I am a total newbie, but I used Montanov 68 (also referred to as Vegetal) in my first batch of product after reading about it on Formula Botanica, which has a great blog post on it. I did the 30% oil (but with 10% cocoa butter) 8% Montanov 68 recipe. Obviously, this is a heavy cream formulation and not suitable for everyone, but I wanted to experiment with creating a rich eye cream. I did not use any gums, and the final product is definitely thick enough for my purposes (i.e., you can turn the container upside down, and there is no product shift unless you were to shake it).
In terms of feel, I apply it very sparingly (absolutely key for something this heavy), and …
- You can feel an occlusive layer on your skin for a couple of hours after, depending on the wind and temperature — I am not sure what the term for this is in personal care products/cosmetic chemistry, but perhaps someone else can advise?
- This is most likely due to my very high oil/butter content, but if I touch my face for 1-2 hours after application, I can still feel some greasiness and can slide my finger across my face a tiny bit — in other words, it does not feel like it’s fully “absorbed.” This is another aspect of product feel, and I’m not sure how to describe this specifically in cosmetic chemistry speak/lingo.
Overall, I liked the experience, but I have limited experience and cannot comment on how much better it would be with, say, 10%-15% oil, 4-5% Montanov, and maybe 0.2%-0.3% Xanthan Gum.
I’d be interested in hearing what you are looking to achieve. For my next adventure, I will be using either a combination of cetyl alcohol and sorbitan stearate, or Montanov 202. I am looking for something “natural” as well as non-comedogenic.