Dimethyl Isosorbide as Penetration Enhancer for THDA?
Can DMI enhance penetration of oil soluble actives, in particular Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, in an anhydrous formula? I keep seeing anhydrous formulas with DMI and THDA (as the only active), so I assume they are using DMI as a penetration enhancer? But raw material suppliers state that DMI enhances penetration of water soluble actives with low molecular weight, such as Dihydroxyacetone.
In my anhydrous formula, I am using DMI as a solvent for another active. But due to DMI’s strong smell, it is worth keeping it if it possibly enhances performance of THDA or other oil soluble actives. Otherwise, I will go with a less smelly solvent.