Oil rise to the surface in matte liquid lipstick

Formulating

Oil rise to the surface in matte liquid lipstick

Posted by akrep on December 23, 2022 at 6:50 pm

I use the following materials in the formula, but sometimes, not always, the liquids in the formula become heterogeneous after the filling is complete. Why could it be?

Pigment
magnesium myristate
titanium dioxide
boron nitride
Isoamyl Laurate
Isoamyl Cocoate
caprylic/capric triglyceride

Isododecane
beeswax

chemicalmatt replied 1 year, 3 months ago 5 Members · 10 Replies
10 Replies

chemicalmatt

Member
December 27, 2022 at 2:35 pm

I don’t see any rheology stabilizer in there @akrep. That is likely your problem, especially with all those powders.
akrep

Member
December 27, 2022 at 8:45 pm

chemicalmatt said:

I don’t see any rheology stabilizer in there @akrep. That is likely your problem, especially with all those powders.

Thank you for your answer. I didn’t know I had to use it.Which one do you recommend?
michaelpolymer

Member
January 4, 2023 at 5:55 am

only beeswax probably is not enough to bind those oil. try to add some sunflower wax.
akrep

Member
January 4, 2023 at 8:08 am

Thank you @michaelpolymer!
Devesh327

Member
January 4, 2023 at 11:46 am

Instead of using oils in the formulation, why not try a polyacrylate based formula. The product dries out faster. Can try using Dermacryl 79.
akrep

Member
January 11, 2023 at 9:29 am

Thank you @Devesh327 but aren’t oils mandatory?
Devesh327

Member
January 12, 2023 at 6:55 am

akrep said:

Thank you @Devesh327 but aren’t oils mandatory?

Mandatory ? I think what you mean is that oils help in the formulation. That they certainly do, However, which oils to go with is a wise choice. I have worked with the wax/oil formulation in liquid lipsticks, my experience was simply that they take a long time to dry, once they do, they are heavy on the lips. With Dermacryl 79 (Polyacrylate formula) the product is super light, has no weight on lips and is non transferable. I’ll share a formula with you, please try and let me know the results.

Isododecane - 59.30
Zeemasil T - 4 (Mix with part IDD & add next day)

Viamerine 10000 - 4 (Active Lip plumping)
Viamerine WH 36 - 1 (Secondary Lip plumping)
Silicone Resin GLX 2000 - 3
Aerosil R972 - 3 (Suspending agent)
Dry Flo TS - 10 (Matting agent)
Vitamin E Acetate - 1
Dermacryl 79 - 5 (Film Forming agent)
Titanium Dioxide - 2 (Pigment)
Iron Oxide red 911 - 1
Iron Oxide yellow 923 - 0.70 (Pigment)
Litho Rubine B Ca lake 112 SF - 4.50 (Pigment)
Perfume - 1
Iscaguard PFA - 0.50 (preservative)

Please try this formula. It is free from all your waxes & oils. This delivers a high performance product.
HAL49

Member
January 13, 2023 at 4:46 am

@Devesh327 thanks for sharing , your formula looks very interesting !!!

Would you be so kind to share the INCI of Zeemasil T - 4 and Silicone Resin GLX 2000 ?

I was unable to find them by those tradenames I guess I’m forgetting how to goggle 😣
akrep

Member
January 21, 2023 at 7:46 pm

@Devesh327 thank you so much! I’ll try as soon as I found raw materials
chemicalmatt

Member
January 23, 2023 at 10:03 pm

Ahh, there it is, @akrep the rheology stabilizer I was looking for in the first place in your initial post: Aerosil R972 silica.