Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating w/o cream

  • w/o cream

    Posted by Rufiano on February 23, 2024 at 1:44 am

    I am in the project of making W/O cream. One of the characteristics I want is that the cream is resistant to water but easily washed off when rinsed. My main problem is phase separation during accelerated stability test. I used a combination of cithrol gms 40 and glyceryl stearate for the body cream, then also used a combination of plurol oleique cc 497 and span 80 for the rinse-off to make it water resistant but easily to wash off. But the cream is not stable (phase separation). I would like to ask what should I do to make the cream stable? please help me, thank you:)

    Xuxu replied 1 month, 1 week ago 6 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • Onur

    February 24, 2024 at 10:00 am

    Glyceryl Stearate is not a strong emulsifier on its own, usually paired with PEG-100 Stearate to make a true emulsifier. Cetearyl alcohol in the oil phase would also be useful to stabilize emulsions, and it’s rinse-friendly. I’d try some Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, it’s very powerful even in tiny amounts for oil-heavy systems.

  • ketchito

    February 27, 2024 at 6:08 am

    W/O emulsions are inherently resistant to water, at least more than O/W. I’m not an expert on W/O emulsions, but I know that manufacturing process (especially the low addition) is key, as well as to choose the right emulsifiers and adding salt.

  • chemicalmatt

    February 27, 2024 at 11:59 am

    This does not make sense: you want water resistance but water affinity at same time? Ok, let’s leave that one aside for now. @Onur is right in that you are using the components for a barely stable o/w emulsion, co-emulsifiers all, so it is not surprising you have an unstable invert system. Onur’s helpful additions will only work in a o/w emulsion system, so be advised there too. Bottom line: you need more study on invert emulsions my friend. Also, the usually coherent and always helpful @ketchito meant “slow” addition not “low” - a typo no doubt.

    • ketchito

      February 28, 2024 at 7:31 am

      Thank you @chemicalmatt 🤓. Indeed, it was a typo (one of the mechanical ones -damn keyboard-, not the brain ones, which I also have a lot of, hehe).

  • Rufiano

    February 27, 2024 at 8:05 pm

    If w/o emulsifier and o/w emulsifier are used together, viscocity will increase and make the cream is getting harden, isn’t it? and it will make cream easy to wash (not water resistant). I’ve tried to add salt in water phase but still separate, anyone can please help? Anyway thank you for your answer

  • Paprik

    February 27, 2024 at 8:16 pm

    We mix O/W and W/O emulsifier when we are making O/W … 2% low HLB emulsifier can help with stability and viscosity.

    You do not have usually problem to achieve viscous product in W/O?

    What makes cream easily to wash off is its HLB. The higher HLB the more water loving and it will go down the drain. The lower HLB, (the more oily it is) and it will stay with the oil loving thing - your skin. [Very simply explained].

    Make a base - oils + low HLB emulsifiers, add oil gelling agent. Heat

    Water with NaCl. Heat.

    Start dripping Water phase into Oil phase under rapid mixing.

  • Paprik

    February 28, 2024 at 11:42 am

    High HLB with addition of low HLB emulsifier is being used when making O/W emulsion. Not sure it is done when making W/O emulsions.

    Easy wash off is achieved by high HLB = water loving. It will easily mix with water and wash off.

    Low HLB does not like water = it will not mix and will not wash off.

    Prepare your oil phase - heat

    Prepare you water phase with NaCl - heat.

    Start slowly dripping water phase into oil phase under rapid mixing.

  • Xuxu

    March 16, 2024 at 12:31 pm

    Sorry, I can’t find where to ask my question. I heard that fatty alcohols should not be added to w/o emulsions. It is better to use waxes instead of alcohols. Since fatty alcohols will destabilize LGN formation. Where can I find confirmation?

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