Forum Replies Created

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  • gordof

    Member
    April 17, 2023 at 7:13 am in reply to: Non-fragrance ingredients that smell good in a hydrating face serum

    I think I would go with Floral Water you can Basically add them to the Water Phase and you can write Floral Water XXX on the INCI so no Perfume is added.

    You can although use some Plant Extracts that smell very pleasant like Chamomile or Calendula.

    Or depending on the Serum there is the possibility to add some Flower Waxes Like Jasmin and Rose to the Product. which has the smell of flowers without an INCI of Perfume.

    Phenoxyethanol does not smell a lot like a rose but there is phenethyl alcohol which smells like rose water but is not as complex as the rose flower.

  • gordof

    Member
    March 24, 2023 at 3:49 am in reply to: Natural hand wash formulation

    dear zoya

    It depends a little on what your “natural” claim means if you just want to use 100 % Naturally Derived Ingredients I would go in the following direction.

    Use :

    Cleanser:

    Potassium Cocoate Sodium (38%) Around 4.5%

    Coco-Sulfate (93%) around 10 %

    Decly Glycoside around 20 %

    Stearic Acid 15-20%

    Caustic Soda(50%) 4-5%

    Humactens

    Glycerin 20 -30%

    1.3-Propandiol 15-18%

    Conditioner:

    Guar Hydroxypropyltrionium Chloride 0.1-0.2%

    Production is easy. Heat everything to 85 °C let it stay at this temperature for a few minutes to have completed the Reactions and mixing. Let the air get out before pouring.

    Of course there are a lot of other formulations and variations out there but this one felt for me until know with my limited knowledge about bar products the best because of the high humectant amount and the conditioner.

  • gordof

    Member
    March 16, 2023 at 10:27 am in reply to: Professional hair care products

    hi from my point of few, there is not a lot of difference between what you can buy in the supermarket and the Hair Stylist. The Products have the same ingredients there is no special ingredient that you would only find in professional care Products.

    I think ist more of marketing and “being part of Premium Club”. “What costs more needs to be more efficient”. and so on.

    I see a lot of Test results for Hair Care products and mostly the cheap ones Perform not SOOOOOO much worse than the high price ones if the Ingredients are compared and sometimes the cheap ones even out perform the expensive onse.

  • hi did anything else change over the 3 days? ph? Appearance?

  • gordof

    Member
    March 14, 2023 at 5:17 am in reply to: Formulation

    you need to make a test I would say. you can either test water availability or just do a standard microbiological study. you will need that anyhow to get it through the authorities from my experience.

  • gordof

    Member
    February 27, 2023 at 7:42 am in reply to: What’s so much Lauric Acid doing in this body wash?

    They use it because of the whole coconut hype i would guess

    IN General, the Lauric acid which is a main part of coconut oil can penetrate the hair shaft and therefore “nourish” it.

    I Would say it is not a very good concept most of it will be Rinsed off either way but maybe it makes the skin fell very well conditioned and not Squicke clean and that is something dove always targeted in my experience due to the whole Story of “Creme body wash” form 20 years ago.

  • Well, it depends on which country you want to launch your products in.

    In Europe normally you need a Microbiotical Tests en Epicutan test and a Safty Accassment to launch a product. The person responsible for the safety assessment can argue that some test additional are needed or you can skip tests if you have a clear argumentation way. For Non-Water Based Products you don’t need to Perform a Microbiolotcal Study but you need a document in which you state the “way” you don’t need it.

    For Other regions in the World there might be additional or Variating Demands for a Product.

  • gordof

    Member
    February 22, 2023 at 6:13 am in reply to: Hair Matte pomade preservatives

    hi there

    Due to the fact that you’re making a hair product, I would estimate that you are in an Acidic ph range. So I would use Na-benzoate and Potassium Sorbate in combination the two are normally enough ( be aware of your regional limitations of the ingredients and don’t use more than 0,3 % of Potassium Sorbate because it could lead to skin reactions) if you need to boost the efficacy use a Pentyleneglycol at 2-5 %. I don’t see the necessity to combine Phenoxyethanol (which will just increase the risk of skin irritations) with the other two. If you want a totally “natural” approach you can use GMCY and some Natural acids like ) Sodium Levulinate (and) Sodium Anisate. i had both system working in a hair mask product with a bigger amount of Kaolin

  • gordof

    Member
    February 16, 2023 at 8:41 am in reply to: Allergic reactions to cosmetics

    hi there

    I would like to say 2 things.

    First, as long as you are using Fragrance you are always at risk of allergic reactions 26 Allergens are listed mainly in Europe they are discussing 80 something at the moment and more than 200 Allergens are known as components of perfumes. So you cannot eliminate that issue completely someone will always be allergic to one component or another.

    Second, if you know that the Perfume courses the Issue it’s worth taking a look to see if you are able to eliminate for example at least the 26 main allergens in the Perfume of your Product, so you can at least argue that you are already aware and searching for alternatives.

    The only other possibility would be to work completely without perfumes. And yes cosmetic brands are aware of that issue and most of them are not very into solving the issue due to consumer expectations of products (who would buy shampoo without any perfume on a normal shelf?).

    Sidenote: Trends like natural products are not very good for that issue as well because natural Fragrance oils are all containing at least 1 of the 26 main allergic ingredients.

    Hope that helps

  • gordof

    Member
    February 16, 2023 at 8:16 am in reply to: Plant extracts increase sun sensitivity?

    Dear Rimshah

    Plant extracts, in general, will not increase the problem of Photodermatitis. As long as you are sure that your Extracts do not contain ingredients that are able to course that kind of problem.

    Mainly I would say you need to be sure that no Furocumarie or Furosemide is Present. Mainly they are present in Citric Fruits. so avoid them. Although avoid Etherical oils for Suncare Products in general to avoid the problem.

    I only have a german article doesn’t have an English one sadly.

    Astaxanthin as I Remember correctly is not causing photosensitivity and will “boost the spf ” a little.

  • gordof

    Member
    February 8, 2023 at 4:30 am in reply to: Tricks & Tips for even mica dispersment

    hi, this topic is as broad as formulation can go.

    Basic Tips would be.

    Prepare a Matrix in which the mica is stabilized ( thickeners; solubilizers; Matrix ingredients like bentonite)

    Use Pigments that are modified for your system (water or oil affinity)

    Use a multiple-rotation cylinder system to get the mica as finely dispersed as possible in your formulation. if you do not have that use a Homogenizer with a very high speed to disperse evenly if you don’t have a homogenizer stop making color cosmetic

    use Specific oils with a very high spreadability to even out the tone. (will not help so much with the separation or setting of your mica but is part of the solution)

    maybe someone can give deeper dives but I would guess you need to share parts of your formulation at least what system you have (W/O; O/W; Gel) Amount of water, Thickeners used mica level, etc.

  • gordof

    Member
    January 27, 2023 at 6:28 am in reply to: Transforming cream to powder

    I personally like the Sunsil Sortiment from Sunjin Company for silica they have a great variety and if you describe your goal I would say they would be able to give you the direction of which to use. 

    if you want to go for starches I would go to Agrana they have several modified ones for different applications. I would guess tapioca or rice starches work better than corn and wheat because they are smaller and rounder in form and therefore have a nicer touch on the skin. 

    There are some cellulose types out there from Ethocel which have mattifying and soft focus effects. 

    But i guess there are a lot of other suppliers that can deliver similar quality and support in that matter. 

  • gordof

    Member
    January 26, 2023 at 12:29 pm in reply to: Transforming cream to powder

    hi 

    I was searching for that kind of product. several Recipes by suppliers that tackle a Crem to powder topic. 

    Cream to Powder (Formulation #EU04-0027) by Shin-Etsu Silicones Europe B.V. - Personal Care & Cosmetics (ulprospector.com)

    Cream to Powder Foundation (Formulation #M025) by Floratech®, a Cargill company - Personal Care & Cosmetics (ulprospector.com)

    Naturally Cream to Powder with AGENAFLO 9050 by AGRANA - Personal Care & Cosmetics (ulprospector.com)

    Maybe you find the solution you are seeking within them. i myself never developed a cream-to-powder formulation but I think it is a very sensitive matter of how much particles to use so that the after-feel and the finish is powdery but does not form aglomerates and stuff on the skin. 

  • gordof

    Member
    January 24, 2023 at 12:35 pm in reply to: Transforming cream to powder

    do you mean powdery Visual or the sensory of the product? 

    you can get sensory a powdery finish if you add silica powders or Starches.  there are a lot of types modified and un-modified depending on the formulation type and effect you want to get.  you can although get this sensory effect with the right emollients. For example, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate (Cetiol RLF) will give a very powdery after feel in the right amount is added to the formulation. Some silicon oils will give the same or even better effect. 

    For a visual effects, I don’t have an idea for that right away.

  • gordof

    Member
    January 18, 2023 at 11:43 am in reply to: Lipstick bullets : scuff marks and small bubbles

    For Preperation of the Form of your lipstick you can use a Foodgrade Silicon oil spray to layer the Mattel with the silicon. that will help to get a clear surface of the stick as well 

  • gordof

    Member
    January 17, 2023 at 12:51 pm in reply to: w/o formulation advise

    if you stay with a w/O the water loss of the skin will be already minimized due to the film that the cream will form on the skin. The Fatty layer will minimize water loss and increase the hydration of the skin over time. water absorbing ingredients like Glycerin and Hyaluronic acid will not work to their full potential I would say. to improve the “feeling” of hydration you could work with very high-spreading oils like Cetiol Ultimate or if you are allowed to use some silicone oil to make the customer feel smoothness which can be interpreted as a hydration immediate effect. 

    i am not a total expert on W/O formulations maybe someone with more experience can give further tips.

  • gordof

    Member
    January 17, 2023 at 10:32 am in reply to: Lipstick bullets : scuff marks and small bubbles

    For making Lipsticks it is very important that the temperature is very well controlled during the Pouring as well as the Cooling process. Otherwise, the waxes can blook or scruff marks form. The Pouring temperature depends a lot on the Recrystaliziation point of your Wax mixture. it needs to be very close to the point normally. 

  • gordof

    Member
    January 17, 2023 at 9:12 am in reply to: w/o formulation advise

    hi 

    well, W/O emulsions tend to be very fatty on the skin the Transport of all your water-soluble ingredients to the skin will be lower due to the Barrier function of the cream. They help with TEWL a lot but I am not sure if your customers would like that kind of feeling for a cream that has to be applied to the face. Of course, there are formulations out there that feel lighter but the formulation of this kind of W/O formulation can be very tricky especially if you have a lot of water-soluble ingredients. 

    I would suggest going to a O/W the texture is lighter and the richness of the cream is easier to adapt depending on the spreading cascade of your oils. Production although is much easier. 

    If you really want to stay with an W/O emulsion be sure to be aware of the incorporation of the water phase to the oil phase very slowly for most emulsifiers that will achieve an w/O emulsion.

  • gordof

    Member
    January 11, 2023 at 10:14 am in reply to: Help! Shampoo Separation ????

    hi there

    do you get a clear shower gel or is it cloudy at the start? 

    what is separating exactly did you analyze? is it a small separation and oily (the fragrance?) is it a bigger separation in two phases completely?

    it is a lot of surfactants there and you don’t homogenize a surfactant-based shampoo normally it is very difficult in production to not make a foaming party in the vessel and it should not be necessary in a shampoo. (not cream shampoo of course but yours don’t look like a cream shampoo) 

    as George said cetrimonium chloride dose not like anionic surfactant bases normally in small amounts it forms complexes with the anionics that are ok and can be held by the system but 5 % is a huge amount normal use concentration in shampoo would be 0.1-0.5% max I would say.    

  • gordof

    Member
    January 9, 2023 at 7:32 am in reply to: O/W emulsion water leakage issue

    hmm ok, I would say thickener and emulsifier can not be the reason. with 0,4 and 1 % they are not to high. what about the ph of the formulation? 

    If you think it would be the reddish Ferment did you try it without that ingredient to see if the problem still is there? 

  • gordof

    Member
    January 6, 2023 at 6:20 am in reply to: O/W emulsion water leakage issue

    hmm can you share how much Tickener you are using? Sometimes if you have to mutch emulsifier and thickener the water is squeezed out of the structure.

    sorry don’t have a better idea from what you wrote. to give better help we would need at least general levels of oil phase/water Phase/thickener/emulsifier ratios.

    another thing can be the ph of your formulation maybe it is to low for the emulsifier and xanthan gum doesn’t like ph that is to low as well. 

  • gordof

    Member
    January 6, 2023 at 6:13 am in reply to: what is the function of Dicalcium Phosphate in stick formulation

    I guess it is used as a helper for a clean scrub of from the stick to the skin. it brakes the crystal structure of the wax and makes the stick easier to apply without losing the heat stability of the stick in general. although it helps to mattify the tone of the stick I would guess from the INCI it is a foundation stick or something similar. 

  • gordof

    Member
    February 27, 2023 at 7:36 am in reply to: Hair Matte pomade preservatives

    it works better at lower ph but it starts to function around ph 5.5

    normally the Bezoate and Sorbate come in Saltform so Sodium or Potassium and they Dissolve easily in the water if you add them first (the sorbate faster than the Benzoate)

    As far as I know for a hair pomade I did not encounter problems with any . but you never know all things so no 100 % guarantee depending on ingredients.

  • gordof

    Member
    February 24, 2023 at 4:24 am in reply to: Hair Matte pomade preservatives

    Small addition for HAir products it is good to have a lower ph it is beneficial for the cuticula of the Hair. best is between 4,5 and 5.0 preservation that is acid based will although work better at lower ph normally (you can go too low with Potassium sorbate and it can separate than but in my experience this occurse around 2,5- 3.0

    it makes a difference in touch.

  • gordof

    Member
    February 17, 2023 at 4:00 am in reply to: Allergic reactions to cosmetics

    Lavender oil is allergies wise not very tolerated as all essential oils are not good for Perfum-allergic people.

    It contains depending on the field it Groth on

    Around 40-50 % linalool

    0.5-2 % Geraniol

    0.5-2% Limonene

    0.1-0.5% Coumarin

    Linalool is known to be one of the substances most allergic reactions occur for Percetice wise in the Population.

    and the others are although in the list of the 26 Potent Allergiens for Perfume Products and need to be declared separately on the INCI

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