Forum Replies Created

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  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 5, 2023 at 7:44 pm in reply to: Conditioning shampoo formula

    Yo @enam you are combining an alkyl quat (Varisoft 100) into an anionic shampoo, a no-go. I’ll also add this is waayyyy over-formulated. Whassup with the PEG-7, glycerin (again: why, friends, why?), betaine, dermosoft eco (OK for skin, but for hair: Nah!) and dl-Panthenol at 2.0%? I’d dial this back. Increase the CAPB, decrease the AOS and DEL the glycerine, PEG, Varisoft, dermosoft and you won’t be needing that Crothix anymore, saving some coin there.  

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 5, 2023 at 7:35 pm in reply to: Emulsifier quantities

    Affirmative. This combo of  Sorbitan Stearate/Polysorbate 60 was taken directly from the original HLB Handbook authored by Bill Griffith for Atlas Chemical Company in 1957. Still works today! I know this annoys one of our esteemed colleagues here, who has been adamant about dissing the HLB system all along (and you know who you are.) The sulfite is in there as an antioxidant for ketoconazole stability. The TWEEN 80 seems totally unnecessary to me.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 5, 2023 at 7:28 pm in reply to: Under FDA’s new Cosmetic Reg. authority

    I read through the entire magilla last week and reckoned same. Made me think I may earn more compliance consulting gigs in my post-retirement years. BTW, the following mammoth section of the same bill deals with holding human clinical trial managers responsible for inclusivity/diversity protocols being met in their trials. Why? No science involved there, just politics.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 4, 2023 at 9:38 pm in reply to: Happy New Year!

    Same to you @Perry. I seem to remember you and I discussing many years ago in Chicago (our hometown for all those in ChemCornerWorld) the concept of an IDEA BANK. How to create and structure this database and allow access I cannot fathom. The idea would be a home for all of us veterans to dump our learned knowledge - our many “hacks” if you will - into a digital reservoir for future generations to access. I’ve even mentioned this to some of the acknowledged award-winning sages in the cosmetic chemistry business here in the USA and they liked this too.  Most mentioned going through the SCC however, a bureaucratic exersize I’d rather avoid. Just food for thought!  

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 4, 2023 at 9:27 pm in reply to: Galactoarabinan as rheology additive

    @Pharma, thanks for your insights. This helps me understand why the material never found mass appeal. Perhaps galactoarabinan works best when used in synergy with another polymer like so many do? I’ll check it out. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 3, 2023 at 4:44 pm in reply to: Galactoarabinan as rheology additive

    @MarkBroussard, thanks for the feedback. I’ll keep that constraint in mind. It is electrolyte tolerant then if compatible with AHA. Good to know.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 3, 2023 at 3:02 pm in reply to: Crystals and this weird white thing in a solution product.

    @Abdullah this might be allantoin too. It has a water solubility threshold of 0.50%, lower than even salicylic acid. They both solvate better in presence of urea, or as @majbo points out, a lot of glycols, not glycerin, or ethanol if you can handle it. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 3, 2023 at 2:56 pm in reply to: New cosmetic trends for 2023 and beyond

    @ketchito, nice thread! And merry, happy Christmas New Year back at you. How about taking that papaya with papain and starting an “Enzyme Revolution” in skin care? As for “free of”, I like “free of insects”.  I’ve always wanted to add to a brand label copy “Do not use this product for evil.”  

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 3, 2023 at 2:47 pm in reply to: Incorporating liquid germall plus into anhydrous product

    @JonahRay, howzabout PCMX, aka chlorxylenol? Lipid-soluble and controls molds, fungi, most bacteria. Works for me.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 3, 2023 at 2:45 pm in reply to: Emulsifiers for thin/sprayable emulsion

    @Pharma, have you tried the modified cellulose rheologicals? Most are a bear to hydrate, I’ve had to beat on them with a Cowles at 600rpm @ 65C for four hours to get there. However, the ones mixed with cellulose gum hydrate easier and work well. Electrolyte tolerant too! And then there’s that renewable/sustainable thingy.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 2:37 pm in reply to: PE9010 Still destabilizing emulsions, creating a chunky cream

    Add the Euxyl PE9010 into the formula while cooling, after phases are combined and blended well. However, even then you may encounter the infamous “phenoxyethanol crash” that haunts us all.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 2:35 pm in reply to: cetearyl alcohol and foam

    @GeorgeBenson, I misunderstood, assumed you meant retarding creaming in an o/w emulsion system as @Graillotion mentions. Fatty alcohols do little to improve foam in surfactant cleansing products. They only work to opacify these formulas, a job they do well. SO MANY other materials enhance foam (not, repeat NOT, glycerin or any other polyol). This thread could take many hours to read were I to list them all.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 2:29 pm in reply to: Blush stick formulation

    Three words here: use more esters. You’ll feel better.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 2:22 pm in reply to: Emulsifiers for thin/sprayable emulsion

    Pemulens and Sepigels will NOT spray, only stream out of the closure.  Most polymers behave the same. You won’t get much “sprayable” there. I use polyglyceryl esters of fatty acid (PEFA) emulsifiers for sprayable milks, e.g. polyglcyeryl-6 laurate, polycglyceryl-4 stearate or polyglyceryl-10 caprate, etc.  Choose your poison but stay away from the multi-esters (any di, tri, penta, etc.) and buddy it up with glyceryl stearate or oleate or another monoester. 

  • This went into another direction, but I’ll answer your original query. Amodimethicone has a higher charge/mass ratio than the silicone quat, and it is capable of coacervating with that surfactant combo especially if you are using polyquternium-10 also. It is also much less expensive. My vote goes for that material.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 2:07 pm in reply to: Dilution Calculations for Hydrogen Peroxide 20 Vol

    20 Volume peroxide is 6.0% w/w since the SpG is close enough to 1.000, and standard concentration of commercial H2O2 FCC grade is 35.0% w/w. Just do the math.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 2:03 pm in reply to: Marketing

    @Ghita37, it appears you have a skincare product or brand you are attempting to launch and grow? If that is the case, try Tik Tok. Works for millions.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 1:59 pm in reply to: Strange phenomenon, any explanation?!

    @Fekher there is a much simpler explanation here. You are attempting to add a water-based keratin into a silicone-based anhydrous serum? No can do, my friend. Water and silicone mixture is a non-starter, you will always get haze. When you see proteins added to these frizz control serums it is added at the 0.0001% level just for label copy. As many have stated here before: there ought to be a law.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 1:55 pm in reply to: Popular but under-preserved product?

    I agree with everyone here on the futility, although these folks probably (falsely) believe all that crap about geraniol, lemon oil and rosemary oil working as a “preservative system” we all know to be bunk. So I dunno’ ’bout the preservation - but every time I see glycerin added to a cleansing product I GET VERY ANGRY!!! One more time: friends, don’t let friends add glycerin to products meant to foam and cleanse. It will not humectify, nor clean, nor coacervate with any surfactant; it will only depress your foam, crash your viscosity then flush right down the sewer into the abyss. This is a substance abuse problem among cosmetic chemists and there needs to be an intervention.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 1:39 pm in reply to: Silicon Oils Emulsification

    The short answer here is: affirmative. All will emulsify dimethicone with limits on loading.  Better if you can add a PEGylated dimethicone as co-emulsifier. Better yet use the BETAC instead of CETAC for best result. I’ve found the behenyl quat combined with SPDMA/Lactic acid works best for emulsifying silicone oils. An aside: unless it is already part of a silicone gum blend ingredient in the formula, I’ve never understood why anyone would add D4/D5 cyclomethicone alone into a cream or lotion for topical use, or a hair conditioner. It does not do anything but evaporate; why it’s called “volatile silicone.” 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 27, 2022 at 2:40 pm in reply to: detergent tablets

    Certain manual bath bomb presses can be bought with the disc former mold. Check them out. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 27, 2022 at 2:38 pm in reply to: Any recs for a bottle/beaker brush?

    That is the classic model used by many a chemist. I say go for it.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 27, 2022 at 2:35 pm in reply to: Oil rise to the surface in matte liquid lipstick

    I don’t see any rheology stabilizer in there @akrep. That is likely your problem, especially with all those powders. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 27, 2022 at 2:31 pm in reply to: Vitamin E

    If the antioxidant property is indicated for unsaturated lipids in your formula, then 70% tocopherols should be pro-rated according to your lipid content roughly 0.10% for every 7.0% lipids, or use the rosemary oleoresin as @CedarWind108 suggests as long as you don’t mind that pinkish hue to the product. If you are adding this just as a direct “active” ingredient, just DELETE from the formula because it does jack-zero for hair.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 27, 2022 at 2:26 pm in reply to: Pilling - dead skin and / or film formers piling up?

    If that product contains silicone gum blends, those will pill when used with little or no water. 

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