Forum Replies Created

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  • Paprik

    Member
    February 29, 2024 at 11:54 am in reply to: BEST GELLING AGENT FOR BHA SERUM?

    Have you tried better grade of Xanthan Gum? There are fantastic grades, not slimy, not sticky, transparent/translucent …

    I would try Sepimax Zen.

    Also if companies are using Ascorbic acid, the pH is probably low ~3.5 … and if they do use Hyaluronic acid, it must work, right? Ascorbic acid also oxidates quickly, so the stability is probably not the main problem. Use some HMW and see how it goes.

    • This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by  Paprik.
  • Paprik

    Member
    February 28, 2024 at 12:04 pm in reply to: Foam stability over time

    It this to clean very dirty hands? Or regular bathroom hand soap?

    I believe the surfactant level (~10%) is too high for hands only.

    Are you sure 0.025% of HEC is doing anything? I don’t see any neutralising agent? What is the method here? For surfactant systems you would be better using HPMC.

    As Ketchito said, 2% fragrance is insane. Have you checked IFRA regulations? If your fragrance does not perform well in lower inputs, change that.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 28, 2024 at 11:42 am in reply to: w/o cream

    High HLB with addition of low HLB emulsifier is being used when making O/W emulsion. Not sure it is done when making W/O emulsions.

    Easy wash off is achieved by high HLB = water loving. It will easily mix with water and wash off.

    Low HLB does not like water = it will not mix and will not wash off.

    Prepare your oil phase - heat

    Prepare you water phase with NaCl - heat.

    Start slowly dripping water phase into oil phase under rapid mixing.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 27, 2024 at 8:16 pm in reply to: w/o cream

    We mix O/W and W/O emulsifier when we are making O/W … 2% low HLB emulsifier can help with stability and viscosity.

    You do not have usually problem to achieve viscous product in W/O?

    What makes cream easily to wash off is its HLB. The higher HLB the more water loving and it will go down the drain. The lower HLB, (the more oily it is) and it will stay with the oil loving thing - your skin. [Very simply explained].

    Make a base - oils + low HLB emulsifiers, add oil gelling agent. Heat

    Water with NaCl. Heat.

    Start dripping Water phase into Oil phase under rapid mixing.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 27, 2024 at 7:51 pm in reply to: How To Keep A Whipped Product Stable When Shipping

    Have you tried adding a gum/polymer?

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 26, 2024 at 8:16 pm in reply to: Adding oils to base formula.

    You could add them at 0.01% for marketing purposes.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 26, 2024 at 11:34 am in reply to: Liquid Germall Plus / Pregnancy

    Agree with above as long as used within regulatory limits and restrictions.

    Such as not being used in body products, aerosols, oral hygiene etc …

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 20, 2024 at 8:23 pm in reply to: Creating a tretinoin serum at home

    Totally agree with @Onur .
    Tretinoin is a prescription drug. You shouldn’t be really asking here.

    To the best of my knowledge it is hard to stabilise it. Reacts with light, oxygen, pH requirements, storage, ….

    Not sure if you have ever used products like this in the past (Retrieve) but it is quite irritating.

    Better just ask you GP for a prescription if you insist on Tretinoic acid (like I do).

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 15, 2024 at 12:59 pm in reply to: sticky leave-in hair mask

    Remove EDTA.

    There is a lot of heavy oils (Argan, Castor) and extras (Panthenol, Oat extract, Silk). That is why.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 15, 2024 at 12:18 pm in reply to: Euxyl PE 9010 questions/advice

    1. Remove chelating agent! It is anionic and will bind with your cationic surfactant. => insoluble substances / instability.

    2. Is it just for you? I assume you have short hair? Conditioners are being applied to the lengths and ends, not to the scalp.

    3. Euxyl PE 9010 is relatively easy to work with - as this is emulsion, you can add anytime. It is heat stable (up to 120° if I remember correctly), so can be added into water phase or mix properly during/after cooldown phase.

    4. You may want to support this preservative with something against mold/yeast.

    5. final pH 4 - 4.5

    6. Listen to Phil!

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 7, 2024 at 1:09 pm in reply to: Enhancing foaming in shampoo

    Please write your full formula .. with % inputs if possible.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 7, 2024 at 11:40 am in reply to: How to make a Skin Essence (Korean Beauty)?

    Skin Essence is a marketing term. You can call your product whatever you want.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 7, 2024 at 11:36 am in reply to: Replacement for Xanthan Gum (low foam) - CMC, HEC, HPMC?

    Hi,

    Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) is great for surfactant systems. It actually boost and stabilises the foam. Proper processing method is important.

    Good luck!

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 4, 2024 at 6:24 pm in reply to: Emulsifier -help

    It looks like you want to solubilise the lipid? Not really create an emulsion?

    If so, you would need to premix your essential oils in isapropanol and after mix into water.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 4, 2024 at 6:21 pm in reply to: Moisturizer piling off

    It is a lot … that is how I would describe it.

    Take it easy and reduce and/or remove some ingredients.

    My guess would be hyaluronic acid. If you are using HMW, 2% is a LOT. It basically dries and turn into flakes. If you are using good grade of Xanthan Gum I would say 0.3% is not a lot. If you are using some cheap slimy snotty grade it might not be helpful.

    2% Panthenol - again, too much. It might also feel sticky.

    If you calculate the phases, you have around ~56% water left. Try to aim higher.

  • Paprik

    Member
    January 25, 2024 at 7:01 pm in reply to: About “Practical Cosmetic Formulating” course

    @PerryT @Perry44 @OldPerry … just tagging you so you can answer 🙂

    • This reply was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by  Paprik.
  • Paprik

    Member
    February 28, 2024 at 1:11 pm in reply to: Foam stability over time

    At this input 0.025% it won’t do much I am afraid.

    Swap for HPMC, this boosts foam and also thickens the system. !! However, if I am not mistaken you cannot use glucosides nor Polysorbate. It will break it. !! Also different types require difference processing method.

    If you want a nice feel use some Polyquaternium-7.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 28, 2024 at 11:56 am in reply to: How To Keep A Whipped Product Stable When Shipping

    Ok, so you have tried one natural gum … that is it?

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 20, 2024 at 7:00 pm in reply to: Suspending agent for exfoliating agents

    HEC nor Sodium Hyaluronate do not have great suspending properties. It might work in emulsion, but for “heavy” beads/exfoliating particles it won’t suffice long term.

    Better to go with a good grade of Xanthan Gum or similar or as suggested by @ketchito carbomers.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 19, 2024 at 11:43 am in reply to: sticky leave-in hair mask

    I would remove all the heavy lipids or have them at 0.1% for marketing (Such as Argan oil). Use Dimethicone at 2% Dimethicone and see how it goes. You can also lower all those actives.

    What is your preservative?

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 16, 2024 at 1:30 am in reply to: Euxyl PE 9010 questions/advice

    Hi @Camel

    1) Yes, in non-ionic or anionic systems chelating agent support the preservative. So use it as often as possible (mind ingredient that cannot be used with it - such as copper peptides etc … )

    2) I see … that makes sense then.

    3) Yes, you do not need use glycerin/propanediol. For solubility at least. The product should be thick enough to hold the Euxyl dispersed (if not all dissolved). Starting with basic emulsion is the best approach. Usually formulators start with a looot of ingredients and fail.

    4) I would use something like Liquid Germal Plus. Or add something that helps Euxyl with its weakness against fungi/mold. I am not really preservative guy; @PhilGeis is the God.

    Your emulsion is already nice, simple, easy. Try it and see. You may need to increase waxy material to build viscosity. You can add a bit of protein; fragrance if desired and you should be fine.

    Hope this helps 🙂 Happy formulating.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 15, 2024 at 12:56 pm in reply to: Euxyl PE 9010 questions/advice

    I (or we) have noticed that too. My guess would be it is part of a blend material, so they need to list it. I would maybe understand if it is solid bar product, but in emulsion not so much.

    From chemical point of view it does not make sense to add that.

    Unless someone thinks/knows otherwise.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 12, 2024 at 11:49 am in reply to: Thickening shampoo

    I believe DrWrinkle understood that the shampoo should thicken the hair 😀

    Not that Sara is seeking advise how to thicken the shampoo.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 7, 2024 at 5:17 pm in reply to: Enhancing foaming in shampoo

    Ok, still not the best answer as I don’t know how much SLES (and other ingredients) you are adding, but I will try to answer.

    I will take Betaine as Betaine, not Cocamidopropyl Betaine? If so, you definitely can add that, it is amphoteric, adds mildness to the product and boosts the foam. You could also add some superfatting agent/non-ionic surfactant. Again, not sure what “amide” you’re using.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 6, 2024 at 1:15 pm in reply to: Moisturizer piling off

    Even with LMW HA stick with 0.x% .. if you put a lot of HA, it might draw moisture from the skin and evaporate from the surface = drier skin.

    If 10% Squalene is ok for you, I don’t see a reason why not. Drier skin types will appreciate that.

    Happy formulating!

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