[Pattsi]

Belassi said:

Advice? Sure. Don’t waste your time.

Agreed.

or if it’s intended for personal use, a suspension in hydrogel is easier to manage, shelf-life should be around 6 mo in fridge.

[Pattsi]

We had issue with 2%Ectoin in similar formula to yours but higher Saccharide Isomerate and Xylitol. oyster-like smell was very pronounced and browning worsen very quickly. Couldn’t safe it. Hope you find the way. Best of luck.

[Pattsi]

You didn’t % and %symbiomuls GC.
I don’t know if this any help.
https://personal-care.evonik.com/product/personal-care/en/products-solutions/formulations/pages/formulations.aspx?formulationId=4742

[Pattsi]

Sodium Benzoate 0.7 gr
Benzalkonium Chloride 0.1%
seem like preservatives amount. - I think it would take hrs to pass 3log.
is the result is acceptable for liquid hand soap? if you don’t claim Antibacterial i guess yes? 

[Pattsi]

Sal said:

Hi. I would like to mention that im having the same problem with cleanser not coming off due to becoming thick creamy texture when mixed with water. However, ive seen a well known organic formulator making it exactly the same way im making it using the same recipe. Also i know some great oil cleansers already in market with same formulations of 15%polyglycerl-4oleate and remaining oils. Now i need to know why im having issues even though the formulation isnt an issue???

Please note im talking about 100% oil based formulation with 15% polyglyceral 4 olate , grapseed oils, coconut oils and vit E

@Sal - Are you sure they performing well?

If you want to go natural(???). - Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate combo like Tatcha might be a better ref. 

[Pattsi]

That’s dope.
Happy formulating.  

[Pattsi]

Not commenting on its skin benefits too.

There’s SalSphere® Resveratrol - encapsulated version. disperse in cool-down phase.

[Pattsi]

Montanov 68 - SEPPIC INCI Name: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulgade 68/50 - BASF INCI Name:Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

MONTANOV™ 68 MB is an O/W emulsifier that can be used for natural/ “green” concepts. It can create a fluid to thick cream with a rich texture. 100% Natural Origin Content, COSMOS & Natrue approved, covered by a Mass Balance RSPO certificate, China listed.

Emulgade® PL 68/50 is a natural self-emulsifying cream base, that demonstrates good skin compatibility-even with sensitive skin. Based on APG®, it builds biomimetic lamellar creams that exhibit the same lamellar structure as natural skin lipids. This product is ideally used in sun care, face care, body care, baby care, anti-aging and sensitive skin care applications. It is 100% vegetable derived, is supplied in ivory colored pellets, and has a use level of 3-6%.

[Pattsi]

Oh my, Korean Market is so hard lol in my humble opinion.
if you go for cosmetics, I say you can have shinny glossy filmy dewy product youngster seem to like it that way. I assumed you speak Korean, many bloggers or influencers seem to have concluded the more dewy, the slower absorption, means the more skin hydration.
if you go for functional cosmetics, I say your cream should better have quick absorb feeling.
I think your wife is spot on Korean trend. Don’t forget to compare your price with others around 홍대, 이대.

[Pattsi]

I didn’t use polymetylilsesquioxane and sepimat in the same cream so I can’t compare them directly.

no, not the same feeling. 

polymetylilsesquioxane was used to add glide as the cream was thick and didn’t want %dimethicone too high. Skin feel wasn’t particularly special not  matte but def not gloss.  

sepimat have much more mattifying as @ngarayeva001 mentioned. The cream was thick and glide ok with 5.5%dimethicone. sepimat added to give it a matte and powdery feel. In the end that cream didn’t make the cut.

ngarayeva001 said:

If you can get sample get both and just test on your hand to see what each does. They both are great but I would argue that polymethylsilsesquioxane is more versatile. 

agree, polymethylsilsesquioxane is more versatile.

[Pattsi]

I have polymetylilsesquioxane in one finished cream (and more under developing) mainly for spreadability.
less powdery than sepimat sb.
less matte than sepimat sb, more of a soft-focus than matte. but not shine during the day.
skin feel defers by size too 2, 4.5 , 7 , 10

[Pattsi]

Agate said:

Thinly veiled link-building? A word of caution, the active in these eye drops was developed and is used as a medical treatment for glaucoma by lowering the pressure inside the eyeball. Definitely not a cosmetic.

Exactly. 5 stars.

Eyebrow product is trending @Agate especially in natural side.
There’s Korean eyebrow semi-permanent embroidery hyping too.

[Pattsi]

This is a great question and I’m curious because I’m having emulsification failures with Montanov 68 as well. Would just using Cetearyl Alcohol add the silkiness that Montanov 68 does? How is Cetearyl Alcohol different from Cetyl Alcohol in terms of skinfeel and application? I love Cetyl and use it all the time..

@emma1985 - I have no experience with Montanov 68 myself but as I search it require co-emulsifier and various rheology modifiers, too much headache for me so I will leave it to professional formulator or contracted formulator, when/if I ever want to use it. 

You can have Cetearyl Glucoside alone and try pair it with Cetyl if you like it, but I guess Cetearyl will be more stable.

[Pattsi]

I have tried sepimat sb in facial cream. It gave a matte and silky feel. Or more user friendly starches, but I like sepimat sb’s skin feel more.

Elizabeth Arden Visible Difference Gentle Hydrating Cream might be a ref for stability, there’s PELEMOL BB in it.

[Pattsi]

For emollience, why add 68, why not Cetearyl Alcohol alone?
or you intend to do multi-Glucosided lamellar.

Hope this might help
https://patents.justia.com/patent/9949900

[Pattsi]

They claim effectiveness against the Covid-19 virus (SARS-CoV-2) not virucidal efficacy yet.
The lastest statement they gave
https://www.dettol.com.sg/illness-prevention/novel-coronavirus-2019-ncov/actives-in-leading-hygiene-products-are-99-9-effective-against-sars-cov-2-virus/ 
was referring to the letter @ketchito shared
https://www.ajicjournal.org/action/showPdf?pii=S0196-6553(20)30313-8
How independent can this be, it’s done by RB team. 

To be honest I have no doubt Dettol can kill SARS-CoV-2, it have been used in hospitals for a long time. Sorry I am way off topic.

[Pattsi]

Review of preparations used for hand hygiene - WHO was reviewed in 2019.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK144041/
Chloroxylenol - 30 sec.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19692148/

https://www.ajicjournal.org/action/showPdf?pii=S0196-6553%2820%2930313-8
 - interesting

FDA doesn’t approved Chloroxylenol yet I believe.
Canada have some products with Chloroxylenol authorized.
Dettol doesn’t officially claim killing covid-19, just implying. 

[Pattsi]

Thank you @jemolian.
I’m confused with Glycerol and SC Phase Transition. There are many things still for me to learn. 

This article is good too.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6490993/
but there’s no mention about lipid phase transition.

[Pattsi]

Zink said:

Around 145C, but it’s soluble in other oils and organic solvents so it generally solubilizes without needing high heat.

Thank you @Zink . The last time i try i failed, have give it another go.

[Pattsi]

Isn’t Cholesterol need around 120 °C to melt? Can Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride withstand the heat? 

in skinceuticals they use Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
or you can try Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate but it is quite expensive.

[Pattsi]

jemolian said:

Thanks for the confirmation @helenhelen. I’ve ordered 100ml from China since it’s seems there’s only 1 repacker there. They do have triglycerol but based on the one of the paper i read recently, Glycerin has a better healing rate, followed by Diglycerin, though i can’t find much info on Triglycerol itself to determine how well it performs.  
 

Hi @jemolian Can you share the paper about healing rate?
I’m interested in what mechanism Glycerin have in healing other than that of Glycerin-based hydrogel wound dressing have.

There are PPG-24-Glycereth-24, Polyglycerin-10, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin i really want to try.

[Pattsi]

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/56141/sodium-lauryl-sulfate-MRP-NYSIPM.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y

if you want to replace Sodium Lauryl Sulfate with polysorbate-20
ratio around polysorbate-20:Peppermint Oil - 2%:0.15%
no experience with Eugenol. 

[Pattsi]

1 tip - don’t do it, leave it to professional. 

[Pattsi]

Perry said:

@Pattsi - “…some might find yourself sweating more than you expected… “

This is a very interesting question. I have experienced this (especially after going for a run then showering). I wonder if the cause has really been studied or if it is simply a logical deduction based on theories of how the sweat system works.  I do not know.  Must look into this further…

I haven’t come across such study, pls do share what you find.

Apoeccrine sweat glands

A third type of sweat gland, only recently described by Sato et al. in 1987 [23,24] is the apoeccrine gland. Apoeccrine glands develop from eccrine sweat glands between the ages of ~8 to 14 years and increase to as high as 45% of the total axillary glands by age 16–18 [23]. They are intermediate in size, but as the name suggests, apoeccrine glands share properties with both eccrine and apocrine glands. Like apoeccrine glands, apoeccrine glands are limited in distribution, as they are contained to only the axillary region. Apoeccrine glands are more similar to eccrine glands in that the distal duct connects to and empties sweat directly onto skin surface [23]. In addition, the apoeccrine gland produces copious salt water secretions similar to eccrine sweat [23]. The function of this secretion is unknown, but unlikely to play a significant role in thermoregulation since evaporation is inefficient in the axilla region. The innervation of the apocrine gland is still poorly understood, but in vitro models suggest the apocrine gland is more sensitive to cholinergic than adrenergic stimuli [23,24].

Many factors affect cholinergic innervation including temp that’s why armpit sweat is hard in management, so just botox it and done.

[Pattsi]

If you had tried True Glue the All Natural one vs their colored series.
you may noticed the difference hold they gave.