Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Formula separation

  • Formula separation

    Posted by Karen on October 28, 2020 at 8:02 pm

    A portion of my product keeps separating from the final product. It sometimes looks like it curdles on emulsification and when hand stirring stays together conglomerated. What can be causing this? 

    My formula consist of: 
    min the water phase:
    Pentylene glycol
    Ectoin 
    panthenol
    butylene glycol 
    sorbitol
    niacinamide
    sodium PCA 
    sodium phytate 

    oil phase: 
    safflower 
    argan 
    squalane 
    octyldodecanol 
    tribehenin 
    symbiomuls GC 
    gmcy 

    small amount of glycerin & Xanthan 

    final phase: 
    microalgae extract 
    copper peptide dissolved in water 
    Dermosoft 1388 eco

    final ph is approx 5.2-5.5 
    adjusted with citric acid solution 

    colour of separated part is very slightly off clear 

    If someone could please give any feedback as to what may be causing this?

    Thank you in advance. 

    Karen replied 3 years, 6 months ago 5 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Pattsi

    Member
    October 29, 2020 at 9:37 am
  • Graillotion

    Member
    October 30, 2020 at 4:06 am

    How are you emulsifying?  You mention stirring.  Please describe your process.

  • Karen

    Member
    October 30, 2020 at 7:28 am

    Percentage symbiomuls GC is 5% 
    I emulsify with a dynamic MX100 
    The longer and more high shear seems to make it separate more and when I tried by just stirring at the end after emulsification it brings it back together - if that makes sense. 

  • Benz3ne

    Member
    October 30, 2020 at 8:09 am

    Karen said:

    Percentage symbiomuls GC is 5% 
    I emulsify with a dynamic MX100 
    The longer and more high shear seems to make it separate more and when I tried by just stirring at the end after emulsification it brings it back together - if that makes sense. 

    Put the other %s you’ve used and that’ll help determine whether you’ve enough emulsifying agent.
    I would assume that you need a high shear initially until a grain-free emulsion is formed and continual stirring thereafter until cool.
    The separation might be because you have something that has not incorporated into the emulsion, or that your emulsion isn’t stable as a result of not enough (or wrong type) or emulsifying agent.

  • helenhelen

    Member
    October 30, 2020 at 10:37 am

    GMCY can have a negative effect on viscosity and stability.

  • Karen

    Member
    October 30, 2020 at 1:50 pm

    I use this emulsifier for all my emulsions and have never had any issues at all as well as the low 0.3% gmcy. The addition of the Xanthan helps to counter that. 

    I emulsify until Cream is formed and then after adding my Xanthan glycerin solution.
    I have another very similar formula that isn’t separating. So can’t understand what is happening with this one. I am well within the oil ratio for emulsifier in the formula as it can take up to 40% oils and mine is at 21%

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