[Paprik]

I don’t think I will be much of a help in this. I use Sodium Coco Sulfate mostly.

But, starting to use PEG-150 Distearate or PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate as a thickener - but for facial cleansers. Not sure how well they would perform in hair products. Although the second one is recommended in shampoo formulas.

You could pair it with HPMC and I would agree with ChemMatt - keep it simple, bearing in mind that HPMC is not compatible with glucosides, polysorbates etc.. (if I remember correctly).

[Paprik]

I believe the first question will be what is the final pH?

[Paprik]

It looks ok. But ..

1. Isn’t seabuckthorn oil the very orange one? I have never worked with it, so not sure how much it “stains”?

2. Do not remove anything for testing. You want to test the product as is. Squalane is not water soluble, it is a lipid. So you definitely want it in there for testing.

Good luck, keep us posted 🙂

[Paprik]

Have you actually checked the ingredient list?

That would tell you what oil/s they used …

This cleanser is mineral oil based. Here is the ingredient list …

Mineral Oil, Peg-8 Glyceryl Isostearate, Cethyl Ethylhexancate, Cyclomethicone, Water, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Isostearic Acid, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol.

[Paprik]

Hi,

would be good to list all ingredients. Without knowing what exactly is in the formula I would say you are save using Xanthan Gum and HEC.

[HPMC is more suitable for foaming surfactant systems and Carbomer network is easily broken with electrolytes, unless you’re using electrolyte tolerant/resistant one].

Viscosity is build with waxy materials. So your rheology modifier might help with it, it might be better to use more waxy material to build the structure.

[Paprik]

You can use the search bar to see if someone asked about this already. 🙂

chemistscorner.com

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride - Chemists Corner

Hello guys,how are you processing GHPC? I am having problems with proper hydration I guess? Please see attached picture - doesn't matter how long I…

[Paprik]

You need to solubilise it. Premix it with polysorbate 20 or similar and slowly add into water phase under stirring.

[Paprik]

I usually do not like tagging, but @Perry44 , would you have any idea? 🙂

[Paprik]

For example Sephora sells it .. but there are many brands having this product.

So I am wondering how they incorporate retinol or actives/peptides into hot melted wax.

Is it right above the setting point of the molten phase or am I missing something?

[Paprik]

Fragrances can be tricky to work with. Small increase can break the viscosity. Without full formula we cannot help much.

Usually you would reduce water input for the fragrance increase. But might also increase solubiliser if used .. again, without full formula …. ¯\_(ツ)_/

[Paprik]

Have you tried better grade of Xanthan Gum? There are fantastic grades, not slimy, not sticky, transparent/translucent …

I would try Sepimax Zen.

Also if companies are using Ascorbic acid, the pH is probably low ~3.5 … and if they do use Hyaluronic acid, it must work, right? Ascorbic acid also oxidates quickly, so the stability is probably not the main problem. Use some HMW and see how it goes.

[Paprik]

It this to clean very dirty hands? Or regular bathroom hand soap?

I believe the surfactant level (~10%) is too high for hands only.

Are you sure 0.025% of HEC is doing anything? I don’t see any neutralising agent? What is the method here? For surfactant systems you would be better using HPMC.

As Ketchito said, 2% fragrance is insane. Have you checked IFRA regulations? If your fragrance does not perform well in lower inputs, change that.

[Paprik]

High HLB with addition of low HLB emulsifier is being used when making O/W emulsion. Not sure it is done when making W/O emulsions.

Easy wash off is achieved by high HLB = water loving. It will easily mix with water and wash off.

Low HLB does not like water = it will not mix and will not wash off.

Prepare your oil phase - heat

Prepare you water phase with NaCl - heat.

Start slowly dripping water phase into oil phase under rapid mixing.

[Paprik]

We mix O/W and W/O emulsifier when we are making O/W … 2% low HLB emulsifier can help with stability and viscosity.

You do not have usually problem to achieve viscous product in W/O?

What makes cream easily to wash off is its HLB. The higher HLB the more water loving and it will go down the drain. The lower HLB, (the more oily it is) and it will stay with the oil loving thing - your skin. [Very simply explained].

Make a base - oils + low HLB emulsifiers, add oil gelling agent. Heat

Water with NaCl. Heat.

Start dripping Water phase into Oil phase under rapid mixing.

[Paprik]

Have you tried adding a gum/polymer?

[Paprik]

You could add them at 0.01% for marketing purposes.

[Paprik]

Agree with above as long as used within regulatory limits and restrictions.

Such as not being used in body products, aerosols, oral hygiene etc …

[Paprik]

What are you tips to avoid the clumping and achieve perfect dispersion/hydration?

I haven’t found anything special in the instructions/datasheets on Prospector.

And I do tend to have issues with lumping so I just mix it, and mix it, and mix it … but also avoiding introducing air.

[Paprik]

I don’t think you can call is commercially sulfate-free. You could call it “natural”, from coconut. Directly from the beach to your hair 😀

Sacrosinate is anionic, so bear that in mind (when pairing with alpha olefin sulfonate) and generally stable pH>5.

Good luck! Keep us posted 🙂

[Paprik]

That is what I was actually thinking. As I know it feels a bit “draggy” and “waxy”, if you will, on the face, which is somewhat soothing and mild-like. So I wasn’t sure about the hair situation.

Pairing with HPMC could help as it could add a bit more slip and boost the foam.

But yeah, not much of a help on this one 🙂

[Paprik]

Hi,

I am sorry, there is a loooot going on.

Hm, I do not use HEC in emulsions, I feel like it soaps a lot and .. yeah, never really grew to it.

I do use good grade of Xanthan Gum and usually my starting point is 0.4%, but again depending on formula.

I have never worked with paraffin wax, so I cannot help with this. It really depends how you want the product to perform and feel.

[Paprik]

1. Water with Cationic Guar, chelating agent and citric acid to drop the pH - mix for 20 mins

2. Start heating

3. Add surfactants to mix it thru and disolve/melt

4. Cooldown. Preservatives, adjusting pH, fragrance etc …

5. NaCl

So far it always worked for me. I am using Sodium Coco Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate as my surfactants atm.

Hope this helps Abdullah 🙂

[Paprik]

Solubilise the fragrance, also as a mildness additive.

[Paprik]

At this input 0.025% it won’t do much I am afraid.

Swap for HPMC, this boosts foam and also thickens the system. !! However, if I am not mistaken you cannot use glucosides nor Polysorbate. It will break it. !! Also different types require difference processing method.

If you want a nice feel use some Polyquaternium-7.

[Paprik]

Ok, so you have tried one natural gum … that is it?