chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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First I’ve heard of the lawsuit but the term “collagen” has been used loosely for a long time in the beauty industry and I can see where the plaintiff is coming from. Nearly all of the collagen used in topical skin care products is actually collagen amino acids, not native collagen itself. The native collagen is VERY expensive and is the stuff cosmetic surgeons inject into lips to plump them up to hideous levels. There is now a group in Taiwan that sells bio-engineered collagen that is not hydrolyzed or deconstructed. I have never used it but I know it also is not cheap. Collagen amino acids are much less costly and readily available. I speculate this defendant will need to provide evidence they used native not hydrolyzed.
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PVP K-90 is the larger polymer chain length version of PVP K-30, the only difference between the two. In hair styling K-90 will give a harder hold per gram weight but is less soluble in water and less flexible when plasticized. Think crunchier. The K-30 is easier to work with, plasticizes better, flakes less and hair hold properties may be improved by simply adding more to the formula (it is less expensive than K-90.) I cannot speak to how each PVP interacts with color cosmetics, as that medium is not my jam. As film formers go, both are hygroscopic to similar degree.
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Will not make any difference in the sensorial outcome or formula consistency, but may affect final coloration depending on how much used of each.
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Have you guys ever heard of Alconox, the powdered alkaline cleaner everyone uses to clean our stainless steel vessel and mixer equipment? Alconox Powdered Precision Cleaner | Alconox Inc.
Jus’ sayin’.
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@Paprik that one is a laugh too. BTMS-25? Must be 25 times stronger than just plain BTMS, right?
Here in the USA, upcoming MoCRA regs should - I’m not saying will - put an end to this chicanery as soon as all these indie brands are required to register their labels with FDA like our OTC drug products have for six decades.
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I will add here that polyglycerin-10 is mainly a precursor to synthesize the very useful polyglyceryl-10 ester emulsifiers. Marketing it as a lone ingredient may have been an afterthought on part of a manufacturer with dubious qualities assigned. I’ve yet to see it on any CPG label.
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DO you mean the tocopherol diphosphate ester used in pharma? Of course it is expensive! Just because its pharma, right? Wouldn’t a combination of ethylhexylglycerin and zinc ricinoleate plus a little PCMX handle it just as well for a lot less coin? Just sayin’
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Never had much success salt thickening with SCMI and especially when the glucosides are in there too. Best to adjust the solids ratio as close as 1:1:1 as possible, with the glucoside being shorter if anything. Easiest means is to use acrylates copolymer synergist like Synthalen W600. Then you can have more freedom with the surfactants.
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That hectorite quat from Elementis is indicated wherever solid-state powders are to be suspended during hot-fill operations and beyond if final viscosity is low. It contributes the bulk yield value (BYV) needed for suspension of these ingredients. This is why you see it used in antiperspirants, mineral sunscreens, color make-up cosmetics…anything oil-based or silicone based in need of suspending pigments or other solids. These quat clays can also stabilize w/o and w/Si invert emulsions to a great extent.
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Your formula appears to be OK, though a chelant/anti-redeposition agent such as tetrasodium EDTA would make it 100% better for customers. I’d look into the dispensing closure itself. If using a turret-seal cap having aperture diameter of < 3mm, this might plug up with any formulation.
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Ditto for me @Abdullah, if the solids ratio is closer to 1:1 SLS:CAPB you likely won’t even need the salt. A little alkanolamide builder wouldn’t hurt either.
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@sunnyday Are you seeking a distributor for dimethicones in the UK, or advice on dimethicone formulation here? There are many distributors of all chemical ingredients in the UK. Start with Brenntag and work your way downward. As for 1000cst in massage oil formulation, this is a good choice given the longer playtime than the 350. You may reduce that viscosity to get more cushioning effect by adding light esters blended with D5 cyclomethicone, in turn miscible with 1000, or by themselves if selecting the right ones.
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I have to add here: when I was a teenager I was ridiculed for washing my hair with a bar of soap. My sister schooled me on this: “never heard of shampoo before, idiot brother mine?” Now we have come full circle to being “influenced” to use a solid state shampoo, which is chemically equivalent to that bar of soap whether syndet or saponified. Next up: bell-bottom pants and Nehru jackets for the lads. ????
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It is the required HLB, correct. For stearyl palmitate the required HLB = 10. The required HLB values calculated for fatty esters and other builders is somewhat nebulous and to be taken as approximate.
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$300 per kg!! That is scam-worthy. Lecithin graded high in phophatidylcholine runs less than $10.00 per kg. and that is the “liposomer” material of choice. Liposome formation is all in the technique, not the materials. Same holds true for niosomes, which use polyglyceryl esters in place of phospho-esters and sometimes a smidge of cholesterol. Don’t ask me why or how cholesterol fits into the picture. Beats me, but perhaps used as a processing aid.
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<div>@Herbnerd the gold standard for paste mixing has always been the Day-Nauta mixer equipped with a vacuum pump much like your machine. Hosokawa supplies them now, though used Day-Nauta mixers can be found on the aftermarket.</div>
The original Nauta® mixer | Hosokawa Micron (hosokawa-micron-bv.com)
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Not sure which supplier was informing you @kivangel but they were WRONG. Dimethyl isosorbide works with lipids (oils) especially, not so much with water-soluble molecules. There are many penetration enhancers for those, but not many oil penetrants safe to use in topical formulae. DMI stands out, perhaps this explains why it has been historically more expensive than the molecule structure suggests.
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Sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, sodium xylene sulfonate, sodium dioctyl sulfosucccinate (aka “DOSS”) and virtually any metal alkyl phosphate surfactant. The higher the pH the greater their solubility and lower their Krafft Number.
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Formulation details aside…help me understand: what exactly is the intended purpose or outcome of applying magnesium chloride topically to humans?
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I would cut all that oil and butter down by at least half and add Polyquaternium-7 at 2 - 5%. Problem solved. Wet comb, dry comb, all comb.
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@sandra-burnett there are too many issues here to address in one post, perhaps try Plan B and start over taking this one at a time. Just for starters: Way too high solids in there. Which guar? Where’s the builder? What’s with all the oils? Why use glycerin?
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Mark, Is this where the Great Smiley Octopus dwells capturing the carbon emitted from Gwyneth Paltrow’s GOOP cruises? Must be.
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@Benyamin Both of these will “burn” hair when your cream base containing them is left on longer than 25 minutes, though the popular term is “shedding.” Scalp will burn even sooner. The alkali cream hair relaxers have been working their lanthionizing chemistry for nearly 60 years, first in the salon then in the retail storefront, where the safer 2-part guanidine system held place. The black hair care community has trended away from them now, for reasons of safety and cultural awareness. Safety first and wisely so, I guess. I’ve had to give depositions for product liability lawsuits three times over course of my career, and two of these were for alkaline no-base hair relaxer products.
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Likely carbon steel, which is even more susceptible to corrosion from oxidizers. For a brief 30 minutes sanitizing cycle though, no problem.
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Always grateful to @Graillotion for keeping me updated on these things - thanks again, pal: my lifespan has been duly lengthened. Now, @Isabel thank you for giving me the skinny ’cause I’ve seen these “magnesium oil” products in the market and trade press. Knowing the topical analgesia angle, isn’t magnesium sulfate (Epsom Salt) actively doing the exact same thing, albeit without the trendiness? Asking for a friend.