Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup Lipstick bullets : scuff marks and small bubbles

  • Lipstick bullets : scuff marks and small bubbles

    Posted by Tal on January 11, 2023 at 10:12 pm

    Why are my 12 cavity metal plates, causing scuff marks when i remove my bullets.  If i increase the wax my payoff is compromised  

    What are some basic troubleshooting tips..

    The product is stabel, and has won beauty industry awards so far for clients.  Ive tried a new plate, same outcome.

    Any ideas on how to reduce this “matt” blotchy look on an otherwise shiny bullet.

    ChemistGuy replied 3 months, 2 weeks ago 6 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    January 11, 2023 at 10:29 pm

    Can you post a picture…. and formula?

    Maybe the scuff marks….are bloom?

    If it is bloom….take a look at Chemical Matt’s hack…in the following link:

    why crystal forms in healing butter after few days of batch preparation — Cosmetic Science Talk (chemistscorner.com)

  • gordof

    Member
    January 17, 2023 at 10:32 am

    For making Lipsticks it is very important that the temperature is very well controlled during the Pouring as well as the Cooling process. Otherwise, the waxes can blook or scruff marks form. The Pouring temperature depends a lot on the Recrystaliziation point of your Wax mixture. it needs to be very close to the point normally. 

  • Tal

    Member
    January 17, 2023 at 1:06 pm

  • Tal

    Member
    January 17, 2023 at 1:10 pm

    This is the effect. Thankyou for your comments. 

    If we were to assess this from a method perspective, what is the best practice for

    1. Cleaning the plate or mold and 2. Is there any other preparation i can try on the metal  surface prior to injecting?

  • Devesh327

    Member
    January 18, 2023 at 6:49 am

    Tal said:

    This is the effect. Thankyou for your comments. 

    If we were to assess this from a method perspective, what is the best practice for

    1. Cleaning the plate or mold and 2. Is there any other preparation i can try on the metal  surface prior to injecting?

    I generally use IPM to dab the mold/dye if the stick does not look shiny enough. Use a cotton cloth, dip it in isopropylmyristate and swab the plate cavity, repeat after 20-25 uses. 

    I second @Gordof on the temperature issue. You have to be careful with that, however with the picture you have provided, I see the pigment is disturbed. Try grinding the pigment finely & maybe use a dispersing agent. Make sure there is no air bubbles while you pour the lipstick in your dye. 

    You may want to try pouring  with a new dye too. Sometimes we use sharp objects to clean the dye, Try not to use sharp objects. 
     

  • Tal

    Member
    January 18, 2023 at 7:10 am

    Thankyou. I will try the . Good idea!

    I appreciate the feedback. I will try ipm. 

  • gordof

    Member
    January 18, 2023 at 11:43 am

    For Preperation of the Form of your lipstick you can use a Foodgrade Silicon oil spray to layer the Mattel with the silicon. that will help to get a clear surface of the stick as well 

    • ChemistGuy

      Member
      February 14, 2024 at 10:13 pm

      In my opinion, the best silicone that has worked for me when cleaning/preparing the lipstick mould is Dimethicone 10cSt

  • Tal

    Member
    January 18, 2023 at 12:18 pm

    Oh great. I will try this also thankyou.

  • michaelpolymer

    Member
    January 27, 2023 at 11:40 pm

    Add some highly shrinkable wax, carnauba wax, plus some low shrinkage wax, candelilla wax to balance the shrinkage effect, these waxes all have smooth surfaces.

  • Tal

    Member
    August 8, 2023 at 2:18 am

    So to update we have reduced bubbles by reducing the injection temp

    We still get the scuffy bullet, i think that has somewhat improved by releasing tension off the bullet, as we push the case down, to release into packaging.

    Higher ti02 content was causing more mini bubbles its an ongoing love hate still…

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