

Pattsi
Forum Replies Created
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Pattsi
MemberFebruary 16, 2021 at 4:02 am in reply to: What would add glide to this natural deodorant formula?40/60 : powder/oil base isn’t it too high.
If I’m not mistaken DIY bloggers suggested powder at the second ingredient.
And you didn’t state your formulation was meant to be a stick or a paste-like.
Maybe you can try looking at natural lipstick formulations how do they get the glide. -
Why does many start out with BTMS series? I personally think 165 does a better job.
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There’s a class here, I believe Perry cover most if not all the aspects of natural formulating.
https://chemistscorner.com/natural-cosmetic-formulating/
You might want to check it out.
I recon it’s better than internet random bloggers. -
Pattsi
MemberFebruary 14, 2021 at 2:36 pm in reply to: Question about solubilizer percentage for bath meltsI’ll leave bath melts to other.
abierose said:Oh one more question since it’s on topic, what percentage of a solubilizer is necessary for a cleansing oil?depends on what do you use as your solubilizer/emulsifier.
the idea is to have perfect %
if too much they tend to dry and strip your skin
if too little they won’t emulsify and rinse off.I believe @ngarayeva001 recommended 20% polysorbate 80.
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Intimate wash
If you don’t know what you are doing, then don’t.
Please start with simple body wash.
Or if you have expertise in the formulating field, I’m sorry. -
Pattsi
MemberFebruary 12, 2021 at 6:43 am in reply to: Do emulsifiers count in oil phase composition?Emulsifier isn’t counted as oil.
It’s counted in total oil phase if your emulsifier’s added in oil phase.
But if your emulsifier’s added in water phase then it’s counted in water phase. -
Pattsi
MemberFebruary 10, 2021 at 5:21 am in reply to: Can I use a one ingredient from a patented compound, to sell a skincare product?Pharma said:Patented for what? If it’s not cosmetic related, sure. But then again, it would be a new cosmetic ingredient… If it’s a cosmetic ingredient patented for action A and you want it to use for action B, you’d have to proof that it actually only has action B. Proofing means likely court and lawyers and the like if the patent holder gets a hold of you.Take Thiamidol as an example: It could also be used as antioxidant. However, there is no point in adding Thiamidol as such. Every judge will see (at least after getting brainwashed by a dozen Beiersdorf lawyers who know how to deal with such cases) that you only try to cut around the patent and are in fact after the anti-pigment effect. Proving that Thiamidol in your product does not reduce pigmentation but solely acts as antioxidant isn’t worth the trouble, certainly not as long as there are cheaper antioxidants available.re-read Pharma’s quote.
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Pattsi
MemberFebruary 10, 2021 at 4:56 am in reply to: What are the main reasons for emulsion instability?Are you sure you should heat Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Bakuchiol to 80°C, if my memory’s not wrong, it is not over 75°C and very briefly, you should check the spec sheets.
sorbitan stearate alone? - HLB around 4.7 would be water-in-oil
if you want clean(?) emulsifier, Hydrogenated Lecithin works better than Lecithin.
you might get 2 years stability with proper formulation.
maybe try Hydrogenated Lecithin + Magnesium Aluminum Silicate + GumsThere’s a brand (the brand with the mushroom), you can look it up for guide line, but i personally don’t like the texture.
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Pattsi
MemberFebruary 7, 2021 at 5:59 am in reply to: What are the main reasons for emulsion instability?Lecithin alone is not quite stable in long term, and you sure 0.8 is enough?
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Pattsi
MemberFebruary 7, 2021 at 4:14 am in reply to: What cosmetic science topic would make a good debate? -
Pattsi
MemberFebruary 6, 2021 at 3:43 am in reply to: Big company vs Small company - Who’s more evil?Perry said:Our system also makes it much more risky for big companies to cut corners than small companies. If a large multi-national puts a product out on the market that harms people, they will get sued to the tune of millions of dollars.Agree, big companies they know what they’re doing.
Perry said:If a small company does the same, they just go bankrupt, shutter the business and start a new one. This encourages more risky behavior.have seen these vicious cycle many times, some didn’t even want to sustain the businesses, just want quick cash with risky product and when they tickled under FDA’s nose they just shut their companies down, and of cause start a new one.
PhilGeis said:Understand marketer frsutration, but a lot of what is claimed as benefit is pretty subjective if not silly. Mark’s point is much more compelling - the risk better be very small. By ignorance or worse, smaller companies are often guilty of driving failed risk assessment.I can’t speak for all marketers out there, for me - standard product like moisturizer, shampoo etc. doesn’t have to have claims - if texture, fragrance , experience and the price is right with a little boost of advertisement, the sale happens.
But if it’s a sunscreen or certain moisturizer with claim, have to submit efficiency and other tests for approval ( take lots of budget and time ) and if exporting to some countries with false claim - that would be dead on arrival and risking company to be banned for good.
So pretty much I stay in line and hoping our company will get to Billion one day lol.if an entrepreneur happens to come across this post, hope this gives you some or little benefit or idea.
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Pattsi
MemberFebruary 5, 2021 at 8:42 am in reply to: Big company vs Small company - Who’s more evil?MarkBroussard said:Well … “Evil” is an unfortunate term in this regard.Cosmetic regulations are not terribly difficult to comply with to ensure product safety. In fact, I’ll make the premise that you almost have to actually intend, on purpose, to develop an unsafe cosmetic product. Granted, that is much easier to do if you are developing Chemical Peels as opposed to a Moisturizing Cream. Or, you simply don’t know what you are doing.
I think the Big Company/Small Company more comes down to a couple of key issues:
(1) Cosmetic Regulations In the US Are Lax … FDA does not require a product registration, product safety assessment, etc. before launching a product on the market.
(2) LAX regulations allow virtually anyone to put a cosmetic product on the market whether they know what they are doing or not and in many cases they don’t even understand the regulations. You see so many products that are mislabelled or don’t comply with labelling regulations.
So, I think the relatively low barriers to entry with lax regulations allow a lot of products onto the market that may not have been properly vetted, mostly by smaller companies. But, you have to factor in that many of these small companies may use a contract manufacturer who will better force compliance with regulations and testing before they will agree to manufacture the product.
It’s frustrating to me as a marketer.
In US the leading country in the business, FDA does not require a product registration, product safety assessment, etc. before launching a product on the market.
Many products were spun out of reality, this should be a federal crime.
Whereas - say Japan, the product and its claim is heavily regulated, even LOIs have to use their Japanese codes. -
Penetration Enhancement
Levulinic Acid
The performance of 3 transdermal buprenorphine patch formulations, combined with 8% (w/w) Levulinic Acid, lauryl
alcohol, or Tween 80, was tested upon 1.5 cm x 1.5 cm of abdominal skin from male Sprague-Dawley rats (number not
specified).25 Response surface methodology was used to evaluate the interactive effects of various skin permeation and
adhesion properties. The skin flux, and hence penetration potential of buprenorphine, was highest in the presence of
Levulinic Acid. The authors postulated that the chemical structure of Levulinic Acid has the potential to disrupt or fluidize
lipids in the stratum corneum, hence leading to an increased partitioning and absorption of buprenorphine.https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Levulinic.pdf
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Pattsi
MemberFebruary 2, 2021 at 7:50 am in reply to: What cosmetic science topic would make a good debate?Is it possible to do a repeat of “Clean beauty debate”?
But with the consumer prospective so it could be “Communicate with your consumers debate”.If you can get an opinion from the consumer side like from youtuber GURU(?) i.e. Hyram or Sedona Christina … etc. or Vogue or Harper’s bazaar personel, having them join the debate and if having the debate feature in their channels that would be great since they have quite a big follower so the massage from cosmetic scientist can reach more people.
or a non-cosmetic/skincare youtuber to represent a pure consumer side without bias.
It’s just a random idea.
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Immersive hand blender can do the emulsifying job but it introduce too much air.
vhogiono said:For the butter product, IPCS recommends to have 12-15% oil (but butter not more than 10% as it may affect the consistency during hot and cold weather).It’s just a guideline, you have to find which % work best for you.
How did you add dimethicone and fragrance?
Maybe you can try adding in cool down phase with gentle stirring.A high butter product is quite a process dependent.
There’re discussions and great advices about how to handle shea butter here in the forum.
This vid is not the best formula but it can give you some idea on how to DIY high butter product.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bc2QK2VPS44 -
Olaplex’s meant to use only little amount.
if use too much it decrease large molecule dye uptake, so the colour won’t come out right.aedina said:l have used Olaplex for a while. Shampoo, conditioner and the famous number 3. No difference. Although my hair was healthy, to begin with. I had no extensive damage so maybe l am not the right person to comment on it.I had the in-salon treatment, my hair looked fine ( like it should look like when you go to a hair salon), but my ends felt really dry, especially when l washed my hair a couple of days later.
My friends have bleached their hair. Their hair looked much healthier and shinier right away. An instant success. However, after some time they too had experienced the same dryness, thinning ends and damage like me.
exactly, that instant fuzzy healthy effect’s gone after 1-2 washes. the famous number 3 is not a bad product but it’s just as good as other silicone conditioners.
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Pattsi
MemberJanuary 30, 2021 at 3:00 am in reply to: Big company vs Small company - Who’s more evil?When compared to billion dollars corporations most of the companies are small. :*
Indeed mass products from big companies are safe but not all small companies use evil tactics and produce unsafe products - well of cause some does.
Another problem I saw in the past years is most entrepreneurs with only micro or nano budget jumped into beauty market dreaming of big profit but faced with the harsh reality and didn’t survive.
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Pattsi
MemberJanuary 28, 2021 at 4:55 am in reply to: USA, UK, and every part of the world Sunscreen question? -
Pattsi
MemberJanuary 27, 2021 at 9:45 am in reply to: Pigmented, film-forming, water-repellent ‘cream’?Isn’t it a high pigment foundation, you are looking for?
sorry I can not be much help. -
If I’m not mistaken, it’s The Body Shop body butter or a knock off or a similar product.
Then chance is it’s a high % butter product maybe 10-15, but I’m a bit confused since The Body Shop or l’occitane (25% butter) gives smooth, moderate glossy shine finish not super Glossy, Shiny appearance like the one you’ve shown. -
Pattsi
MemberJanuary 27, 2021 at 7:14 am in reply to: USA, UK, and every part of the world Sunscreen question?Thank you @ngarayeva001 Thank you @Pharma Thank you @Bill_Toge
very appreciated it.
I’m aware of high SPF sunscreens in pharmacies but they tend to target occasional use like pool or beach trip, all of my samples are from big or quite big brands. And the prices are ridiculously high.
It seems to be a dead end to do US based contracted manufacturing sunscreen for regular usage. :'(
@ngarayeva001 @B@Bill_Toge It’s good to know you have a sun in UK.
I always thought there’re only three season in UK - windy, rainy, winter.🙂
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Pattsi
MemberJanuary 26, 2021 at 7:25 am in reply to: Common Mistakes Made When Beginning To Formulate@ngarayeva001 I’m teamSynthetics, I’m not against natural tho if it’s a reasonable natural.
Putting an ecocert product out require quite a huge budget which I believe most startup entrepreneurs don’t have so they turned to online sources, that’s maybe one of the reasons why mommy lotion making blog became popular.
One blogger that I think I’m ok with is Humblebee&me, since she’d been developing over the past years, not chemophobic and use some synthetic ingredients in her formulas.