Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup Blush stick formulation

  • Blush stick formulation

    Posted by Crisaphi on October 27, 2022 at 3:58 pm

    Hello! I’m working on a blush stick that glides on smooth, is hydrating, long wearing but not greasy feeling. 

    My first iteration was too balmy. Second was better but too chalky…and streaky on application. I’d love any insight into what I might shift. 

    V1 

    octyldodecanol 15%
    Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 15%
    Cetearyl Alcohol 20%
    Beeswax 10%
    Castor Oil 10
    Candelila Wax 5%
    Stearic acid 3
    soy lecithin 2.5
    shea butter 5
    color 14
    vit e .5
    V2
    octyldodecanol 15%
    Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 15%
    Cetearyl Alcohol 20%
    Beeswax 10%
    Castor Oil 9.5%
    Candelila Wax 5%
    Stearic acid 3%
    Magnesium Stearate 3%
    Thickening clay 2%
    Shea butter 3%
    Lauryl laurate 2%
    Silica microspheres 2%
    Vit e .5%
    Color 10%
    chemicalmatt replied 1 year, 6 months ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Crisaphi

    Member
    October 27, 2022 at 4:03 pm

  • Devesh327

    Member
    December 29, 2022 at 9:39 am

    I have never made a blush stick, However, I have been making bullet lipsticks for the past 7 years. If I was to go about making your Product, I’d make it like this - 

    1.Castor Oil - 25.5
    2. CCTG - 10
    3. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene - 10
    4. 
    octyldodecanol  - 8
    5. Cetyl Alcohol - 7
    6. Bees Wax - 9
    7. 
    Candelila Wax -10
    8. 
    Stearic acid - 0
    9. Lanolin - 1(instead of soy lecithin) 
    10. Shea Butter - 4
    11. Pigment - 15 
    12. TBHQ + Mpara / Ppara - 0.5
    13. Vit e - QS 
    14. Fragrance - Shea butter (Mix with Peg-40 Hydrogenated castor oil 1:2)

    Also make sure the pigment/ colour you are adding is pre-dispersed. It really helps. TBHQ because it stops oxidation of oils. You can skip parabens if you don’t like them in your formulation. However, they are broad spectrum preservatives and work really well. 

    I like to use lanolin as it helps improve the glide, but add too much and it gives your batch a dull cream colour. I personally do not like using stearic acid. However, You can use it according to your formulation. 

    Be sure to make the batch first, let it solidify overnight. The next day warm it up a bit and add your pigment, then use a triple roll mill to mix pigment and batch together. If you do not have a triple roll mill, Warm up the batch & use a hand blender to thoroughly mix the pre - dispersed pigment. 

    Hope this helps! 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 2:29 pm

    Three words here: use more esters. You’ll feel better.

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