Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Hair Matte pomade preservatives

  • Hair Matte pomade preservatives

    Posted by MariaSibon on February 20, 2023 at 5:16 am

    Dear all,

    I am developing a formula for an aqua based hair pomade.

    Water is around 50% and kaolin 10%.

    I am going to ask some preservative samples from supplier together with some I have in stock, to investigate their efficancy.

    Do you have any experience or advise for the specific preservatives and/or for the specific application?

    1)Phenoxyethanol and Glyceryl Laurate (emollient/booster)

    2)Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid.

    3)Phenoxyethanol, Piroctone Olamine

    4)Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben

    I have personally used 1 many times, but I am aware that i need something stronger.

    I have seen benchmarks using Phenoxyethanol/Ethylhexylglycerin, which I think it will not be efficient, and phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben , propyl paraben, this one I want to avoid propylparaben.

    Thank you in advance,

    PhilGeis replied 3 months ago 5 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • gordof

    Member
    February 22, 2023 at 6:13 am

    hi there

    Due to the fact that you’re making a hair product, I would estimate that you are in an Acidic ph range. So I would use Na-benzoate and Potassium Sorbate in combination the two are normally enough ( be aware of your regional limitations of the ingredients and don’t use more than 0,3 % of Potassium Sorbate because it could lead to skin reactions) if you need to boost the efficacy use a Pentyleneglycol at 2-5 %. I don’t see the necessity to combine Phenoxyethanol (which will just increase the risk of skin irritations) with the other two. If you want a totally “natural” approach you can use GMCY and some Natural acids like ) Sodium Levulinate (and) Sodium Anisate. i had both system working in a hair mask product with a bigger amount of Kaolin

    • MariaSibon

      Member
      February 24, 2023 at 1:54 am

      Thank you for your comment.

      Yes that is right, my formulation variations are in the range of pH =5,0-5,5, so using on a blend of Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate salts it would not be a problem. I am not interested for “natural” or “eco” claims, I just want to make sure preservation system will be efficient, as I have seen many cases of matte waxes go bad in the market, or have very short PAO.

      • gordof

        Member
        February 24, 2023 at 4:24 am

        Small addition for HAir products it is good to have a lower ph it is beneficial for the cuticula of the Hair. best is between 4,5 and 5.0 preservation that is acid based will although work better at lower ph normally (you can go too low with Potassium sorbate and it can separate than but in my experience this occurse around 2,5- 3.0

        it makes a difference in touch.

        • MariaSibon

          Member
          February 24, 2023 at 5:44 am

          Thank you for your comment.

          Yes, I am aware for the pH effect on hair, although I believe for a styling product a pH 5-5,5 is good enough.

          I understand that if I am using the Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate blend I will need to optimise the pH to 4,5-5 as you suggest as this will optimise the preservation efficiency, although supplier claims it works up to pH 5,5.

          Is the powder easily dissolved in water phase? Any compabitibility issues that I should be aware?

          Thank you

          • gordof

            Member
            February 27, 2023 at 7:36 am

            it works better at lower ph but it starts to function around ph 5.5

            normally the Bezoate and Sorbate come in Saltform so Sodium or Potassium and they Dissolve easily in the water if you add them first (the sorbate faster than the Benzoate)

            As far as I know for a hair pomade I did not encounter problems with any . but you never know all things so no 100 % guarantee depending on ingredients.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    February 22, 2023 at 10:41 am

    I prefer in this order

    4,3,2,1

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    February 22, 2023 at 12:12 pm

    1 and 3 are little more thanphenoxy and marketing.

    Divalent cations (this context)Salts of organic acids can mitigate their limited solubility/efficacy

    • MariaSibon

      Member
      February 24, 2023 at 1:49 am

      Thank you very much for your comment.

      So, if I understand well, you think 1,3 is more marketing than suitable preservatives?

      With regards to organic acids, my supplier has the option of ready to use :

      i)Phenoxyethanol+Sorbic Acid, Benzoic acid

      and another option of powder blend of

      ii) Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate.

      If I understand well your comment, even if I manage to solubilise (i) in my preparation, will their efficiency be limited due to low solubility of organic acids in the water phase?

      Do you think (ii) will more efficient versus (i)?

      I apologise in advance for my multiple questions, I am trying to learn more regarding preservatives since it is difficult to source information from suppliers regarding their efficiency and suitability in products.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    March 2, 2023 at 10:05 am

    #1 is a good better system with pH control.

    The organic acids alone or in combination are poor - at any pH. At acidic pH, they mainly target fungi and Gram positive bacteria and are very weak vs. Gram negatives - the most common contaminants. they can also form poorly soluble salts with divalent cations like Mg and Ca - that you might find with kaolin. Phenoxy is best for Gram negatives . Here too. kaolin may screw you up - might absorb the phenoxy. A chelator would help but that too could be screwed up with divalent cations from kaolin

    #1 combination should give you a good start.

    • Fekher

      Member
      March 11, 2024 at 12:07 pm

      For water based hair wax can sensicare 1090(phenoxyethanol +ethyl glycerin) do the job for good preservation? I then a combination of 0.8%phenoxyethanol +0.2 benzoate de sodium is it efficient for the same products.

      If not increasing the level of phenoxyethanol +benzoate de sodium can lead to good preservation or did you recommend any adequate preservative for based hair pomade containing 30%of ceteareth 20?

      • PhilGeis

        Member
        March 11, 2024 at 1:52 pm

        Check with challenge testing. 0.5-0.8 Phenoxy/EHG/with lower pH Na benzoate. If you end more efficacy - add benzyl alcohol. In some formulas, it works well with benzoate.

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