it more viscous. I swapped out the siligel and used xanthan gum at 1.0 and its not much thicker. Do I fear using an emulsifier may change the syrup like texture that is wanted. any suggestions?
water 78.450
Glycerin 7.0%
Propanediol 4.0%
Siligel 1.5%
carbomer 0.5%
cetyl ethylhexanote 0.75%
grapeseed oil 0.5%
solubilizer 2.0%
Panthenol 1.0%
sodium pca 0.5%
Kojic Acid 1.0%
actives- 0.8%
preservative 1.0
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3 Replies
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Have you checked to see if your carbomer is even gelling with the Na PCA? Many carbomers will not gel when hanging out with that crowd.
Just mix your carbomer in water….at formula rate….then add the Na PCA at formula rate….and observe if any change in viscosity.
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Even the Kojic acid will probably interfere .. what is the final pH? Most of the Carbomers require pH ~7.
Not sure what actives you’re using, .. they might be also electrolytes.
It also looks like it might feel sticky? 7% Glycerin is a lot. Plus 1% Panthenol.
I would re-think the whole formula.
Start with just water and XG / Siligel & humectant, add enough to get desired viscosity.
After start adding other ingredients and actives and see if that caused any instability/reducing viscosity.
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First off, does it have to be a gum? Will no other natural thickener be acceptable except the gums you mentioned? I have worked with Lucas Meyer/IFF products for decades and use Siligel often. Siligel isn’t a very robust thickener. It’s more of a sensorial enhancer. From the two, the xanthan gum will give you a lot of viscosity, but the tradeoff is stringiness and a slimy effect. Alternatives that give great viscosity & clarity that are natural would-be CMC (cellulose gum), Inulin, Solagum TARA (Seppic), Natrosol 250HHR, to name just a few.
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