Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Transforming cream to powder

  • Transforming cream to powder

    Posted by Storm on January 24, 2023 at 2:01 am

    Hi all,

    I’m looking to develope a transforming cream to powder product for skincare.

    I know this concept exists in makeup where there’s some pigment present but wondering if there’s a special emulsifier or specialty ingredient to make this type of product for skincare with no powder present? 

    A highly emollient product that leaves no oily residue with a dry powdery finish.

    Appreciate all comments in advance.

    Storm replied 10 months, 1 week ago 3 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • gordof

    Member
    January 24, 2023 at 12:35 pm

    do you mean powdery Visual or the sensory of the product? 

    you can get sensory a powdery finish if you add silica powders or Starches.  there are a lot of types modified and un-modified depending on the formulation type and effect you want to get.  you can although get this sensory effect with the right emollients. For example, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate (Cetiol RLF) will give a very powdery after feel in the right amount is added to the formulation. Some silicon oils will give the same or even better effect. 

    For a visual effects, I don’t have an idea for that right away.

  • pharma

    Member
    January 24, 2023 at 4:00 pm

    Gordof said:


    For a visual effects, I don’t have an idea for that right away.

    Wouldn’t that be those ingredients having a ‘soft focus’ or ‘matte’ effect? Certain silicones and modified starches and the like would, again, fit that bill.

  • Storm

    Member
    January 25, 2023 at 12:37 pm

    Gordof said:

    do you mean powdery Visual or the sensory of the product? 

    you can get sensory a powdery finish if you add silica powders or Starches.  there are a lot of types modified and un-modified depending on the formulation type and effect you want to get.  you can although get this sensory effect with the right emollients. For example, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate (Cetiol RLF) will give a very powdery after feel in the right amount is added to the formulation. Some silicon oils will give the same or even better effect. 

    For a visual effects, I don’t have an idea for that right away.

    Thanks for the comment. I mean both visual and sensory. A product that pumps like a cream for ease of use then physically turns to powder upon rubbing on the skin. Not even sure if such thing is possible but would be great to avoid the mess that powders make…
    The opposite concept is possible using silica dimethyl silylate for a powder to cream application.
    The product should be occlusive and highly emollient hence I did not consider silica powders or Starches as they absorb oil and can leave a chalky dry after feel. Did you have a special silica powder or Starch grade in mind without chalky residue? 
    Thanks

  • Storm

    Member
    January 25, 2023 at 12:40 pm

    Pharma said:

    Gordof said:


    For a visual effects, I don’t have an idea for that right away.

    Wouldn’t that be those ingredients having a ‘soft focus’ or ‘matte’ effect? Certain silicones and modified starches and the like would, again, fit that bill.

    Thanks for the comment. What modified starch grade would you recommend?
    Cheers

  • gordof

    Member
    January 26, 2023 at 12:29 pm

    hi 

    I was searching for that kind of product. several Recipes by suppliers that tackle a Crem to powder topic. 

    Cream to Powder (Formulation #EU04-0027) by Shin-Etsu Silicones Europe B.V. - Personal Care & Cosmetics (ulprospector.com)

    Cream to Powder Foundation (Formulation #M025) by Floratech®, a Cargill company - Personal Care & Cosmetics (ulprospector.com)

    Naturally Cream to Powder with AGENAFLO 9050 by AGRANA - Personal Care & Cosmetics (ulprospector.com)

    Maybe you find the solution you are seeking within them. i myself never developed a cream-to-powder formulation but I think it is a very sensitive matter of how much particles to use so that the after-feel and the finish is powdery but does not form aglomerates and stuff on the skin. 

  • Storm

    Member
    January 27, 2023 at 3:57 am

    @Gordof Thanks for that.
    I’ve come across those on Prospector too. They’re all foundation creams (makeup) containing pigments and the product is in paste form (hot fill) not a cream. I may have to substitute those powders with some kind of starch and keep the consistency pumpable. I’ll do a couple of trials to see how it goes…
    What silica powder or Starch would you recommend?
    Cheers

  • gordof

    Member
    January 27, 2023 at 6:28 am

    I personally like the Sunsil Sortiment from Sunjin Company for silica they have a great variety and if you describe your goal I would say they would be able to give you the direction of which to use. 

    if you want to go for starches I would go to Agrana they have several modified ones for different applications. I would guess tapioca or rice starches work better than corn and wheat because they are smaller and rounder in form and therefore have a nicer touch on the skin. 

    There are some cellulose types out there from Ethocel which have mattifying and soft focus effects. 

    But i guess there are a lot of other suppliers that can deliver similar quality and support in that matter. 

  • Storm

    Member
    January 27, 2023 at 12:35 pm

    Thanks for the recommendations. I’ll start with contacting a couple of suppliers and take it from there  :)

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