Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Anhydrous Scrub keeps seeping

  • Anhydrous Scrub keeps seeping

    Posted by EVchem on October 3, 2019 at 2:50 pm

    Hey all,

    I’ve never done an anhydrous scrub before and I keep getting syneresis/seeping of the oil in the oven after only a couple days. 
    Here’s where I’m at currently (everything is wt%):

    Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides            qs
    Castor Oil                                         10
    Polyhydroxystearic Acid                    3
    Candellila Wax                                  3
    TiO2                                                 2
    Sodium Bicarb                                  33
    Silica                                                0.75
    Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate  6
    Tocopherol                                       0.25

    I’m heating to ~80 and then mixing while cooling, adding the TiO2, Bicarb, Silica, Tocopherol on the cooldown. I can’t tell if the issue is percentages, ingredient types, or processing. Any input is appreciated!

    PeiHoong replied 4 years, 6 months ago 4 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    October 3, 2019 at 4:54 pm

    It was my understanding that a little bit of seeping is normal for such products.

  • EVchem

    October 4, 2019 at 11:58 am

    yes update: i may be an idiot.

    So they were showing some seeping but when I let the samples cool down from the oven the oil seemed to go back into the scrub. Room temperature sample hasn’t shown any issues yet. Wasn’t sure what I was looking for so I think I panicked prematurely

  • tanelise

    October 4, 2019 at 12:06 pm

    @EVchem been there, done that.

  • ngarayeva001

    October 4, 2019 at 12:34 pm

    Here is my formula:

    INCI %
    Almond oil 61.90%
    alcohol and PEG-20 Stearate
    PEG-40 HCO 10.00%
    Stearic acid 10.00%
    Tocopherol 0.10%
    blend of
    essential oils
    Phenoxy and EHG 0.50%

    Plus some abrasive particles (sugar or walnut/almond shells) qs.
    I made a huge tub and it has been sitting in the bathroom forever (7 months plus for sure). Now, if it gets too hot, I sometimes notice a little bit of seeping, but when it’s colder it gets solid again.

  • PeiHoong

    October 7, 2019 at 5:11 am

    Haven’t done anhydrous scrub before, looking at the formula @ngarayeva001 and @EVchem provided, it contains high HLB thickener in the anhydrous formulation. Just wonder is that fine, don’t these affect the stability? 
    I have such question because last time I was formulating a lipstick which is anhydrous as well and I used cetearyl alcohol but end up the formulation had sweating issue. So wonder do we need to take this into consideration while formulating?

    Thank you in advance for any sharing.

  • EVchem

    October 7, 2019 at 12:20 pm

    @PeiHoong  I included the Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate to help with the wash off of the scrub.  It’s not super high HLB (~11 I think, and castor oils required HLB is 14)
    Also I’m no expert but I think the emulsifier helps bring together these oils that have differing polarities and prevents me from seeing syneresis at room temperature.

    I’ve never made lipsticks before but the sweating can probably come from a variety of causes. You are trying to make a crystalline-like structure so less room for error. 

  • ngarayeva001

    October 7, 2019 at 7:54 pm

    Lipsticks is a different world. Sweating is happening due to incompatible polarities of waxes and oils not their HLB.  Anhydrous scrubs are much easier to make. You don’t actually want to use only low HLB in them because if you do, once water added you will get water resistant water in oil emulsion, that will be very difficult to wash off

  • ngarayeva001

    October 7, 2019 at 7:59 pm

    Also regarding high HLB and oils, I have been working on blooming bath oil (which is anhydrous product) for a while and came to a conclusion that a combination of Polysorbate 80 (high hlb) with high polarity esters is the best from the stability standpoint. They don’t separate even at 20% of poly 80. So, polarity is the key.

  • PeiHoong

    October 8, 2019 at 12:53 am

    @EVchem @ngarayeva001 Thank you very much for the input. 

    @EVchem oh…but it doesn’t seem to be the case because when I included the cetearyl alcohal, it caused sweating in my case….it’s the one not compatible with others…
    @ngarayeva001 regarding to your comment, is that mean for any anhydrous rinse off, we should include ONLY high HLB emulsifier but not low HLB for easy rinse off? Do I get it right? 

  • ngarayeva001

    October 8, 2019 at 6:08 am

    If cetearyl alcohol caused sweating I assume that you had a lot of non polar materials in that product (microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, polyethylene, hydrocarbons ). Regarding HLB, watch out not to make water in oil after water is introduced, it means don’t use w/o emulsifiers only.

  • PeiHoong

    October 9, 2019 at 12:51 am

    @ngarayeva001  Thank you very much for your precious information! it helps a lot~~thank you!  :)

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