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Glyceryl stearate SE | Silicones | Phenoxyethanol
Hi, I would like to emerge my three questions in one thread. So, my first question is concerned about Glyceryl stearate SE. I recently made an excellent face moisturizer for myself, by using Sucrose stearate as a primary emulsifier and GSC SE as coemulsifier and thickener. Recently i’ve read at the russian DYI forum, that GSC SE is not suitable for creams and lotions, because of the alcali soap in it. I tried to find some information about that, but i didn’t find anything. All the information related with this emulsifier is that it is safe for use even in a baby products.My second question is related with the silicones. I would like to include cyclomethicone and eventually dimethicone in my lotion to improve the glide. I live in Europe and i can buy the silicones from Gracefruit.co.uk, but they sell only Dimethicone 1000. As I understand this type of Dimethicone is the cheapest. My question is : can I use it in my face lotion without worring for my health?My third question is again for the safety, but this time for the preservative. I purchased from Alexmo cosmetic preservative blend from Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin. I am planning to use it at concetration of 0.5% in my facial moisturizer. The reason for choosing this preservative is that it is not Ph dependent, and I guess it wont affect over stabillity and viscosity of my lotion.
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9 Replies
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@ggpetrov, you can use GMS SE for face. It’s totally safe and is used in many products(although I personally can’t find my way around it). What you read is probably is due to the fact it’s anionic, which is still ok, as it’s not as irritating as soap.
Regarding silicones, I have that dimethicone 1000 from gracefruit and yes, you can totally use it in face products. It’s just not the most elegant one. But if the question is no silicone at all or dimethicone 1000, I would always go for dimethicone 1000. There are places where you can find silicones in Europe. For example glamourcosmetics.it, use google chrome translate function to navigate it. Great variety of silicones. I like dimethicone 100 and below for face products. The cyclomethicone sold by gracefruit is 60% D5 and 40% D6. glamourcosmetics sells pure D5. I wouldn’t say that the blend is bad, but I like when it’s more volatile, so I can use it both for face, hair and makeup.
That’s euxyl pe 9010. I would say use 1%. It’s safe and it won’t affect viscosity. I use it a lot because it’s relatively reliable and cheap. I prefer parabens though. Keep in mind although it’s broad spectrum it’s weak on mold, which means, don’t use too much bug food (hydrosoles, aloe, proteins, clay, botanical powders, or anything that can be classified as food).
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Hi ngarayeva001, and thanks for the answers. I am replying a bit late, but I wanted to test the ingredients before to give my feedback. Recently I have purchased some ingredients from Gracefruit, including that Dimethicone 1000 and Cyclomethicone. Also I have purchased Inulin for the first time. I’ve checked that site Glamour cosmetic, and yeah you are right, there’s a lot of ingredients, but also the shipping price is brutal. The cost to my country Bulgaria, is about 19 euro, which is too much for me at the moment.Anyway, recently I am having a great success with my formulas. An ingredients that have been difficult for me, now I can cope easily with them. In my last face moisturizer I’ve tried to add the silicones i’ve bought recently. Below I will post my formula, and I hope you can leave your comment about it.Water - 68.5%Glicerine - 3%Sorbitol - 3%Allantoin - 0.5%Inulin (Inutec) - 3%PolyAquol 2W (Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Stearyl Alcohol) - 2.5%Niacin - 2%In this lotion I’ve put the emulsifier at the water phaseBehenyl alcohol - 2%Cetyl Palmitate - 2%Myristyl Myristate - 1%Caprillic / Capric triglyceride - 2%Gosulin IL ( Isoamyl Laurate, Isoamyl Cocoate) - 3%Dimethicone 1000 - 2% at the hot oil phaseCool down phase :Sodium Lactate - 1.5%Sodium PCA - 1.5%Phenoxyethanol & ethylhexylglycerin - 1%Cyclomethicone - 2%Natural PO - Alges Marine from Alexmo cosmetic.Now the impression. The texture of the lotion is fine, with medium viscosity, but compact not fluffy. The slip and glide of the lotion are amazing. Even a small amount of the lotion covers a big area of the skin. Though the lotion absorbs immediately, the skin is moist end ellastic. There is a kind of velvety effect over the skin, but not greasy and shiny.I’ve noticed a problem. If the lotion touch the eyes, there’s a kind of irritation which is inconvenient. It’s not a pain, but I am wondering why is that irritation. I guess it’s related with the silicones, or not?
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Bravo, Petrev, for both formulating a good product and taking ngaryaeva001’s advice. I agree 1000cst dimethicone is probably the most versatile. Silicone has no irritation potential at all; it is the niacin giving you that tinge of irritation, my friend. DEL it and you’ll be better off.
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Yes, the shipping cost is brutal. I am in the UK, so I have to pay for shipping and customs fees when buying ingredients from the US.
So, if you are in Europe, you can have a look at these suppliers:https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/gb - they have a lot! You can find a huge variety of rare ingredients there, including water in silicone emulsifiers, makeup ingredients, nice selection of silicones. No focus on natural nonsense, they have everything. They do ship to Bulgaria, although might be pricy.
https://www.aliacura.de/ - this one is more on the “natural” end but they sell great surfactants. I think it’s the only place in Europe where you can find Iselux (sulfate-free super mild surfactant).
And here is this gem that comes with some issues:
https://xn—-utbcjbgv0e.com.ua/It is a Ukrainian store. They have a huge number of rare ingredients and the price is more affordable than the majority of EU and US stores. Here is a problem.. they operate in a very old fashioned “Russian” way. You can not just order online, you have to wait for the email from them after you placed an order. The email comes in Russian and explains the price and shipment options. They don’t speak any English at all. They understood my typing of Russian words using English letters and I managed to place an order. You can pay using PayPal. Then you take a print screen and send to them as proof of payment and they ship your order. It is a legit company, and I got a couple of great silicones from them. I don’t really understand why they operate in this way, but I am sharing this with you because I know that some people in Bulgaria speak Russian, so you might have friends who will help you to order. It’s a pain but they have very interesting ingredients.
You can use the translate function of Google chrome to navigate all these sites.
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Hi ngarayeva00, actually I understand the Russian language perfectly. I visit some Russian and Ukrainian DIY forums, but I am not quite satisfied. There’s a lot of opinions there, but mostly false or just a talking without a meaning at all. It’s very interesting, but I have the impression that most of the russian homecrafters, buy incredients from a french site called Aroma Zone.Anyway, I’ve checked the site you’ve mentioned, and must to say that it’s impressive. I am curious how do you make a purchase there, I mean which way of delivery you choose, and for example how much do you pay for delivery?
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Hello, i dont have much time to read answers but i will answer the 2 of your questions.gs se glyceryl stearate glyceryl mono stearate i use that for my lotions and i know this is safe and stabil.
you can choose various emoiltments and moisturizers.
For my opinion you should not to use phenoxyethanol ethylhexylglyceryn for your own lotion. You ought to use it for marketted products. -
I noticed that Russian aren’t into ‘natural’ stuff yet, so you can find a huge variety of ingredients from Russian and Ukrainian suppliers. I am very much into water in silicone emulsions now. These aren’t easy to make and I must admit I managed to make only two successful prototypes since April (I can’t guarantee these are stable but at least a couple of months of stability so far). So these ingredients aren’t popular in DIY community and not available from repackagers. I am so happy that I can now buy them now that I am ready to pay for shipping. I ordered several silicones with total weight a little over 2kg. Shipment to London was 42 EUR through Ukrainian post. I decided to order it to another country that I was visiting as it was cheaper (30 something), but next time I am ordering to London. I understand 42 is very high but Bulgaria is much closer to Ukraine, so I hope it’s more affordable.
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I kind of agree
Alkaline emulsifiers can be irritating to the skin, at least for some people.In my opinion you’d better switch to other nonionic or even cationic emulsifiers that can withstand a mildly acidic formulation.
Better yet, find a ready made cream making commercial emulsifier blend.
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It’s funny, but i’ve read about the potential danger of using a GS SE at one of the russian DIY forums. Even more, some people there say that the cationic emulsifiers and those with high HLB are dangerous for use in products that stay on the skin. I’ve searched a lot for an information that proves that, but didn’t find anything. From my personal experience, which isn’t so big, the GS SE is one of my favourite emulsfiers and co emulsifiers. My skin looks great, feels great, and there’s no sign of irritation at all. To be honest i am using this emulsifier as co emulsifier and thickener mainly, and every time I am not dissapointed.
The last time I was using it, was in a lotion made with Bergamuls as a primary emulsifier and GS SE as secondary. Also i’ve tried it in combinations with Sucrose stearate, Emulprot and Cetearyl Glucoside.
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