Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Most logical (science based) thickener for formulas with non-polar hydrocarbons?

  • Most logical (science based) thickener for formulas with non-polar hydrocarbons?

    Posted by Graillotion on July 11, 2023 at 9:25 pm

    Well…apparently I am the only one that loses viscosity when I add non-polar hydrocarbons to a formula.

    As I really want to add C13-15 Alkane to a formula…let me ask my question a little differently.

    What is the best way to thicken a cream formula which will include C13-15 Alkane from a scientific standpoint, and staying within the parameters of a pleasant skin loving emulsion?

    I will use my basic cream emulsifier package of Mont 202/165/GSC at a ratio of 6/4/1. As the builders are typically also the thickeners…. this is where I need the input.

    I have fatty alcohols of C16, C16 & C18 (50/50), and C22. I have gums, and polymerics. And I have some waxy ester type thickeners like Myristyl Myristate and Cetyl Palmitate/Esters.

    What would be your ideal thickening thought process be…with the hydrocarbons being a concern?

    Graillotion replied 9 months, 1 week ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • gordof

    July 17, 2023 at 3:31 am

    hmm, Scientifically I would say it depends on the emulsion type you have. i would think you are talking about an O/W emulsion

    for O/W emulsions to stabilize thickening you can add a gum Thikener or a polymer that is active within the Water Phase. the Polymeric network will form around your Oil phase and it will only be affected by an oil-soluble ingredient in that case that if the inner phase gets bigger viscosity will slightly change because of that.

  • chemicalmatt

    July 19, 2023 at 11:58 am

    Not the only one…many encounter the same phenomenon. Luckily, the solution is simple: use an associative thickener such as HASE polymers (hydrophobic alkali swellable acrylic emulsifiers). Rapidgel EZ1, Aculyns, Acrysols, even some Sepigels work like this and drop them in at start or end depending on how much mixing you foresee. If you need to use a lot of shear then add at end ’cause these will entrain air.

  • Graillotion

    July 20, 2023 at 3:36 am

    Thank you Gordof and @chemicalmatt .

    Matt, at the moment I only have Zen (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6), and EZ 4U (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) . Are these acceptable replacements for the HASE polymers? In the past I kept Aristoflex AVC, but in my humid climate…I could not keep it in good shape…even with silica packets! 🙁

    Any of them a particularly better choice than others under these circumstances (O/W emulsion).

    BTW… Lotioncrafters never did end up with your Rapidgel EZ1.

    • This reply was modified 9 months, 1 week ago by  Graillotion.
    • This reply was modified 9 months, 1 week ago by  Graillotion.
    • This reply was modified 9 months, 1 week ago by  Graillotion.

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