Cosmetic Science Talk

Cosmetic Science discussion form. For people who want for formulate cosmetics and get advice from other formulators around the world.

Home Cosmetic Science Talk Advanced Questions What preservatives do you use most often?

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 10, 2020 at 6:15 am

    @ZleyHoldings Cathon CG and Euxyl

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 10, 2020 at 7:01 am

    Phenonip and germall plus (depends on the product)

  • Perry

    Member
    November 10, 2020 at 2:36 pm

    DMDM Hydantoin

  • Belassi

    Member
    November 10, 2020 at 4:37 pm

    Sodium benzoate for hair products, KEM NAT for skin products.

  • Pharma

    Member
    November 10, 2020 at 7:18 pm
    - Methyl- & Propylparaben or sodium benzoate & potassium sorbate for pharmaceutical preparations (made on prescription at the pharmacy)
    - Verstatil PC (phenoxyethanol & caprylyl glycol) for trial formulations
    - Dermosoft 1388 eco (sodium levulinate & sodium anisate) plus glyceryl caprylate plus pentylene glycol plus Magnolia Extract 98 for everything else. Stupid thing is, that cocktail seems to negatively affect viscosity and even break certain emulsions.
    Obviously, I also add a chelate (phytic acid or EDTA) and antioxidants (different ones, depending on requirements).
  • ZleyHoldings

    Member
    November 11, 2020 at 2:37 am

    Fekher said:

    @ZleyHoldings Cathon CG and Euxyl

    Thank You

  • ZleyHoldings

    Member
    November 11, 2020 at 2:37 am

    Phenonip and germall plus (depends on the product)

    Thank You

  • ZleyHoldings

    Member
    November 11, 2020 at 2:38 am

    Perry said:

    DMDM Hydantoin

    Thank You :p

  • ZleyHoldings

    Member
    November 11, 2020 at 2:38 am

    Belassi said:

    Sodium benzoate for hair products, KEM NAT for skin products.

    Thank You.

  • ZleyHoldings

    Member
    November 11, 2020 at 2:39 am

    Pharma said:

    - Methyl- & Propylparaben or sodium benzoate & potassium sorbate for pharmaceutical preparations (made on prescription at the pharmacy)
    - Verstatil PC (phenoxyethanol & caprylyl glycol) for trial formulations
    - Dermosoft 1388 eco (sodium levulinate & sodium anisate) plus glyceryl caprylate plus pentylene glycol plus Magnolia Extract 98 for everything else. Stupid thing is, that cocktail seems to negatively affect viscosity and even break certain emulsions.
    Obviously, I also add a chelate (phytic acid or EDTA) and antioxidants (different ones, depending on requirements).

    That’s very detailed, thank you.

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 12, 2020 at 9:34 pm

    @ZleyHoldings you are welcome. 

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    November 12, 2020 at 10:47 pm
    in a previous job I’d use DMDM hydantoin or isothiazolinones for rinse-off products, or Euxyl PE9010 for leave-on products, plus DMDM hydantoin if there were a lot of suspended solids in the product, e.g. clays
    as it stands, I am restricted to Dermosoft 1388 and GMCY, keeping the pH below 6 if there are suspended solids in the product; propanediol at 10-20% helps as well
    in fairness, it works well; thanks to a robust preservative system, and a reliable supply of clean sterilised mains water, it’s very rare for us to have a micro count on any of our products
  • ZleyHoldings

    Member
    November 13, 2020 at 2:36 am

    Bill_Toge said:

    in a previous job I’d use DMDM hydantoin or isothiazolinones for rinse-off products, or Euxyl PE9010 for leave-on products, plus DMDM hydantoin if there were a lot of suspended solids in the product, e.g. clays
    as it stands, I am restricted to Dermosoft 1388 and GMCY, keeping the pH below 6 if there are suspended solids in the product; propanediol at 10-20% helps as well
    in fairness, it works well; thanks to a robust preservative system, and a reliable supply of clean sterilised mains water, it’s very rare for us to have a micro count on any of our products

    Thanks, but our country has started to reduce the use of DMDM hydantoin and isothiazolinones. Because we feel they can be harmful to the body. Now we are more and more starting to use safer preservatives like chlorphenesin, p-hydroxyacetophenone, and Caprylhydroxamic acid.

  • Perry

    Member
    November 13, 2020 at 4:31 pm

    @ZleyHoldings - While you may “feel” DMDM and isothiazolinones can be harmful to the body, this is not based on scientific evidence. These ingredients have been proven to be safe for use in the way they are used in cosmetics. 

    If you base your preservative choices on feelings, I’m afraid chlorphenesin won’t make the cut with some consumers.  For example, https://www.annmariegianni.com/ingredient-watch-list-chlorphenesin-the-synthetic-preservative-that-can-cause-dermatitis-and-infant-respiratory-distress/

    Neither will Carpylhydroxamic acid since it is causing “an epidemic of allergic contact dermatitis” -  https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28421670/

    Traditional preservatives can be used safely. If formulators avoid them and buy into “fear marketing” there aren’t going to be any effective preservatives left.

  • zetein

    Member
    November 15, 2020 at 12:37 am

    Why p-hydroxyacetophenone isn’t considered a “para-ben” ? lol :D :D :D

  • Pharma

    Member
    November 15, 2020 at 9:10 am

    zetein said:

    Why p-hydroxyacetophenone isn’t considered a “para-ben” ? lol :D :D :D

    Because it’s not a benzoic acid derivative.
    Or are you simply making bad chemistry jokes because all the good ones Argon? Maybe start with more basic stuff, like jokes about sodium hydroxide?
    :P
  • ZleyHoldings

    Member
    November 17, 2020 at 5:00 am

    Perry said:

    @ZleyHoldings - While you may “feel” DMDM and isothiazolinones can be harmful to the body, this is not based on scientific evidence. These ingredients have been proven to be safe for use in the way they are used in cosmetics. 

    If you base your preservative choices on feelings, I’m afraid chlorphenesin won’t make the cut with some consumers.  For example, https://www.annmariegianni.com/ingredient-watch-list-chlorphenesin-the-synthetic-preservative-that-can-cause-dermatitis-and-infant-respiratory-distress/

    Neither will Carpylhydroxamic acid since it is causing “an epidemic of allergic contact dermatitis” -  https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28421670/

    Traditional preservatives can be used safely. If formulators avoid them and buy into “fear marketing” there aren’t going to be any effective preservatives left.

    Okay, thanks. I’ll check the information carefully.

  • emma1985

    Member
    November 18, 2020 at 7:05 pm

    I only use Liquid Germall Plus. 

  • emma1985

    Member
    November 18, 2020 at 7:07 pm

    Phenonip and germall plus (depends on the product)

    Which is more robust for o/w emulsions? Thank you.

  • suswang8

    Member
    November 18, 2020 at 10:39 pm

    Spectrastat G2-N or Euxyl K903

  • Paprik

    Member
    November 19, 2020 at 2:06 am

    I’m really struggling with getting a nice preservative. 
    I’ve started with Liquid Germall Plus, but I’m afraid some of my customers won’t and don’t like the fact, that it’s formaldehyde donor. 
    So was looking for something different. I found Euxyl PE 9010. I like it, but the smell is just nah. A new one I tried was Geogard Ultra TM (Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Calcium Gluconate), it’s a powder, seems to be super nice and easy to use, but it messes up with my pH. So I tried Microcare DB, seems also nice, it’s EcoCert, BUT the smell! So it’s hard to find one without any smell, “scary” names like Parabens or Formaldehyde and won’t mess up with my products. 

    But as for me, I’m using Liquid Germall Plus the most. 
    Also thinking about Naticide - but I know there’s a smell to it. And it’s expensive. 

    What do you think about Potassium Sorbate & Sodium Benzoate? 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 20, 2020 at 10:35 pm

    @emma1985, phenonip is a blend of several parabens and phenoxyethanol and needs heating to reduce possibility of some of the parabens migration to oil phase. It’s generally quite robust. Germall has some limitations: heat sensitive, not allowed under some regulations for applications on large areas, and if I am not wrong there are some limitations for spray products. Germall is great with surfactants (doesn’t mess up viscosity) and in formulations where transparency is important.

  • emma1985

    Member
    November 20, 2020 at 10:47 pm

    @emma1985, phenonip is a blend of several parabens and phenoxyethanol and needs heating to reduce possibility of some of the parabens migration to oil phase. It’s generally quite robust. Germall has some limitations: heat sensitive, not allowed under some regulations for applications on large areas, and if I am not wrong there are some limitations for spray products. Germall is great with surfactants (doesn’t mess up viscosity) and in formulations where transparency is important.

    Thank you! I have worshipped at the altar of Germall Plus for so many years but when I read that parabens are (kind of? More?) bulletproof I thought about switching. I want to start selling on a small scale in the future so it’s really important to me that I have extremely robust preservation. I like Germall Plus because I can use it in both water based products (toners and serums,) emulsions and cold process emulsions. It seems phenonip can’t believe used in water based products or cold processed products. It seems Germall Plus is more versatile. Think I’ll stick with it. Thank you so much for the feedback. 

    Do you have any thoughts on the use of Germall Plus in lip products? I’m thinking about making a lip cream (my lips like a lot of water/hydration in addition to moisture and occlusion.). I think Germall Plus is allowed in lip products in the US but not in the EU. This concerns me a bit. I think Geogard Ect is lip safe but I did a little research and it seems it’s not as effective and broad spectrum as Germall Plus.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 21, 2020 at 8:35 am

    Since phenonip and germall have different components you can use both if you want a product to be bulletproof. I often do this (germall goes to cool down phase). Regarding lip products, I don’t think germall can be incorporated into an anhydrous balm but if it’s an emulsion you can try. Regarding selling, I think that if you decide to sell you should prioritize safety as much as you can. I assume you buy ingredients from repackagers not from suppliers directly. Ingredients sold by repackagers are compromised from the day one. Big companies can use Euxyl PE 9010 and run PET many times to see if it works (and for them it does) but the same 9010 won’t work for someone who is making at home. Don’t get me wrong, germall is a decent preservative, but have a look into combining it with phenonip in some products.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    November 21, 2020 at 2:14 pm

    Glyceryl caprylate and caprylhydroxamic acid

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