[Paprik]

Just to confirm what @Graillotion said.

The oil is continuous phase and tiny water droplets are suspended in it. So only every now and then the tiny small droplets hit the probe of your pH meter = not enough, not accurate.

As suggested, adjust the pH of you water phase before adding into oil phase. No further testing needed/required/can be done.

[Paprik]

Just to add a little - to check how the lipid “behaves”, simply put drop or two on back of your hand and see how it flows, how it shines after you spread it, how does it feel.

This will give you an idea how it will act in the product. If you use Coco Caprylate, you won’t get much emolliency. Dimethicone will give you more soft, silkier, softer feel. Castor oil will be very heavy, etc …

Experiment, experiment, experiment 🙂 Good luck!

[Paprik]

I guess those %’s are not as ASM (Active surfactant matter)? [It is always the best to post the FULL formula in a table or rows for easier reading including final pH and other information].

If you are using 10% (let’s say) 28% SLES, you only get 2.8% ASM. Not enough for hair product as it is a large area to wet and clean. Same with Coca-betaine. It is usually in ~33% dilution => 3% will give you ~1% ASM, not enough.

You can increase the guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride input. Again not sure what grade you’re using. There is a lot of them.

Do NOT put oils into surfactant systems (except for a fragrance and it is always good to solubilise it first). They will only negatively affect foam and destabilize the formula. Shampoo should remove oils from the hair, not to add.

Hope this helps, keep us posted.

[Paprik]

Are Gluconactone and Sodium Benzoate the only preservatives there?

What is the final pH? If you lower the pH does it lighten the colour?

[Paprik]

Wow, that is very generous of you. [I would grab them, but I am in New Zealand :'( )

Hopefully they will be given to someone who will use them and enjoy the knowledge they will gain from experimenting with them 🙂

[Paprik]

I would say 10 - 15% ASM is way too high. Hands are small area to clean. 10 - 15% ASM would be used in something like shampoo.

For face and hand products I would aim around 5% ASM. If you use good foaming surfactant it will be just fine and it will not over clean (and dry) the skin.

[Paprik]

Do you high shear?

You didn’t write the name of preservative (I assume phase C 1.5% was for it).

You have a decent lipid input, increase you emulsifier and add rheology modifier - e.g. Xanthan gum

[Paprik]

Clarifying as in it will remove all the hair, so the scalp will be clean? 😀

Depilatory products are around pH 11 - 11.5. Definitely not a good idea.

[Paprik]

I don’t think I will be much of a help in this. I use Sodium Coco Sulfate mostly.

But, starting to use PEG-150 Distearate or PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate as a thickener - but for facial cleansers. Not sure how well they would perform in hair products. Although the second one is recommended in shampoo formulas.

You could pair it with HPMC and I would agree with ChemMatt - keep it simple, bearing in mind that HPMC is not compatible with glucosides, polysorbates etc.. (if I remember correctly).

[Paprik]

I believe the first question will be what is the final pH?

[Paprik]

It looks ok. But ..

1. Isn’t seabuckthorn oil the very orange one? I have never worked with it, so not sure how much it “stains”?

2. Do not remove anything for testing. You want to test the product as is. Squalane is not water soluble, it is a lipid. So you definitely want it in there for testing.

Good luck, keep us posted 🙂

[Paprik]

Have you actually checked the ingredient list?

That would tell you what oil/s they used …

This cleanser is mineral oil based. Here is the ingredient list …

Mineral Oil, Peg-8 Glyceryl Isostearate, Cethyl Ethylhexancate, Cyclomethicone, Water, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Isostearic Acid, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol.

[Paprik]

Hi,

would be good to list all ingredients. Without knowing what exactly is in the formula I would say you are save using Xanthan Gum and HEC.

[HPMC is more suitable for foaming surfactant systems and Carbomer network is easily broken with electrolytes, unless you’re using electrolyte tolerant/resistant one].

Viscosity is build with waxy materials. So your rheology modifier might help with it, it might be better to use more waxy material to build the structure.

[Paprik]

You can use the search bar to see if someone asked about this already. 🙂

chemistscorner.com

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride - Chemists Corner

Hello guys,how are you processing GHPC? I am having problems with proper hydration I guess? Please see attached picture - doesn't matter how long I…

[Paprik]

You need to solubilise it. Premix it with polysorbate 20 or similar and slowly add into water phase under stirring.

[Paprik]

I usually do not like tagging, but @Perry44 , would you have any idea? 🙂

[Paprik]

For example Sephora sells it .. but there are many brands having this product.

So I am wondering how they incorporate retinol or actives/peptides into hot melted wax.

Is it right above the setting point of the molten phase or am I missing something?

[Paprik]

Sulfosuccinates are relatively good at foaming. Just give it a try. It might be just right for hands. You do not need a really excessive amount of foam.

They are hard to thicken, so definitely need a thickener.

[Paprik]

Hi @mikethair ,

I’m not involved in soap making, but I wanted to acknowledge your impressive achievements. We genuinely admire your accomplishments and the knowledge you generously share with us. However, there’s a slight discomfort when it feels like you’re consistently highlighting your successes/company. While we value your contributions, perhaps toning down the self-promotion a bit would make the community even more enjoyable for everyone.

Of course, this is just my perspective, but I want to express gratitude for your valuable presence within our community. There’s no doubt that we can all benefit from your expertise and experiences.

[Paprik]

I also feel like Mike is just showing off. It is becoming a tad annoying (to me) to be frank.

[Paprik]

What are you tips to avoid the clumping and achieve perfect dispersion/hydration?

I haven’t found anything special in the instructions/datasheets on Prospector.

And I do tend to have issues with lumping so I just mix it, and mix it, and mix it … but also avoiding introducing air.

[Paprik]

I don’t think you can call is commercially sulfate-free. You could call it “natural”, from coconut. Directly from the beach to your hair 😀

Sacrosinate is anionic, so bear that in mind (when pairing with alpha olefin sulfonate) and generally stable pH>5.

Good luck! Keep us posted 🙂

[Paprik]

That is what I was actually thinking. As I know it feels a bit “draggy” and “waxy”, if you will, on the face, which is somewhat soothing and mild-like. So I wasn’t sure about the hair situation.

Pairing with HPMC could help as it could add a bit more slip and boost the foam.

But yeah, not much of a help on this one 🙂

[Paprik]

Hi,

I am sorry, there is a loooot going on.

Hm, I do not use HEC in emulsions, I feel like it soaps a lot and .. yeah, never really grew to it.

I do use good grade of Xanthan Gum and usually my starting point is 0.4%, but again depending on formula.

I have never worked with paraffin wax, so I cannot help with this. It really depends how you want the product to perform and feel.

[Paprik]

1. Water with Cationic Guar, chelating agent and citric acid to drop the pH - mix for 20 mins

2. Start heating

3. Add surfactants to mix it thru and disolve/melt

4. Cooldown. Preservatives, adjusting pH, fragrance etc …

5. NaCl

So far it always worked for me. I am using Sodium Coco Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate as my surfactants atm.

Hope this helps Abdullah 🙂