Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Foam stability over time

  • Foam stability over time

    Posted by Mditty129 on February 27, 2024 at 7:58 am

    I’m making a foaming hand soap and I’m wondering if my ratio of surfactants will hold up over time

    32% - SLES (25% active)

    4% - Coco Glucoside

    2% - Cocamidopropyl Betaine

    0.025% - hydroxyethylcellulose
    4% - poly 20

    2% fragrance

    The rest is water, preservative, color

    My question is: will this ratio of surfactants hold up, or will the foam collapse over time?
    I added the HEC because it is film-forming and adds a nice feel to the foam. I am not sure if it would affect the foam performance over time.

    Paprik replied 1 month, 3 weeks ago 4 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • ketchito

    February 28, 2024 at 7:20 am

    With that amount of fragrance and polysorbate 20, I see your foam will not be as good as it could. I haven’t seen cleansing formulas with more than 1% of fragrance, the usual levelbis around 0.5%. Polysorbate will for sure impact (negatively) foam and viscosity. If you reduce your fragrance, you won’t need as much polysorbate. Also, you could increase your betaine and even add something like Cocamidde DEA.

  • Paprik

    February 28, 2024 at 12:04 pm

    It this to clean very dirty hands? Or regular bathroom hand soap?

    I believe the surfactant level (~10%) is too high for hands only.

    Are you sure 0.025% of HEC is doing anything? I don’t see any neutralising agent? What is the method here? For surfactant systems you would be better using HPMC.

    As Ketchito said, 2% fragrance is insane. Have you checked IFRA regulations? If your fragrance does not perform well in lower inputs, change that.

  • Mditty129

    February 28, 2024 at 12:24 pm

    I’m using HEC to make this foaming hand soap feel nicer; I wanted a more moisturizing feel without sacrificing foam performance or clarity. I haven’t used HPMC in a formula before, but willing to try if it is more compatible with the system.

    The product I’m making is very fragrance driven. After solubilizing with DPG, my fragrance percent comes out to around 1.3% which is still high, but… like I said, fragrance is key to the customer ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

    • Paprik

      February 28, 2024 at 1:11 pm

      At this input 0.025% it won’t do much I am afraid.

      Swap for HPMC, this boosts foam and also thickens the system. !! However, if I am not mistaken you cannot use glucosides nor Polysorbate. It will break it. !! Also different types require difference processing method.

      If you want a nice feel use some Polyquaternium-7.

      • Mditty129

        February 28, 2024 at 2:47 pm

        So I tried polyquat-7 and it made the formula cloudy. Using HEC has been successful for film forming, making a soft feel on the skin vs. no HEC in the formula, which had no conditioning on the skin

    • ketchito

      February 29, 2024 at 5:04 am

      There’s a reason why companies don’t use that much fragrance in these type of products, and it’s the risk of skin irritation/sensitization. Will you perform a clinical study in a certified lab, to check your product is safe in use?

  • Malory

    February 29, 2024 at 4:55 am

    Hello Everyone,

    What is the goal of poly 20 please?

    • Paprik

      February 29, 2024 at 7:33 pm

      Solubilise the fragrance, also as a mildness additive.

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