Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating 2 in 1 shampoo formulation problems

  • 2 in 1 shampoo formulation problems

    Posted by Olivia93 on May 1, 2024 at 12:34 pm

    Hello i am formulating a 2 in 1 shampoo with cleansing and conditioning properties while minimizing irritation, ia m using

    10% SLES, 3%cocamidopropyl betaine and 2%sodium cocoyl glutamate and 1.5% decyl glucoside with 0. 2 guar trimonium chloride

    But i a m not having enough foam and conditioning effect and the hair can not be detangled easily i added amodimethicone 1% but it caused irritation so what should i do? I am thinking to use sodium cocoyl isethionate instead sodium cocoyl glutamate it will works? and can i add argan oil and almond oil and vit E to this formula or it will be so greesy?

    ketchito replied 2 weeks, 3 days ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Paprik

    May 1, 2024 at 1:49 pm

    I guess those %’s are not as ASM (Active surfactant matter)? [It is always the best to post the FULL formula in a table or rows for easier reading including final pH and other information].

    If you are using 10% (let’s say) 28% SLES, you only get 2.8% ASM. Not enough for hair product as it is a large area to wet and clean. Same with Coca-betaine. It is usually in ~33% dilution => 3% will give you ~1% ASM, not enough.

    You can increase the guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride input. Again not sure what grade you’re using. There is a lot of them.

    Do NOT put oils into surfactant systems (except for a fragrance and it is always good to solubilise it first). They will only negatively affect foam and destabilize the formula. Shampoo should remove oils from the hair, not to add.

    Hope this helps, keep us posted.

    • Olivia93

      May 2, 2024 at 1:43 am

      10% of sles (70%active) and sodium cocoyl glutamate 2% (37%active) and cocamidopropyl betaine 3% (45%active) and decyl glucoside 1.5% (53%active ) can you help me more how can i calculate the ASM cause i am a beginner formulator and if i am not adding oils how can i have a nourishing formula also it is better to use sodium cocoyl isothionate and i tried a 0.3% of guar the formula was so greesy but not having enough conditionning effect and detangling effect also take in consideration that i added 1% glycerin and 0.5 % sodium benzoate and 0.5% fragrance and 1 % sodium chloride and citric acid as pH regulator and my pH is 4.8

      • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 3 days ago by  Olivia93.
    • Olivia93

      May 2, 2024 at 1:52 am


      of surfactants ingredients:

      SLES 14.3%

      cocamidopropyl 6.6%

      SCG 5.4%

      decyl glucoside 2.8%

      Guar 0.2%

      Amodimethicone 1%

      Sodium chloride 1 %

      Glycerin 1%

      Sodium benzoate 0.5%

      Frangrance 0.5%

      Citric acid and pH=4.8

  • Fekher

    May 1, 2024 at 2:34 pm

    Nice answer from @Paprik then even sles is 70% the level of A.S still quite low. Then why using 2%sodium cocoyl glutamate and 1.5% decyl glucoside in no free sulfate shampoo I can’t find any benifet from that, the level of guar seems low then the level of amodimethicone seems high and almost will can stability problem.

    • Olivia93

      May 2, 2024 at 1:46 am

      i added them to decrease the irritating effect of sles and can i add 0.5% of guar or

  • ketchito

    May 2, 2024 at 10:01 am

    What you wrote at the start was actually your surfactant’s ASM:

    10% SLES, 3%cocamidopropyl betaine and 2%sodium cocoyl glutamate and 1.5% decyl glucoside

    Your formula in terms of surfactants it’s Ok. I’d suggest you to remove Glycerin (no real benefit in a cleanser) and Decyl glucoside (it’s a good degreaser, but it can be “too efficient” sometimes). This will give a good foam at the end (if you need even more, increase your SLES from 14.2 to 16.0%).

    Now, for conditioning, 1% of your Amodimethicone emulsion is not that much. Since you mentioned you experienced some disconfort with it, I’d use DC 1785 (or similar) instead, which is an emulsion of Dimethiconol in TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate. Use 2% and up.

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