Critique my niacinamide moisturizer? BTMS, Floraesters, Cholesterol..
Ingredient Name % Phase Distilled Water 72.2 Water Glycerin (Vegetable) 4.5 Water Niacinamide 3.0 Water Floraesters K-20W 1.5 Water Allantoin 0.3 Water Xanthan Gum 0.3 Water Glycolic Acid q.s Water Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.0 Oil BTMS-25 4.0 Oil Safflower Seed Oil (High Linoleic) 3.0 Oil DuraQuench IQ SA (Cetyl alcohol, Isostearyl Isostearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl stearate, Stearic Acid) 2.5 Oil Spectrastat G2 N (Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glycerin) -OR-
Spectrastat OEL (Caprylhydroxamic acid, Caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Propanediol)
1.2 Oil Dimethicone CPS1000 1.0 Oil Cholesterol 1.0 Oil Vitamin E, Mixed Tocopherols 50% 0.5 Oil
Looking to make a relatively cheap to manufacture, sleek whole body moisturizer for year-round general use that gives long lasting moisturization and TEWL reduction with relatively low viscosity that’s beneficial for acneic skin. Considered Lotionpro 165 instead of BTMS, but prefer the latter’s sleek skin feel.
Initially I toyed around with using individual ceramides and linoleic acid in its FFA form, but some studies show these ingredients causing problems and the evidence for them isn’t overwhelming, so reverted to safer and cheaper ones like cholesterol and safflower seed oil as a source of linoleic acid (in its triglyceride form, which still seems to do some good over time). Isostearyl Isostearate also has some decent evidence of TEWL reduction, my thinking is that it won’t make the formula too thick or comedogenic at a relatively low use level.
Glycolic acid is there to adjust pH to 4.5. Dimethicone is on anti-soaping duty. Leaning towards using Spectrastat OEL due to its much lower cost than G2 N.
Log in to reply.