Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Natural Solubilizer for Tocopheryl Acetate

  • Natural Solubilizer for Tocopheryl Acetate

    Posted by Charlie on January 24, 2024 at 11:21 am

    Hello,

    I’m working on a new facial serum with Vitamin C and Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate). I see that a combination of Vitamin C + 1% of Vitamin E is great for the skin.

    So, I tried to add 1% of Vitamin E to my serum, but at the moment, I haven’t succeeded in solubilizing it.

    I tried 1% of Tocopheryl Acetate with:

    • TEGOSOFT PC 41 by Evonik (Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate): 2.5%
    • Sepiclear G7 by Seppic (Heptyl Glucoside): 2%

    (I mixed for 15 minutes at 1000rpm.)

    On the brochure of Sepiclear G7 by Seppic, it’s indicated that we can solubilize 1% Tocopheryl Acetate with 2% of Sepiclear G7, but it didn’t work on my end.

    • Do you have a solution? Do you know the ratio for “Vit E: Natural Solubilizer”?
    • Is 1% of Vit E too much?
    • I heard it’s not great to use too much solubilizer, or the serum will be sticky.

    Thank you very much.

    Unknown Member replied 3 weeks, 1 day ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • paprik

    Member
    January 24, 2024 at 12:42 pm

    First of all, do not use Acetate form. It will not help to protect formula and will not do much on the skin either. Use normal Tocopherols - I love mixed tocopherols.

    That said, how do you incorporate it? Do you pre-mix the tocopherol with solubiliser first? And add slowly into the water phase under stirring waiting the solution to become clean after each addition?

    I believe there is somewhere patented formula (that lose its patent already so it can be found and used) for this kind of Vitamin C serum. Search this forum for it. This might give you an idea about the inputs.

    *** I would aim for ratio 5 : 1 as Solubiliser : Vit E. Maybe even 10 : 1 depending on the solubiliser. ***

    If I remember correct everyone seems to like Polysugamulse D9

    Hope this helps 🙂

    • Charlie

      Member
      January 25, 2024 at 3:56 am

      Hi @Paprik

      Thank you for your answer.

      - I choose Acetate :

      1. Because I heard Acetate is an active ingredient for the skin and Tocopherol for antioxidant effect (and not an active ingredient for the skin).

      2. Like I use only Vit E in the “oil phase”, I didn’t need an antioxidant in my formulation (anyway I believe)


      - About “Polysugamulse D9” thank you, but I can’t use it because it has a crosspolymer and I blacklist polymer on my all formulas.

      - I will try this ration of Solubilizer:oil = “5:1” and “10:1”

      With this concentration, it will not be sticky serum?

      Yes, I premix Solubilizer with Vit E, before adding the water (slowly but continuously) with 1000 rpm.

      - About the patent, I saw this patent online (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7756752/) where it uses Vitamine E (acetate) + Vit C + Peptide.

      Maybe you speak about another patent?

  • ketchito

    Member
    January 25, 2024 at 8:26 am

    1% of Tocopheryl acetato might be a bit too much. I wouldn’t go over 0.5%. Keep in mind that you still need something to stabilize your vitamin C. There are few patents on the subject.

    Why did you blacklisted polymers? Does that apply also to natural polymers? Many polymers are now biodegradable, just in case.

    A 5:1 or 10:1 ratio could actually give a sticy feel. I’d use mixtures of solubilizers, both to use less of each and prevent stickiness. There are also patents on the topic.

  • paprik

    Member
    January 25, 2024 at 1:46 pm

    Hi,

    1) Acetate form is not that effective. Check this forum, you will find others talking about it.

    2) As Ketchito said, you also want to protect the product from oxidation = Mixed/d-alpha tocopherol. NOT acetate. That will protect your formula and also skin.

    Polysugamulse D9 is natural, even COSMOS suitable. You cannot go better than that if that what you/your customers care about.

    You could also use Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside?

    If you want I can send you some slides with natural solubilisers. Send me DM.

    As long as your solution stays clean/transparent, you have enough solubiliser and can add continuously.

    Again, as suggested by Ketchito, try combine some and see how it goes.

    Good luck.

  • Charlie

    Member
    January 26, 2024 at 11:36 am

    Hi @ketchito and @Paprik

    Thank you for your Feedbacks.

    - After reading you, I read the topics about « Vitamin E (Liquid) » on this forum and I understand now why it’s better to use Tocopherol instead of Tocopheryl Acetate.

    I will change my formula for Mixed Tocopherol 50%: I think for Bioxan T50.

    - Polymer :

    My bad, about this solubilizer crosspolymer until now, I equated crosspolymer = microplastic (Like a lot of European Customers do, I think)

    I will try this natural Solubilizer when the supplier sends me the sample (If it sells it in Europe).

    - Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

    I tried it but I had foam because I use > 2% and I failed in solubilizing with it currently.

    I will follow @ketchito and I am thinking of mixing 2 solubilized to have a less sticky serum.

    - Vitamin C :

    I will use Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as a Stable Vitamin C in the water, not ascorbic acid because this pure version isn’t stable and I want a product efficient for my customer, not Marketing Bullshit.

    To stabilize Vitamin C (SAP) and Vit E (Tocopherol) 0,2/0,5%, I m thinking use 0,5% Ferulic Acid too

    What do you think ?

    Thank you

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    Member
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