ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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@Zink there were a couple of threads here discussing ceramides. There’s no proof that they work unfortunately (I am saying it literally one hour after ordering my third bottle of ceramides). But logically (assuming that they do work) you want them on the top your skin.
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Polysorbate 80 is very polar on its own and it needs very polar ester to mix properly. You can’t achieve the same with vegetable oils because they are not polar enough. Try to find alkyl benzoate, it’s usually very cheap. It’s also a very versatile ingredient, so if you find it get a lot (I don’t buy less than 1 lt).
Sucragel is sticky and isn’t easy processable. I personally don’t like it. Please post ingredients list for that product. There are many ways to thicken oil, it all depends on what you are trying to achieve. From the top of my head without knowing much about your benchmark product - cera bellina.
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Of course not. How would you know what is there?
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Germall plus doesn’t get deactivated by highly ethoxylated compounds.
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It works initially but the separate.
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@ggpetrov, you can use GMS SE for face. It’s totally safe and is used in many products(although I personally can’t find my way around it). What you read is probably is due to the fact it’s anionic, which is still ok, as it’s not as irritating as soap.
Regarding silicones, I have that dimethicone 1000 from gracefruit and yes, you can totally use it in face products. It’s just not the most elegant one. But if the question is no silicone at all or dimethicone 1000, I would always go for dimethicone 1000. There are places where you can find silicones in Europe. For example glamourcosmetics.it, use google chrome translate function to navigate it. Great variety of silicones. I like dimethicone 100 and below for face products. The cyclomethicone sold by gracefruit is 60% D5 and 40% D6. glamourcosmetics sells pure D5. I wouldn’t say that the blend is bad, but I like when it’s more volatile, so I can use it both for face, hair and makeup.
That’s euxyl pe 9010. I would say use 1%. It’s safe and it won’t affect viscosity. I use it a lot because it’s relatively reliable and cheap. I prefer parabens though. Keep in mind although it’s broad spectrum it’s weak on mold, which means, don’t use too much bug food (hydrosoles, aloe, proteins, clay, botanical powders, or anything that can be classified as food).
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Reverse engineering takes me, a hobbyist, 3-7 attempts depending on the complexity of the product (provided that I have all ingredients on hand). It takes 2 hours to prepare one sample. So doing the math it’s 6-14 hours of time. I assume professional will figure it out faster but I would still assume it’s minimum 4 hours of work.
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1) Where’s the list of ingredients
2) Do you realize that this type of request isn’t for free? -
@EVchem, I think makingcosmetics sell repackaged Evonik, the one sold by Lotioncfarter is made in china and ingredients listed in different order (makincosmetics’ one is identical to Evonik)
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Sepimax Zen is certainly better than other thickeners but it only works to a certain point. Too much salt will turn it to water as well.
Xanthan could be an option but it still will be runny. Hydrocolloids derived of acrylic acid don’t do well with electrolytes. -
BTMS-50. And reduce oils. All they do is make hair greasy and weight them down.
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You need ‘natural’ version of TEA, is that your question? Have you considered simple NaOH?
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Try Arlacel 165. It works with a high amount of electrolytes. It worked pretty much everywhere.
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I figured out in an empiric way that usually 2-3% of water is being lost during heating, which depends on the shape of your beaker. So I just add more water initially.
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Try 6-7%. If you add more it will be soaping.
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You don’t know whether it is working well. It might look ok and then separate in three months, especially in a hot and humid place like Texas. You also don’t know whether your preservation system is adequate for the ingredients you added. The fact there’s no visible mold on the top doesn’t guarantee it’s safety. You need to run accelerated stability at 40C (assessing change of color, texture, pH) , you need to run preservative efficacy test and preservative challenge test as a minimum. And preferably you should do it in the same packaging in which you are going to sell.
Check the pinned thread, there must be chemists here from your state.
Also might be useful to post your formula here for initial review, so that you know if there are obvious errors before you pay for tests. -
If cetearyl alcohol caused sweating I assume that you had a lot of non polar materials in that product (microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, polyethylene, hydrocarbons ). Regarding HLB, watch out not to make water in oil after water is introduced, it means don’t use w/o emulsifiers only.
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Another thing you can do, is swapping Stearic acid to 2% of cetyl alcohol and reducing Shea butter to 2%. You can also add 0.3% of xanthan. All these together should make it more elegant.
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What I found so far, is some information on that it’s more effective at alkaline pH. But I would rather keep it stable.
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You don’t want to approach suppliers and manufacture yourself as a small business (economies of scale). You need a manufacturer that would do it for you. Also, have you run all required tests? Is your formula stable and safe for a consumer?
Regarding ULprospector, they won’t approve your account until you show them an invoice as a proof that your business is active. -
Thank you @Gunther, it’s very useful. I know sodium metabisulfite is used in wine which I assume is rather acidic. I will decrease the pH below 4.
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Also regarding high HLB and oils, I have been working on blooming bath oil (which is anhydrous product) for a while and came to a conclusion that a combination of Polysorbate 80 (high hlb) with high polarity esters is the best from the stability standpoint. They don’t separate even at 20% of poly 80. So, polarity is the key.
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Lipsticks is a different world. Sweating is happening due to incompatible polarities of waxes and oils not their HLB. Anhydrous scrubs are much easier to make. You don’t actually want to use only low HLB in them because if you do, once water added you will get water resistant water in oil emulsion, that will be very difficult to wash off
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Knock out aloe and the extract and see how it is. If no issues, add them back at ‘claim’ amounts (less than 0.5%).