Forum Replies Created

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  • Yeah, I would see the main problem would be the pH. As Lactic Acid would require quite low pH to be bio-available, it can negatively effect the other ingredients. You would need to check required pH for the rest of the ingredients and then share the whole formula. 

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 2, 2021 at 6:13 pm in reply to: Question

    Hello,

    as Pattsi said, if you are in USA, anti-acne products are considered drug. Not cosmetic. 
    Australia - Cosmetic
    Canada - Drug
    China - Regular cosmetic
    EU/South Africa/ASEAN/NZ - Cosmetic
    Japan - Quasi drug
    South Korea - Cosmetic.

    So depending where you are in the world, please check everything out. 

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 2, 2021 at 2:44 am in reply to: The peeling effect of niacinamide

    Hello Faustin,

    I’m sorry, your description is kind of vague. I’m not really sure what do you mean by “when it got quite deep into the skin and I grabbed it and tried to wipe it got peeling”. 
    What % did you use? Can you also share the formula so we can see the whole thing? 

    But just couple of things about Niacinamide - Vit. B3. Water soluble, usage I would say 1-5%. @2% TEWL, helping your skin barrier, stimulates collagen production.
    @5% - reduces appearance of age spots.
    pH around 6 ( wouldn’t go under 5 and above 7 ).
    Stable in light and oxygen.
    Add to formula <70°C.

  • Paprik

    Member
    January 28, 2021 at 9:08 pm in reply to: Soaping effect in cosmetic emulsion

    Hello,

    here we go again. If you would search soaping effect in this forum, you would find plenty of topics. 
    However, … please check the video above. 
    20% lipid is quite high input. Can you effectively stabilize it? Have you conduct proper testing? If yes, try to lower the emulsifier input. 
    It may mean, that there is way too much emulsifier present and it’s not “busy” with emulsifying oils and it’s capturing air, thus soaping effect. 
    You can also add some low HLB emulsifier ( max 2-3%, otherwise it can destabilise the formula ) as glyceryl stearate citrate or similar. 

  • Paprik

    Member
    January 28, 2021 at 9:00 pm in reply to: Niacinamide B3 vitamin

    Most of the vitamins are Natural identical. Meaning, they are tots the same as in the “nature”, however they are tots synthetic, thus I think why it’s not Cosmos approved. 

  • Paprik

    Member
    January 28, 2021 at 6:25 pm in reply to: Is this too much for a hair mask formulation?

    Hi,

    when you’re using Trade names, please include INCI names. So we don’t have to google it.
    Ice Hair Restore - Cetearyl alcohol (35%), behentrimonium chloride (35%), polyquaternium 37 (30)%.

    In my opinion, it is way too many conditioning agents. Ice Hair Restore would be enough. But there would be someone more experienced with hair care products, so wait for more opinions. :)

  • Paprik

    Member
    December 10, 2020 at 6:14 pm in reply to: How do you work out the amount of emusifier?

    Hello you guys,

    THANK YOU all, for your replies! Really appreciate that. :)

     

  • Paprik

    Member
    December 3, 2020 at 6:15 pm in reply to: Soft particles in a lotion

    Hey,

    yeah, I think the same thing. Coconut butter. The input is quite high and its melting point is quite low. Even in balms etc I wouldn’t go over 10% with most butters. 

  • Paprik

    Member
    November 29, 2020 at 6:05 pm in reply to: Serum dries up with a layer?

    Hello,

    I’m not sure, but maybe the combination of XG and HEC? 
    I usually don’t use these in serums. I simply thicken it with higher input of HA. 

  • Paprik

    Member
    November 25, 2020 at 12:25 am in reply to: What preservatives do you use most often?

    PhilGeis said:

    Paprik - if you can tke the smell, with 9010 - mayte some Benzoate if the pH workand EDTA.  What’s the product

    Ok, will search it up, thank you! ( And yes, I use EDTA ). 
    Usually it’s a cream or serum. So pH around 5-5.5 if that suits my actives. But also trying to formulate facial cleansers now, where the smell doesn’t bother me at all. It’s mostly on leave on products. 

  • Paprik

    Member
    November 24, 2020 at 9:07 pm in reply to: What preservatives do you use most often?

    PhilGeis said:

    Paprik said:

    I’m really struggling with getting a nice preservative. 
    I’ve started with Liquid Germall Plus, but I’m afraid some of my customers won’t and don’t like the fact, that it’s formaldehyde donor. 
    So was looking for something different. I found Euxyl PE 9010. I like it, but the smell is just nah. A new one I tried was Geogard Ultra TM (Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Calcium Gluconate), it’s a powder, seems to be super nice and easy to use, but it messes up with my pH. So I tried Microcare DB, seems also nice, it’s EcoCert, BUT the smell! So it’s hard to find one without any smell, “scary” names like Parabens or Formaldehyde and won’t mess up with my products. 

    But as for me, I’m using Liquid Germall Plus the most. 
    Also thinking about Naticide - but I know there’s a smell to it. And it’s expensive. 

    What do you think about Potassium Sorbate & Sodium Benzoate? 

    Certainly a wide range of anticipated levels of efficacy in your suggestions - mostly on the poor side.   Not knowing the product category -I’ll offer that you should assemble a combination of  preservatives (with a chelator like EDTA)  that SHOULD work and confirm with PET.  None of the sytems you desceibed are likely to be as effective as Germall Plus esp. vs Gram negative bacteria.  Organic acids require an appropriately acidic pH and are weak preservatives, esp re. Gram negative bacteria.  Natacide is a combination of unidentified (unknown?) “natural” materials.  Even if effective - you’re offered no assurance that batch to batch compostions will be identical to that you qualified. 
    Why not use phenoxyethanol in combination?

    Thank you for your reply. 
    I am not surprised, that Germall + would be the best. However, if ppl find out, it’s formaldehyde release, they are like WHOOOOOW, slow down. Even those the input is really small and I believe it’s safe. 

    Phenoxyethanol - what would you combine it with? I’m using Euxyl PE  9010, but I’m kind of annoyed by its smell.

    I’m starting my Diploma in formulating soon, so hopefully I’ll know more and better soon :)

  • Paprik

    Member
    November 19, 2020 at 2:06 am in reply to: What preservatives do you use most often?

    I’m really struggling with getting a nice preservative. 
    I’ve started with Liquid Germall Plus, but I’m afraid some of my customers won’t and don’t like the fact, that it’s formaldehyde donor. 
    So was looking for something different. I found Euxyl PE 9010. I like it, but the smell is just nah. A new one I tried was Geogard Ultra TM (Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Calcium Gluconate), it’s a powder, seems to be super nice and easy to use, but it messes up with my pH. So I tried Microcare DB, seems also nice, it’s EcoCert, BUT the smell! So it’s hard to find one without any smell, “scary” names like Parabens or Formaldehyde and won’t mess up with my products. 

    But as for me, I’m using Liquid Germall Plus the most. 
    Also thinking about Naticide - but I know there’s a smell to it. And it’s expensive. 

    What do you think about Potassium Sorbate & Sodium Benzoate? 

  • Paprik

    Member
    November 10, 2020 at 6:03 pm in reply to: homogenizer or stirrer for small business starting out?

    Hello guys,

    I’m actually using FSH-2A. So I can share some thoughts. 
    It is not bad. When I bought it, I wasn’t really happy. I thought, it’s introducing way too much air into my product. However, I learnt how to work with it. I don’t even use it on the highest speeed [It also gets warm very fast if used at max speed, so I’m scared to not burn it :D ] I’ve also made a really small batches. As 70 grams I think. Cleaning is easy, but annoying [probably with every homogen-head]. 
    The heads are short tho. So I’ve head some problem, where tall profile beaker wasn’t the best for it. And the small head is not useful for me at all. I think I’ve used it twice and put it aside. :) 
    Let me know if you would have any questions about that. :)

  • Paprik

    Member
    October 27, 2020 at 6:12 pm in reply to: Practical Cosmetic Formulating Course

    Hi Paigemsdavis,

    I have started in my kitchen. Bought some stainless steel bowls, whisk, spatula, beakers, scale, ingredients and practiced, practiced, practiced. :)
    Although, I wasn’t selling or giving this to my friends. I was afraid of contamination.
    Once I had enough equipment ( I bought overhead mixer, homogenizer, better scale and waaaay more ingredients ) I have changed one of my small room into my small lab :) 

  • Paprik

    Member
    October 7, 2020 at 11:59 pm in reply to: Isethionates

    ozgirl said:

    Here is some information regarding formulating with SLMI that might help you with the SCMI.

    Thank you for that :) Haven’t seen this leaflet yet, but found different ones. 

  • Paprik

    Member
    October 7, 2020 at 11:09 pm in reply to: Isethionates

    What was the formula or just the ingredients you used?? 

    That isethionate would be fine! It’s usually what you mix it with & pH that turn it opaque or white!! 
    Did you use any aloe Vera? 

    Hello Dr.,

    thank you for your reply. Frankly, I was just trying to mix water, SCMI and CAPB. I just wanted to see how it goes. From top of my head, I used 8% SCMI and 4% CAPB. I did not even bother with any preservative. (I’m aware it may have an impact later on the formula.)

    Next day I was trying add Glycerin and I adjusted SCMI to 10% and kept CAPB at 4%. Glycerin 5%. It barely thickened at all. So I guess I will need to play with the inputs of surfactants. 
    And also check and adjust the pH. Althought, I would never imagine, it would go lower than 6 by itself. 

  • Paprik

    Member
    October 6, 2020 at 6:02 pm in reply to: Isethionates

    Agate said:

    I would also be interested in the difference between SLMI and SCMI. From the little information I’ve been able to find I believe they are fairly similar but don’t really know.

    I don’t know about the slimy consistency, but what I do know is that the opaque opalescence of SLMI in water completely goes at a lower pH of around 5.

    Hello Agate, 

    thank you for your reply. Yeah, if I’m looking for SCMI, I always get results for SLMI. So I would also guess they must be very similar. Hopefully someone else will have more info about that :)

    Hmm, so you reckon it would be the pH? I will try to increase it and see. :) Thanks for the tip!

  • Paprik

    Member
    October 5, 2020 at 7:53 pm in reply to: How sunscreen protects us from rays

    Hello, 

    what sunscreens are you talking about? 
    Inorganic (physical) or Organic (chemical)? 

    Organic absorbs the rays and converts them into heat. 
    Inorganic does the same, but also reflects about 10%. 

  • Paprik

    Member
    September 8, 2020 at 10:24 pm in reply to: Face serum formula

    Hello,

    hopefully my contribution will help little bit. 
    About the pH - I think pH 3 is nearly self-preserving. Plus you have added preservative, so I think the high amount of PG is not really necessary. 

    15% LAC is great, I’m using 20% myself. Although, some ppl may experience irritation, so starting with lower is better - Timeless Vit. C serum is 20% + E + Ferulic acid .. they say it may arrive cloudy, but it will turn clear over time. Check maybe their ingredient list and compare? :) 

    Happy Formulating!

  • Paprik

    Member
    August 23, 2020 at 7:52 am in reply to: Sodium cocoyl isethionate

    There’s an easy answer. SCI isn’t supposed to be used at aqueous products at any significant percentage to make it primary surfactant. It will precepitate.

    Thank you for your reply. I really appreciate that.

    Would you please recommend alternative to that? Or what would be the maximum of SCI in the formula to have is stable? 

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