chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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Three words here: use more esters. You’ll feel better.
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Pemulens and Sepigels will NOT spray, only stream out of the closure. Most polymers behave the same. You won’t get much “sprayable” there. I use polyglyceryl esters of fatty acid (PEFA) emulsifiers for sprayable milks, e.g. polyglcyeryl-6 laurate, polycglyceryl-4 stearate or polyglyceryl-10 caprate, etc. Choose your poison but stay away from the multi-esters (any di, tri, penta, etc.) and buddy it up with glyceryl stearate or oleate or another monoester.
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This went into another direction, but I’ll answer your original query. Amodimethicone has a higher charge/mass ratio than the silicone quat, and it is capable of coacervating with that surfactant combo especially if you are using polyquternium-10 also. It is also much less expensive. My vote goes for that material.
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20 Volume peroxide is 6.0% w/w since the SpG is close enough to 1.000, and standard concentration of commercial H2O2 FCC grade is 35.0% w/w. Just do the math.
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@Ghita37, it appears you have a skincare product or brand you are attempting to launch and grow? If that is the case, try Tik Tok. Works for millions.
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@Fekher there is a much simpler explanation here. You are attempting to add a water-based keratin into a silicone-based anhydrous serum? No can do, my friend. Water and silicone mixture is a non-starter, you will always get haze. When you see proteins added to these frizz control serums it is added at the 0.0001% level just for label copy. As many have stated here before: there ought to be a law.
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I agree with everyone here on the futility, although these folks probably (falsely) believe all that crap about geraniol, lemon oil and rosemary oil working as a “preservative system” we all know to be bunk. So I dunno’ ’bout the preservation - but every time I see glycerin added to a cleansing product I GET VERY ANGRY!!! One more time: friends, don’t let friends add glycerin to products meant to foam and cleanse. It will not humectify, nor clean, nor coacervate with any surfactant; it will only depress your foam, crash your viscosity then flush right down the sewer into the abyss. This is a substance abuse problem among cosmetic chemists and there needs to be an intervention.
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The short answer here is: affirmative. All will emulsify dimethicone with limits on loading. Better if you can add a PEGylated dimethicone as co-emulsifier. Better yet use the BETAC instead of CETAC for best result. I’ve found the behenyl quat combined with SPDMA/Lactic acid works best for emulsifying silicone oils. An aside: unless it is already part of a silicone gum blend ingredient in the formula, I’ve never understood why anyone would add D4/D5 cyclomethicone alone into a cream or lotion for topical use, or a hair conditioner. It does not do anything but evaporate; why it’s called “volatile silicone.”
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Certain manual bath bomb presses can be bought with the disc former mold. Check them out.
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That is the classic model used by many a chemist. I say go for it.
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I don’t see any rheology stabilizer in there @akrep. That is likely your problem, especially with all those powders.
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If the antioxidant property is indicated for unsaturated lipids in your formula, then 70% tocopherols should be pro-rated according to your lipid content roughly 0.10% for every 7.0% lipids, or use the rosemary oleoresin as @CedarWind108 suggests as long as you don’t mind that pinkish hue to the product. If you are adding this just as a direct “active” ingredient, just DELETE from the formula because it does jack-zero for hair.
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If that product contains silicone gum blends, those will pill when used with little or no water.
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Affirmative. When used in o/w emulsions fatty alcohols will retard the foaming often seen. Cetyl alcohol works best for this.
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Answer: not much. CAPB contributes negative conditioning to hair by itself, but it does help to form coacervates with conditioning quats that do condition hair. Polyquaternium-7 comes to mind.
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@Pharma virtually all of the acrylic associative thickeners, Seppimax ZEN and Polyacrylate-6, -11, etc. included, are crosspolymers. They all have crosslinked 3D structures once alkali-swelled in water. Also share nearly zero tolerance for electrolytes as you’ve surmised, and that includes ZEN and don’t get me started on Seppic claims to the contrary. (grrrr..) Your options are then limited as you’ve also surmised, since virtually all HASE thickeners are acrylics, even Polyquaternium -37, and -32. The system you describe is a Pickering emulsion if not mistaken, so why not work with cellulose and its gum blends? Add a little surfactant and you may get where you need to go with electrolytes included.
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Price and availability. The 90% stock is mainly for excipient in pharma,intermediate in specialty synthesis and is far more refined and expensive. Plus the C16/C18 works just fine. The exception is when used in stearyl alcohol/cyclomethicone antiperspirant stick systems. It is referred to as “Deodorant Grade” then when ordering.
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@MarkBroussard I think your addition to the trade lexicon should go viral. “Beegan” got some legs to it, pal. Let’s all start using it.
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That sheds more light on the problem. @ketchito strikes again here: increase the CAPB (30% right) dramatically to where the CAPB solids level is 50% of the anionic level (reduce SLES to keep cost down maybe?) Then, DEL the salt. Add some amine oxide to boost viscosity and foam. Amine oxides are all 30% active and not expensive either. Then, and only then, if you still want some softness to leave behind on skin, add 2.0 - 5.0% PQ-7. It’s inexpensive and as @Abdullah states very compatible in cleansers as long as you have enough amphoteric in there. Look up “coacervation” in the trade chemistry lit and you’ll learn more.
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Thanks for sharing the link here @PhilGeis. Looks like I should have gone into the HRIPT business before now, though I don’t know if I agree with @MarkBroussard. The word “exemption” seems pretty clear, unlike some of this bill’s wording.
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@Graillotion, there you go answering your own questions again, and correctly I might add. Seems to be a thing with you, pal. IPM and IPP are the least expensive esters, and IPM the most versatile including de-oiling and de-greasing haptics. Other esters work better at this and lend nicer sensorials than these two but cost 2 - 4 times more. i.e. my faves C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diisostearyl adipate and isononyl isononanoate are superb degreasers and beneficial in other aspects, but all of these are more than twice the price of IPM.
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90% C18 stearate is rarely used, that’s used as an intermediate in synthesis or in pharma. You are fine using the 40/60 stuff. I’ll also add that the classic builder for LGN emulsions is cetearyl alcohol with glyceryl stearate at ratio about 3:1for best results. I personally find using just plain cetyl alcohol with GMS works fine 95% of the time.
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You may be alluding to fragrance fixation synonymous with “extension” here? In that case, triethyl citrate is an excellent fixative as is ethylhexylglycerin. Both are inexpensive and may be readily solubilized in surfactant systems also.
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@sweetflakes, to add to @RobboAU advisement, which is a great idea regarding that Cowles blade, you need to really beat on the silica for a long time in nothing but the first 5 items here. Do not add the pigments and other materials until that has mixed a good two hours at top speed. You should observe the batch start to thicken a little. Mix until it thickens no more at least to your eyes, then add your pigment blend and beat on it another 60 minutes. Finally add the rest. Silicas work great as anhydrous rheology aids but the issue is you cannot always tell when they are fully dispersed. Only time & kinetic energy can assure the outcome in yield value. This depends on the oil blend too. (Never tried this with Versagels before.) Also, phenoxyethanol isn’t needed. No water - no worries.