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gordof
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gordof
MemberJuly 19, 2023 at 6:20 am in reply to: “Frosty” patch on the surface of anhydrous ointmentdose it happen if you put a cling film over the surface of your product while cooling down? (really on the surface directly not over the Conntainer it self )
Maybe it absorbs a little bit o water from the surrounding air if humidity is high that can lead to a cloudy fog-like appearance but only in the top area of the product.
best wishes
Tobias
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gordof
MemberJuly 17, 2023 at 3:31 am in reply to: Most logical (science based) thickener for formulas with non-polar hydrocarbons?hmm, Scientifically I would say it depends on the emulsion type you have. i would think you are talking about an O/W emulsion
for O/W emulsions to stabilize thickening you can add a gum Thikener or a polymer that is active within the Water Phase. the Polymeric network will form around your Oil phase and it will only be affected by an oil-soluble ingredient in that case that if the inner phase gets bigger viscosity will slightly change because of that.
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hi in rice flour you have around 75-80% of starch content. 25-20 % are other components. I would use Rice Starch for a Dry shampoo base because you want the absorption part of the Rice Flour and that’s the starch so way use the other part that just adds stuff that can course problems to your formulation 🙂
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hmm for me it sounds like a uv Indicated Reaction. Oxidative is possible. Does it happen in the Dark as well?
Maybe you can add something that absorbs that out of the formulation. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate might help.
I think because of the coloration to green it sounds like you have a lot of Ion reaction with the copper. what kind of water are you using are you adding other ingredients that have a bigger load of Iones like Xantan for example?
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At Incosmetics EUrop This year they Presented an AI Tool wich is a labformulation and Documentation programm.
The results they showed in the Presentation wear very interesting the AI was able to Propose formulations that 80% of the time wear stable Formulations. If not Stable with small adjustments from a Traind Chemist got it stable. I my self think of myself as a good Cosmetic Chemist and i don’t have that kind of accuracy if i don’t use an already existing formulation out of our systems and adapt it for the purpose needed.
they just started to Collect data and even if I see some issues with who the formulation belongs to and so on, I think tools like this will change the Formulation further rather dramatically. wear you needed 3 Formulatore today you will maybe need 1 that does the fine Work and the adaptions for the customers based on the Formulations the AI will generate. and yes i know that the Formulations will probably all feel very similar and have a kind of generic formulation parameters than and i do not like this idea but i don’t think that many customers would recognize the difference between the two formulations that are decently developed from the skin feeling. The Biggest Decision making for the First buy is the advertisement and Scent of the product and if that fits the need of the customer if the formulation is ok the rebuy can be generated. And at the end that is what companies want to generate. If a Cream that is developed by a formulation Expert is always better in a way the Costoumer can Clearly destigueisch I am not sure at least if I look into the Formulations that some of my colleges are putting into the market (unstabel 2 Phased Fetty unpleasant etc.
I think this will in one or another way get to us in the next 5 to 10 years.
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You will probably get ambivalent Awnsers on that . The use of GSM and Cetarlyalcohl as stabilizers is a decision made on personal experiences :). I myself would suggest increasing the Cetaryl alcohol instead of the GSM maybe 2 to 3 %. Your emulsion seems already fine so I would increase the structure viscosity instead of the Emulsion Droplet size Viscosity.
Caracole and Vulcanic ash are 2 Different things one is made out of Organic Wood Material burned and grinded up. The other is Made from Molten Stone grinded up . The number of electrolytes as well as the Particle behavior would be very different in my opinion. I think volcanic ash is way heavier because it is denser than charcoal and the surface absorption will be not as good for Vulcanic ash I would guess (never worked with it).
2 % Tocopherylacetate is not a low amount. 0,2 -0,5 I would say is a normal amount for a Skin Care Product but in your case, it is a heavy material and will be washed off anyway if you perform a cleansing after scrubbing so if you don’t need it for Marketing reasons take it out and if you need it for marketing reasons use a low amount 0.05 to 0.1 % should be enough.
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gordof
MemberJuly 11, 2023 at 2:26 am in reply to: Anyone have experience using liquid soap for a scrub?well if you use it right away it will Propoly work. if you add grain salt or Suger to a normal Liquid Soap Formulation it will dissolve and destabilize your formulation over a longer time.
So if you are adding the scrub particles to the soap and use it right after it will work but not in the long run you would need to adapt the formulation so that the srub particles will not dissolve and not separate from the product.
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if you are Formulation a Warming Oil without any water content the Warming effect of hot Flux will be reduced and it can lead to an interesting effect. When you apply the oil it does not warm up but as soon as you go under the shower or add water in another way the heat sensation kicks in.
I had several Hot Flux Formulations on my table in the last several years and one was an Oil Spray and it did not get any warming sensation at all with only oil.
The Suplayer told me that the Hot flux mechanism on the skin needs some water to be triggered. the water from sweating often is not enough so be aware of that phenomenon and try it yourself with an oil-based formulation first on the skin and adding water afterward to trigger the effect.
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For a Thothpaste you can use Foamed Silica to Thicken the oil and give it a Structer. That will reduce the separation process quite well. although you get already the Particular structure you need to clean the surface of the teeth.
the Zeodent from Evonic is made especially for mouth care. I am not 100 % sure you can make a 100 % Oil Toothpaste but give it a try would be interesting to know if it would work.
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do you add the Stearic Acid to be saponified with a Base like NaOH?
Normale you can buy Stearic Acid Granualated or Palleted so Taking everything out should not be a problem. if you get it as a Block or a 250 kg Vassel you can melt it before Production to Incorporate it into the main vessel at above 70 °C.
On the Question of the book I don’t know but I guess there are some general books on how to Produce on a bigger scale but I actually don’t know one to recommend.
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gordof
MemberJuly 3, 2023 at 3:10 am in reply to: How to dupe the finish of a commercial foundationcould you explain what you mean when you talk about “the finish” of the Product? Is it the skin feeling water resistance the Final color?
Depending on what you mean different ingredients are responsible for each and some overlap.
Could you clarify pleas?
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hi
it is not a direct oil thickener but you can make very interesting oil gel-like textures with the ingredients from Alchemy
Find an ingredient | Alchemy Ingredients (alchemy-ingredients.com)
I have very interesting results with them Only production needs to be handled very delicately at first but if you know what you do you can make very pleasant and nice clear oil “gel” formulations.
alchemy-ingredients.com
Find the right ingredient in a few clicks using the Alchemy Ingredients finder
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gordof
MemberJune 14, 2023 at 6:22 am in reply to: Ingredients that can help increase the staying power.. of watery productshmm never used one for a deodorant before. Depending on the country you want to sell your product it can be rather difficult to use a filmformer. In the USA, for example, man tends to keep their armpit Hair in general (of course there is a percentage that shaves) the Filmormer will then sit on the hair and that will probably feel like using a Hairspray for your armpit. Although the armpit is an area that is very much in movement all the time and it could lead to very unpleasant irritating Stinging because of the formed film.
The only one I know of that is flexible enough for that would be polyurethane. For example, Baycusan types are used as Fixatif for Makeup.
For Perfume Fixation on the skin, I would recommend looking into the raw materials in the link
as you can see you can use for example Phenoxyethanol to Fixate a scent to the skin more persistent and at the same time can do your Preservation.
I always used some Triethyl Citrate it works as a deodorant active and at the same time makes the perfume more long-lasting in the Hart note of the scent.
Although if you have the feeling that the scent of the used perfume is fainting too fast contact your perfume supplier and ask them for a more Persistent variant of the perfume you preferred they have a lot of knowledge about how to fix a scent for hours on the skin by combining the right scent components.
But over all, i don’t think you can fixate the Deodorant to live throughout a shower or a swim so that it dose does not need to be applied afterward if that is your goal.
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gordof
MemberJune 14, 2023 at 2:23 am in reply to: Ingredients that can help increase the staying power.. of watery productswhat you are searching for is Water Resistance ?? if so you can use Film formers. There are a lot of different film formers out there most are Polymers or Silikones that help improve water resistance on the skin.
There are some “natural enhancers out there effectiveness depends a lot on different parameters.
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the Carbomer will only build gel correctly if you get the Ph of your product above 6.0, yes sometimes the carbomer gets a little thick before. but the clear gel only is obtained by adding something that pushes the ph. Normally depending on the carbomer Triethanolamine is used ( TEA ? just thought it was that 🙂 ) Other Carbomers use NaOH to neutralize the Carbomer. Your supplier will give you the best neutralizing agent for the highest viscosity with his product.
A Clear Gel is only obtained after Neutralization. During this process, the air is easily entered in the formulation because the gel forms rather quickly and the air you have stirred in will not have the chance to separate form your formulation anymore.
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in the laboratory, it will be difficult to remove air bubbles from a thick gel.
I would Try to add the TEA at the end and after you stopped your Stirring for a few minutes and remove all the air out of the nonqualified carbomer solution.
After adding the TEA just stier very gental so that no air is incorporated.
you can buy special stirrers like Viscojet steerer they are designed to steer very well without air entrapment.
You can Try to put your Beaker under Vakkum in an Exicator overnight to see if you would be able to remove the air in the Production with Vakkum or not.
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gordof
MemberJune 7, 2023 at 6:51 am in reply to: Number of hours your deo lasts (to write on the label)well in Europe at least you need to make a test like it is described in Phil’s link. You cannot just claim up to 24h you need to have a test if you want to write any number on it that shows that a trained pennel does not sniff out any sweat smell on a Test pennel over the time you want to mention on your deodorant.
OFcours you can get through as long as your safety assessor does not want to see the test but normally they will kill the claim if it is not somehow tested.
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Fragrance-free is a very niche product type in my professional experience even if it is necessary for some people it is a clear minority. You can target that group and sell your product in this Niche you will have less competition. but if not I guess you need Perfume.
If you want to be available for allergic people or sensitive people you can ask your perfume / Fragrance house to make it Without the main Allergen ingredients depending on the country you are in so you can promote an Allergen free formulation with scent. you can even go overboard and include the upcoming allergens from the near future which then gives you the possibility of not having to change the perfume in a few months when the new regulations drop ( Europe)
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another possibility would be Methyllactate.
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gordof
MemberJune 5, 2023 at 1:30 am in reply to: 'Broad Spectrum' definition…. is it the same as 'Natural'….undefined?hi Graillotion
The definition of Broad Spectrum is very lax. It just means that it is not targeting a special family of bacteria or is only effective against one special bacteria. As soon as your Conservation works against any gram + and gram- it is a broad spectrum Conservation system. In that definition is not mentioned how effective it is against either one of the Bacteria types and if it is Targeting all of the Bacteria in that Categorie or just a few. the Systematic in which they work is not Special let’s say for one specific receptor of a bacteria that then block reproduction or anything they work mostly by targeting the general living parts of the bacteria like the Cellmembrane or Watercontet etc.
Sadly as far as I know there is no hard-line definition for that so you just have to show that it kills different bacteria and you’re good with the claim from a Seller point of few.
YMF is not included in that Definition sadly or at least the mold and Fungai parts are not because that is not bacteria it’s a fungus and they are not included even if it is one of the most important parts of Product Protection. So a Brod spectrum conservation does not have to work against them at all even if most have some effect on them.
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the ingredients need to be listed if they sell online. a short look it said as you mentioned Isopropyl alcohol and Perfume.
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Dear pbs
I am not a Perfumer so my tip is more on the practical side of incorporating different essential oils into a formulation. Normally, in Europe, for a safety assessment of your product, you need to provide an Epicutan Test to show that the product dose not harass the skin. All other parts can be cleared with the IFRA certificate from your supplier of the essential oil. In that, you find the maximum Use concentration of this specific Essential oil in the product category you are targeting. it will be looked at for each essential oil separately.
If you want to be absolutely sure that your Essential oils are not harmful in any way and the combination of them is ok in the wished concentration of your finished product you have the possibility to go to a Perfume producing company and tell them what you want to have and they will give you a blend of the Essential oils which then has a separate IFRA certificate with maximum use concentration depending on the application.
The Perfume Companys have programs to calculate the maximum amounts of use depending on the Raw materials they are using. This is not an easy process especially with essential oils because as they are created of natural ingredients the scents can be various with ingredients. Rose oil from Africa will have different scent oils inside than one from America depending on the soil it grows on the water it gets the mineralization etc. For example, we had once a rosemary oil from Bulgary that could be used up to 15 % in Body applications. The Rosmarin oil from the same supplier from Spain could only be used up to 0.6 % in the same application.
so these kinds of programs exist but need to be fed with the right information from the analyses of the Raw material supplier and I don’t think they are available for non-Perfum Companys or let’s say they are too expensive.
so, in my opinion, the best way to be sure is either to look at each IFRA certificate for each essential oil you want to use or get a blend with its own IFRA certificate from a perfume Production company.
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I can really recommend the thickener Rheozan® SH | Solvay it is a natural thickener that has ( depending on the concentration of course) a very silky and nonsticky after feel it goes for 10 sec into a sticky moment while drying on the skin but afterward, the gel network feels very pleasant and silky on the skin. you can get around the sticky moment by adding some high-middle spreading emollients to give a sensory counterpart to the short time of stickiness.
Other than that I can only say don’t use too many humectants like glycerin they tend to feel sticky so be aware of your plant extracts and what is used in them and how high you can concentrate them in your formulation.
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I am not sure.
I would guess hydrophobic Cotet Pigments will make it easier but I don’t have any experience with that kind of system sorry maybe someone with more experience in color cosmetics can give additional advice if you want to combine carbomers with color pigments.
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The software was Coptis
I think you are right if you say it’s not better than a cosmetic chemist with a booklet of basic formulations but in my opinion, it’s faster and cheaper than a Cosmetic Chemist.
Yes, in the end, you need someone to Produce and test the Material but some of the Thinking will be taken over and will no longer need manpower in a company and the person that is Performing this work will maybe no longer need to be a Chemist at all because they are just producing and testing what a system is telling them to do. Although yes at the moment it does maybe not seem as impressive but it just started that is the first version they are willing to put into the market if a few years go on i think it will be more and more a tool to be aware of .
I see the issues with data and where they are getting the data and how reliable they are but Companys like Evonik already started to make things like the Kalaidoskop to make development easier and i would think there are some companies willing to share and anonymize their formulations and know-how out of there copits database to get access to the tool.
And yes I know that copis is not always the best tool that way i did not include the name because in my opinion, it’s just the first one to provide something others will do in the end as well in some way 🙂 Agree to Disagree on that point.
ps sorry if i come on to strong 😉