[ngarayeva001]

You don’t need all of this for oil cleanser. Oil cleanser can be made as simple as 15% of Polysorbate 80 and 85% of c12-15 alkyl benzoate. Or olivem 300 and oil (haven’t tried, don’t know the right proportion but it would work). And you need to do a lot of reading on preservatives.

[ngarayeva001]

Polyquaternium 10 is like ‘carbomer’ or xanthan gum. There’s a huge variety of them and they can be drastically different.

[ngarayeva001]

Salt is a must for any w/o. It will separate otherwise. Mg Stearate is a stabiliser of the oil phase. It can be replaced by a wax.

[ngarayeva001]

This is a good one https://www.springer.com/gb/book/9789401050074?token=cyber20spr&utm_campaign=3_jpp1963_gbp_shopping_cyber20spr&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt7n1qrOr7QIVs2DmCh0IYg80EAQYASABEgJOJvD_BwE#otherversion=9780216932241 and Harry’s cosmetology 8th edition 

[ngarayeva001]

@ketchito, I wish it was like this everywhere! I was puzzled when started dabbling with foundations. I figured out soon enough that the concentration of titanium dioxide in any foundation is definitely above 1% (can be higher than10% depending on complexion and desired coverage), but it’s always listed below fragrance! Now to make it more confusing, if that foundation has TiO2 as a sunscreen, you will see it on the top as an active ingredient(as per FDA rules actives are shown separately of general LOI).

[ngarayeva001]

You need to post the entire formula and a process. Right now it’s impossible to say anything or give you constructive advice. Several points to mention:

1) In general W/Os do not “like” high oil phase (yes sounds counterintuitive but true)
2) Generally speaking, the smaller droplets the thinner is w/o emulsion, so apply high shear and keep oil phase above 25% (which you already did) so that droplets are round
3) ZnO w/o sunscreens are extremely hard to stabilise, are you using a lot of waxes? Maybe that’s the reason why it’s thick (although if you reduce it might separate)
4) As a caveat, I am not an expert in sunscreens by any means,  but based on my knowledge gathered from webinars and some suppliers info your product might not have the SPF you want.

Croda’s coated zinc oxide CZ-300 gives an  SPF 1 per 1% of zinc oxide (just as an example). Assuming you are using treated and properly dispersed ZnO, and follow all other rules, your SPF is still low (unless you have other sun blockers).
I know it’s not absolutely precise but run your formula through BASF simulator (assume z-cote as your zinc). I have a suspicion will hit not more than 15 with 20% of Zn alone.

[ngarayeva001]

@emma1985 you can use both at max. These two don’t have same components. You shouldn’t be mixing penonip and euxyl pe9010 at max, as you will go beyond the limit with phenoxyethanol (unless you add less of each and that’s a grey area unless you going to get it through preservative efficacy test) but I am not aware of any reasons why you shouldn’t mix phenonip and germall. Just make sure you add phenonip to heated waterphase and germall to cool down.

[ngarayeva001]

@emma1985, I am with you. Tried all of it (mizon’s serums with placenta and snail secretion filtrate was a gift but since I already had it, I tried). Not a vegan, but there’s something about animal products that gross me out. I absolutely recognize that tallow and lard make good soap and lanolin is a good old ingredient with great barrier properties but I can’t put it on my face ????. Beeswax is as far as I go because there’s no good replacement. Btw, if anyone interested this is a great replacement for lard: https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/25251/557991/SOFTISAN-378
Sold by MakingCosmetics and formulator sample shop.
and this is a proper replacement for lanolin 
https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/25251/558032/SOFTISAN-649

sold by https://www.alexmo-cosmetics.de/Softlanae-649-veganer-Lanolin-Ersatz

[ngarayeva001]

@Graillotion, I sometimes mix sepinov and sepimax zen. As @emma1985 said sepimaz zen is wiggly, but it has a good slip (I would say even too much). So mixing them together can give nice sensorial results (obviously it’s subjective). Aristoflex AvC goes well with sodium carbomer (not my discovery, noticed in many Chanel and some No7 products). I also like combination of Pemulen Ez4U (sold by Trulux and has very strong stabilising properties) and ultrez 30. Don’t use it too often because I prefer preneutralised polymers for some reason.

[ngarayeva001]

I am with @Pharma on this, I would clearly need antidepressants if I had to use just one emulsifier. 

Well since my beloved GMS+PEG-100 Stearate had been mentioned already, ceteareth-20 isn’t bad if paired with GMS. Weirdly enough I want to mention  TEA stearate because it can emulsify a lot of oil (provided it’s the only emulsifier available). From polymeric, although aristoflex avc is my favorite when it comes to rheology, if I only could keep one then Sepinov EMT 10. And for w/si Dow Corning’s formulation aid 5225. But I respond to this the same way I would respond about food, if I could only keep one type of food I wouldn’t choose my favorite (but junk) but something that is sustainable in a long run.

[ngarayeva001]

@EVchem I admit, it was cheating indeed  ????

@Perry, I read about the process as I’ve got curious too. The snails are allowed to crawl on a mesh like fabric and slime dripping down to a collector. For some reasons many people I know love korean products with slime..

[ngarayeva001]

Oh wait I forgot about Goop! They have anti vampire spray with: black tourmaline, lapis lazuli, ruby, labradorite, bloodstone, aqua aura, black onyx, garnet, pyrite and nuummite; reiki, sound waves, moonlight, love, reiki charged crystals. Everyone knows you need garlic to scare vampires away. I don’t know what they were thinking!

[ngarayeva001]

La Prairie: gold, caviar, white caviar, malachite powder and of course the £1,200 generic moisturizer (made of basic ingredients such as coco caprylate, sepinov emt10, butylene glycol etc) with platinum.

[ngarayeva001]

Good luck and let us know how it goes

[ngarayeva001]

I make pretty generic glycolic acid toner and it has the same effect (ph 3.7). I thought it’s because of humectants (I add 7% of either butylene glycol or glycerin).

[ngarayeva001]

Since phenonip and germall have different components you can use both if you want a product to be bulletproof. I often do this (germall goes to cool down phase). Regarding lip products, I don’t think germall can be incorporated into an anhydrous balm but if it’s an emulsion you can try. Regarding selling, I think that if you decide to sell you should prioritize safety as much as you can. I assume you buy ingredients from repackagers not from suppliers directly. Ingredients sold by repackagers are compromised from the day one. Big companies can use Euxyl PE 9010 and run PET many times to see if it works (and for them it does) but the same 9010 won’t work for someone who is making at home. Don’t get me wrong, germall is a decent preservative, but have a look into combining it with phenonip in some products.

[ngarayeva001]

@emma1985, phenonip is a blend of several parabens and phenoxyethanol and needs heating to reduce possibility of some of the parabens migration to oil phase. It’s generally quite robust. Germall has some limitations: heat sensitive, not allowed under some regulations for applications on large areas, and if I am not wrong there are some limitations for spray products. Germall is great with surfactants (doesn’t mess up viscosity) and in formulations where transparency is important.

[ngarayeva001]

Does it feel moisturizing right away or after some time?

[ngarayeva001]

@emma1985, thank you for saying it. There is a lot of black and white thinking when it comes to skincare. Even oily skin can benefit from emollients. It is true that skin tends to get drier as we age, but the same person’s skin has different needs throughout the year. I can use cold cream on my face in winter (I am clearly not young anymore), but a the same time I can get away with using a water-based serum with no oil in summer.

[ngarayeva001]

I am not discouraging anyone from experimenting. At the end of the day it’s not a sunscreen or some low ph acid peel where you have no room for error. It’s good to know how to blend your own. It’s a cool feeling to know you can recreate color of human skin by mixing 4 colours that look nothing near to human skin. Just be prepared for wasting some materials and time.

[ngarayeva001]

@Shams , 
‘Perfect’ is a very vague definition. Perfect for what? Try to make a w/si foundation with untreated oxides and get it through a stability test. You are inviting a variety of problems by doing this. Untreated oxides will break the emulsion after a while, red oxide will start bleeding  out of the emulsion, they will precipitate, separate in all possible ways and forms. You probably can make not too terrible anhydrous balm with such blend but it won’t be close to commercial quality. Maybe ok for personal use if you aren’t picky. Pigments are tricky beasts.

[ngarayeva001]

You need USP grade white mineral oil. 

[ngarayeva001]

Just get it from a reasonable supplier. Regarding Vaseline, it’s not an ingredient, it’s a brand famous for packaging petrolatum for the end consumer. Calling petrolatum Vaseline is the same as calling photo copying machine Xerox. You can get a jar of Vaseline from Amazon and use it in your formula, it’s a pure petrolatum anyway (probably not the cheapest deal though).

[ngarayeva001]

Silicon is a chemical element (Si) which is the second most abundant element on planet Earth. To get pure Si you need to heat SiO2 aka silicon dioxide aka silica aka plain sant to something like 2,000C (don’t quote me on this), and then after application of some chemistry magic it turns into a broad class of wonderful polymers with a terrible reputation called siliconEs. So technically it’s a silicon plus some other stuff.

[ngarayeva001]

@klangridge, I spent so much time and effort trying to make it myself that I think I have to at least share my experience with someone who is in the beginning of this journey. I understand that you want to mix from the scratch for the sake of experience. Have a look at what is included in creasperse except for the pigments. I recall it’s polyxydroxystearic acid and some of the hectorites. Try to make your own liquid blend from coated dry pigments (I am sure there’s coated TiO2 on tkb, not sure about oxides) and dispersing agents before adding it to your concealer (making all at once is challenging) Dry pigments can be mixed together in a coffee grinder as @lewhitak suggested above. I noticed that anhydrous concealers are a little more forgiving when it comes to quality of pigment.