Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Disteardimonium Hectorite in makeup formulations

  • Disteardimonium Hectorite in makeup formulations

    Posted by VinTec on May 23, 2023 at 11:29 am

    Hi there!

    Recently I’ve been assigned to work on a makeup project. I’ve actually never really formulated makeup or any other colour cosmetic, so now I’m studying these types of formulations, raw materials used, function of the products, etc.

    I’ve noticed that A LOT (almost every product that I’ve seen actually) has Disteardimonium Hectorite in the LOI. I did a research and saw that this is a thickener with suspending properties. I saw that Elementis have a product line called ‘Bentone’, which basically is different versions of Disteardimonium Hectorite dispersed in silicones/emollients.

    What is the thing about Disteardimonium Hectorite that make it so prevalent in cosmetic formulations? I saw it in foundations, concelealers, lipsticks, blushes, emulsions, anhydrous products… Is it reallt THAT effective? Also, is there any ingredient that can be use to replace it? I’m afraid that I may not be able to get it.

    Kind regards! 🙂

    chemicalmatt replied 1 year ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • chemicalmatt

    May 23, 2023 at 1:36 pm

    That hectorite quat from Elementis is indicated wherever solid-state powders are to be suspended during hot-fill operations and beyond if final viscosity is low. It contributes the bulk yield value (BYV) needed for suspension of these ingredients. This is why you see it used in antiperspirants, mineral sunscreens, color make-up cosmetics…anything oil-based or silicone based in need of suspending pigments or other solids. These quat clays can also stabilize w/o and w/Si invert emulsions to a great extent.

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