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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Do emulsifiers count in oil phase composition?

  • Do emulsifiers count in oil phase composition?

    Posted by chickenskin on February 10, 2021 at 6:41 pm

    When you’re adding up your oil phase to make sure you’re using the proper emulsifier level.  Do you add up your emulsifier level as well?

    Example:

    castor oil - 5%

    soy bean oil - 10%
    stearyl alcohol - 2.5%
    GMS - 2%
    oil phase = 15% or 19,5%

    Thank you

    AndrewSeel replied 1 year, 10 months ago 8 Members · 13 Replies
  • 13 Replies
  • Paprik

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 12:27 am

    I was actually thinking about this question myself. Not long time ago. (Before I started my diploma study with IPSC)

    However, from a logical side, it should not be counted. 
    This is how I would explain it. You would basically need an emulsifier to emulsify the emulsifier. If that makes sense? 
    Emulsifier has water loving and oil loving portion. The water loving sticks with water and the oil portion “catches” all the oil. 

    To answer your question - Oil phase would be 19.5%, because you would have it in your oil phase/phase B or whatever, but the amount of oil to emulsify would be 15%. 
    Hope it helped :) 

  • DesertInBloomCosmeticsLab

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 1:20 am

    Ask yourself a simple question:  Is the emulsifier an oil?  No, it’s the agent used to emulsify the oils.  I gather you’re asking this in the context of using the HLB system.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 7:30 am

    there is no emulsifier here.

  • mhart123

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 4:16 pm

    @ngarayeva001 GMS (glyceryl monostearate) is an emulsifier

  • ggpetrov

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 6:18 pm

    mhart123 said:

    @ngarayeva001 GMS (glyceryl monostearate) is an emulsifier

    No, it’s not!

  • mhart123

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 6:28 pm
  • Paprik

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 6:53 pm

    ggpetrov said:

    mhart123 said:

    @ngarayeva001 GMS (glyceryl monostearate) is an emulsifier

    No, it’s not!

    Hi,
    GMS has emulsifying properties. Its HLB is low, so it’s great for W/O emulsion.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 6:54 pm

    mhart123 said:

    Just a note, there is a difference between GMS and GMS SE. :) 

  • mhart123

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 7:11 pm

    @Paprik correct I guess I was just focused on the glyceryl stearate part, not self emulsifying.  but nonetheless I would still consider gms and gms se emulsifiers

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 10:56 pm

    GMS alone isn’t an emulsifier but a thickener. It becomes co-emulsifier when mixed with emulsifiers (PEG-100 stearate or Ceteareth-20)

  • DesertInBloomCosmeticsLab

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 11:16 pm

    GMS SE (Self Emulsifying) contains GMS + Potassium Stearate at about 5%.  The SE comes from the Potassium Stearate component.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    February 12, 2021 at 6:43 am

    Emulsifier isn’t counted as oil.
    It’s counted in  total oil phase if your emulsifier’s added in oil phase.
    But if your emulsifier’s added in water phase then it’s counted in water phase.

  • chickenskin

    Member
    February 16, 2021 at 3:18 am

    thanks team oil phase!  just needed some realignment. 

  • AndrewSeel

    Member
    March 27, 2021 at 11:43 am

    @MarkBroussard I made a W/O zinc oxide cream with Low HLB emulsifiers like sorbitan Stearate and oleate plus GMS but has a low consistency so I added 0.5% of High HLB emulsifier and result in good homogenous cream besides Cetyl Alcohol as stabilizers. is it right to include Polysorbate 60 in small percentage???