formulating an anti-aging serum..Help! I tried everything!
I think i tried a million combinations and i still don’t seem to get to a stable emulsion.
I want to make a face serum/cream that will be put in an airless bottle.
The formula is like this:
Phase A:Mimosa extract: 0,05%
milk thistle extract: 0,05%
dandelion extract: 0,05%
snow algae extract: 0,5%
kaempferia galanga extract: 0,05%Olive leaf extract: 0,3%
ginseng extract: 0,3%Rosemary acid: 0,3%Resveratol:0,1%
tremella fuciformis extract: 0,5%
rhodiola extract: 0,05%(all extracts are powders)Distilled water: 67.75%Glycerine 2%…………………..Phase BSqualane %Grapeseed oil: 5%
Apricot oil: 2%
almond oil: 2%
bakuchiol: 0,5%Phase C:Vitamin E: 0.1%Ferulic acid 0.1%
Cosgard: 0,8%Oils for perfume (patchouli, ylang ylang, bergamot) : 0,3%
I have tried the following emulsifiers with this base formula:
1.Emulsan 3% combined with cetearyl alcohol: 2% (the final result was ok-ish until i put the 0,5% citric acid which made the cream a bit more fluid)
method: I heat both phases and i put the oil over water, at cool down i add phase C
2. Cetearyl alcohol: 2%+cetearyl glucoside:1%+xanthan gum: 0,2% (the result was more fluid than the first one but in 1 hour it changed a bit color, it got darker)
method: I heat both phases and i put the oil over water, after 3 min of stearing i put the xanthan gum over and at cool down i add phase C
3.Cetyl alcohol:3%+sucrose stearate 4% (the cream resulted was dense and nice until i put 1% citric acid to obtain a ph of 5. It just became very watery and it has small white gatherings of material in it)
method: I heat both phases and i put the water over oil, at cool down i add phase C
I really don’t understand what i am doing wrong. I don’t know if the emulsifiers i’m putting in are at good% or why am i not getting a stable emulsion.
Please let me know if you have any ideea and you can help me out
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