Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Conditioning shampoo formula

  • Conditioning shampoo formula

    Posted by enam on January 5, 2023 at 12:56 pm

    Hi Friends,

    happy new year.
    I’m having challenges with a pearly conditioning shampoo im trying to formulate. It keeps separating. Please help me identify the culprit.

    A
    Alpha olefin sulfonate 24%
    CAB 30 9%
    Glycol stearate and stearamide AMP. 2%
    decyl glucoside 7%
    dermosft eco (Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate) 3%

    A1
     PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides 5%

    B
    polyquaternium 10 0.2%
    glycerin 2%
    betaine 2%
    water
    phytic acid and aqua. 0.1%

    C
    varisoft eq 100.  1%
    peg 7 3%
    fragrance 1%
    manuka honey extract 1%
    Marshmallow root extract 1%
    panthenol 2%
    citric acid 1%

    i tried eliminating polyquaternium 10 but problem still persists

    PhilGeis replied 1 year, 5 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 5, 2023 at 7:44 pm

    Yo @enam you are combining an alkyl quat (Varisoft 100) into an anionic shampoo, a no-go. I’ll also add this is waayyyy over-formulated. Whassup with the PEG-7, glycerin (again: why, friends, why?), betaine, dermosoft eco (OK for skin, but for hair: Nah!) and dl-Panthenol at 2.0%? I’d dial this back. Increase the CAPB, decrease the AOS and DEL the glycerine, PEG, Varisoft, dermosoft and you won’t be needing that Crothix anymore, saving some coin there.  

  • enam

    Member
    January 7, 2023 at 2:20 pm

    Yo @enam you are combining an alkyl quat (Varisoft 100) into an anionic shampoo, a no-go. I’ll also add this is waayyyy over-formulated. Whassup with the PEG-7, glycerin (again: why, friends, why?), betaine, dermosoft eco (OK for skin, but for hair: Nah!) and dl-Panthenol at 2.0%? I’d dial this back. Increase the CAPB, decrease the AOS and DEL the glycerine, PEG, Varisoft, dermosoft and you won’t be needing that Crothix anymore, saving some coin there.  

    Thank you. The PEG-7  is to solubilize the varisoft eq 100 which worked perfectly in my other shampoo formula, Dermosoft eco is a preservative for the system, will deleting varisoft still give a conditioning shampoo? This is designed for Afro textured hair. Glycerin will go since betaine is there as a humectant.
    once again I appreciate your input

  • ketchito

    Member
    January 8, 2023 at 3:04 am

    @enam Historically, conditioning shampoos use basically a mix of catonic polymers and silicones. Cationic surfactants are not common in shampoos because of negative interactions with the anionic surfactants (there are situations in which they can work, but it depends on the molecule and the ratio anionic/cationic). 

    Glycerin is a small and very water-soluble molecule, and will not do anything in a rinse-off product than remain solvated by the solvent (water) and go down the drain.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 8, 2023 at 10:21 am

    Why Dermasoft ECO?  It’s a very questionable preservative system - esp. in a shampoo.    

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